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Discussion in 'Moto Bellissima: All Other Dualsports' started by young skywalker, Jan 8, 2006.
Yep that's it !
Thank you. I just can't imagine him not scratching those rims horribly. And from my own experience, whatever cautions / rim protectors I ever used, I somehow always end up one day scratching the rims.
I removed my Mitas E-07's and mounted my Trailmax Missions with it, no marks or scratches.
It's all in the technique and practice makes perfect.
+1 to heat and cold.
I've had a fair bit of practice in nearly 10 years of owning a Ulysses.
For removal, I heat the hub and use a blind hole bearing puller.
For installation, I freeze the bearings for 24 hrs. I then use a heat gun to heat the hubs hot like a griddle, and apply a scant amount of copper anti-seize to the bore in the last minute of applying heat.
Most of the time, the chilled bearing drops right to where it should be (to the seat on first side, spacer on the other). If any tapping down is required, it goes quick and easy.
"You" were. Bullets too.
Good discussion on the tires in the video and makes even more comfortable with my choice of the Dunlop Missions for my intended use. I'm still not happy about weight increase particularly since I'm putting them on my V85 and the 79 HP Guzzi claims for the bike feel a bit like Shetlands as opposed to Kentucky throughbreds. While the HP on the V85 is adequate I really am not crazy about making them work any harder. I'm going to convert the bike to tubeless via the 3M tape method when I put the Dunlops on so at least I get rid of the weight of the tubes.
I have never left my bearing in freezer that long, but other than that I do mine the same way.
When I replaced the steering bearing and left overnight in freezer it didn't help me at all. Meaning I had to hammer them hard to get in the races. Not sure if that's any easier for wheel bearings..
I agree, you "practiced" meaning sometime a while back, you did scratch *some* rims! All kidding aside, after reviewing it in many videos, it appears to me the best possible setup is the NOMAR, for someone that doesn't have metal crafting/welding ability to concoct something better cheaper.
If you find a way to make me pay for your motorhome gas, then I'm the biggest sucker there is! Anyway, according to the bureaucracy it seems our beloved motorcyles and any fun machine with internal combustion engines will be soon (in the next few decades) unavailable to buy new anymore in places like EU and who knows where else..
No scratches, I used cut up milk jugs as rim protectors. Carry several in my tool kit on the bike. Don't need them with the No Mar bar in my shop, but its handy when using regular tire irons on the road or trail.
I like the idea of bearing puller - it pulls straight rather than sideways like when you'd hit with a drift. Drift works too but the puller is cleaner and I think helps prevent damage to the hub.
I wonder how much heat is useful, and how much can the hub take before being affected.
24 hrs is a bit arbitrary - I'm sure overnight is plenty. My extra bearings are stored in a zip-lock in the freezer at the ready, just in case a bearing doesn't pass inspection at tire change. Buells can be a bit hard on wheel bearings. I'd like to try chilling the bearings with dry ice sometime and see how well that works. There are videos on YouTube of folks using liquid nitrogen to shrink bearings, etc. to fit.
Aluminum's thermal expansion rate is about 2x that of steel. Convenient for us shade-tree mechanics. From what I've read, °275F to °300F is all one needs, and I don't think there's a great danger of unintentionally overheating the hub with an electric heat gun. Interesting discussion here: Practical Machinist: Safe temp to heat 6061 alum for interference fit?
Well, sucks for the Puppies.
Especially if someone ignores the Torque figure for the Rear Axle.
A good friend of mine has a Buell Ulysses, he came on my Euro Trip last year.
He'd had a new rear Tyre fitted a few days before we left, and the guy that did it had over-torqued the rear Axle.
The Bearings lasted until we were approx 50 miles from our first Night-stop, on an Autoroute.
He knew they were on the way out when he arrived in Portsmouth for the Ferry the previous evening, there was rusty staining coming from the Bearing on the left.
Luckily, the guy we were staying with in France is an old work Colleague, with a fully equipped Workshop, he runs a guided Trail-Riding company, and does senior MX.
The Bearings were so f**ked, I had to weld a bolt across the Outer Race (all that was left intact), and drift it out against that.
Thank you for sharing all this! This phrase caught my eye "a bearing doesn't pass inspection at tire change"..
After having done numerous wheel changes on the Stelvio, all I really do is stick my finger in the bearing and hand spin it left/right and make sure it feels smooth and cannot detect any play. Then I try and pack more waterproof grease by pressing it against the gap between the seal and bearing. That's as far as my expertise goes, and I usually declare "nothing wrong". Exception being a once upon a time BMW rear drive main bearing where I could notice and feel without any doubts that was going bad.
I would love to learn more tricks from your experience, especially how do you assess the state of a bearing.
Wow, I could be wrong but that to me looks like plain neglect! But might, as you imply also a design issue.
Such is life!! My daily highlights are now getting out of bed and feeling alive. I never used to pay any attention to any of that, it was all "normal". I'd jump out with whatever thing/dream/project I had in mind. Now they all seem almost "Deja Vu" which I realize isn't a good thing... What am I doing wrong? What about you?
Those milk jugs are kind of thin, but I have used them too in the past. Y'all must be much better at this as I now avoid doing this tire replacement at all costs. Which really equates to a 15 minute drive with the wheels & tires in my car trunk, wait - kick some tires around the chopper shop - pay seventeen dollars per wheel, then drive back with freshly mounted and balanced tires - not scratched! Last time I did tires was on my GS. And I usually had a heck of a time putting enough air fast enough in the beads to pop the front tourances. When I started using tire sealant/goop that helped but remains proof on my garage's dalmatian ceiling art work now..