"Must Do" mods for a new KLR?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by SWriverstone, Jul 6, 2006.

  1. SWriverstone

    SWriverstone Woodpecker

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2006
    Oddometer:
    289
    Location:
    Morgantown, West Virginia USA
    Hi All---I just bought a new KLR, and am psyched to start getting off the pavement!

    I've been studying up in a variety of places on mods/replacements/maintenance, and I'm curious to know what folks here think are "must do's" on a new bike.

    I won't be doing any hardcore dirtbiking...most of my offroading will consist of fire roads in national forests, that type of thing (plus plenty of highway miles to get to the good fire roads).

    Here's what I've done so far (nothing huge)...

    - cranked the rear preload and rebound damping up to 2 on both (I weigh 220lbs)...should I crank it up more? Or get a stiffer spring?

    - gone over most bolts/fasteners and added blue loctite (on an early ride I lost 2 of the 3 windscreen fasteners! So I replaced those with serious bolts and nylon locknuts...)

    - raised the license plate mount (no more tire scraping!)

    - ordered a centerstand from Dual-Star
    - ordered an LED taillight from Dual-Star
    - ordered a low-profile magnetic drain plug from Dual-Star
    - ordered replacement vibration-damped mirrors
    - ordered the service manual, supplement, Clymer manual, and service DVD
    - ordered a Wolfman Explorer tankbag
    - ordered Caribou luggage (Pelican cases)

    I know about the doohickey mod and plan to do that (I found someone local who has done it and offered to help).

    Any other suggestions on "gotta-do's?" (e.g. should I go ahead and get replacement pegs? Should I do the carb air intake mod for rain/water crossings, etc.? Or how about a front fork clamp? And is an aluminum skid plate and engine/rad guards a must-have?)

    No, I'm not rich! I'd just rather spend all the money at once to make it a functional, bombproof bike (rather than nickel-and-dime myself to death over the next year!).

    Thanks!
    Scott
    #1
  2. a16tony

    a16tony Been here awhile

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    Scott while your shopping Dual-Star, the Progressive fork springs and renthal bar add great comfort. Then the Corbin seat.
    #2
  3. JohnTM

    JohnTM I suck toes

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    #3
  4. EagleFeather

    EagleFeather Flyin' High

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    I just bought a 2004 KLR from a good friend and fellow ADV'er. It came with both the Corbin seat and the stock seat.

    I'd be willing to sell you the corbin seat if your interested. Its in 'like new' condition. The stock seat seems to fit me better.
    #4
  5. timdog

    timdog a.k.a. Josh

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    You said you are not rich, so I would skip the fork brace and the skid plate, (unless you are riding through a lot of rocks). I would do the T-vent carb mod, because it is easy and cheap.
    #5
  6. Krabill

    Krabill Long timer

    Joined:
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    Tulsa, OK
    In order of importance (imo, of course)

    Doohicky
    T-mod/carb fixes (air screw, shim needle, remove snorkle)
    Progressive fork springs with either 15 or 20wt fork oil
    DR650 footpegs
    714 grips
    Skidplate (if you're going to be riding in a rough/rocky/root filled area)

    . . . then ride the hell out of it.
    #6
  7. SWriverstone

    SWriverstone Woodpecker

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Morgantown, West Virginia USA
    Thanks for the suggestions all---and EagleFeather, I appreciate the offer---but so far I'm pretty happy with the stock seat (though I haven't ridden all day on it yet, only a hundred miles or so, and it seems fine). If my butt starts bumming after some long rides, I'll look you up in case you still have the Corbin!

    Scott
    #7
  8. Right Turn Clyde

    Right Turn Clyde Pongo pygmaeus Supporter

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    I have most of what was mentioned both others. I would actually suggest RaceTech Gold emulators in the forks before doing Progressive springs. Got those, and like them (w/ 15w plus 15psi in the tubes--I weight 190), but would do the emulators first in hindsight.

    Other mods? Fill with gas and ride, man!:D

    s
    #8
  9. Right Turn Clyde

    Right Turn Clyde Pongo pygmaeus Supporter

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    PM sent :deal
    #9
  10. Rustic

    Rustic Star Benchwarmer

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    We weigh about the same and I bet you'll like it better with the rear preload cranked up to 4 or 5. Quicker steering, less bottoming out.

    I bet you'll like aluminum handlebars, too. Renthal or ProTaper SE. They're way stronger and transfer a little less vibe.

    Pump up your tires for longer wear... maybe 36R/32F psi for the street. Air 'em back down for off-pavement for better traction.

    Krabill made a good bang-for-the-buck list. Do those as you can. :thumb
    #10
  11. mogwai

    mogwai humorless prick

    Joined:
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    I recommend that you ride it as-is for 1000 miles, then decide what doesn't fit or suit youy. Many mods are personal preference or aimed at a style of riding, not mandatory.
    #11
  12. dirty dave

    dirty dave Banned

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    ive put 15k on mine and have done no mods. half of it rough off-road.save your money for gas and tires. everything works well enough for me. i dont spend money just to spice it up. i think hard about " do i really need this" specially if your on a budget. ride it ,learn it, then upgrade it.
    #12
  13. KLRriderTX

    KLRriderTX Adventurer

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    Austin Texas
    Doohickie...

    Then fill it up with gas and go....
    #13
  14. Fat Toney

    Fat Toney Long timer

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    Location:
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    doohicky now...mine broke off with the spring and is floating around in my bike somewhere...8k on the '05...looked like it has been missing for a while...then the skid plate...I ran into some big rocks on Handcock pass at Westfest on Friday...I thought for sure a few of those rocks were going to crack the case or something.
    #14
  15. GB

    GB . Administrator Super Moderator Super Supporter

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    67,936
    Doohickey

    Stainless steel brake lines

    The rest is optional.
    #15
  16. dirtconnector

    dirtconnector erythematic nucha

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    shed out back, WNC
    clean oilsrceen after a couple of oil changes. It collects alot of factory assembly debris. If your doin da doo go ahead and get the gasket for the other side (where the oil screen lives).
    #16
  17. KTMRyder

    KTMRyder throttle jockey

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    Doohicky first, second thing is radiator guards.
    I saw a bike dropped at walking speed bust a radiator.
    he was stranded and we had to wait for his wife to come and get him in the truck. brand new bike too.
    radiators are expensive!

    Third on my list would be a skidplate.
    #17
  18. rufus

    rufus We're burning daylight...

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    Russel steel braided brake lines. My brakes went from pitiful to below average. Dot 5.1 fluid moves them up another notch to slightly below average. Semi-metallic pads are next.....average? I can only hope.
    #18
  19. rufus

    rufus We're burning daylight...

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    Less than $100 for both brake lines.
    #19
  20. Right Turn Clyde

    Right Turn Clyde Pongo pygmaeus Supporter

    Joined:
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    906
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    Bridgerland by Green Canyon
    Ok, gotta chime in here. Why spend all that $$$ on a hidden metal bit to spare the rad? Spend $130 more and get an IMS tank that protects the rad and gives more range. And makes the bike uglier. :D

    On the brakes, try the Galfer Green pads ft and blacks rr IF you are dissatisfied w/ the braking. If that does not do it then jump to the 320mm rotor ($200 at klr650.com AND they give you a braided cable).

    Screw the whole incrementalism approach to all this. Costs waaaay too much and you just get "incremental"gains. Just go big and do it right. :thumb

    s
    #20