"Must Do" mods for a new KLR?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by SWriverstone, Jul 6, 2006.

  1. Subcanis

    Subcanis Dental Floss Tycoon

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    sorry for the slight highjack, but you elaborate for me? (yes, Im a noobish idiot)
    #21
  2. COBAUM

    COBAUM How Did I Get Here?

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    Protection!

    Start with good riding gear (you can use it on any bike). Then a good tool kit with spare tube and pump. Nothing worse than getting stranded in the middle of nowhere. Then either the "nerf" radiator guards or plasic tank. I have dropped mine a few times on rocky trails and the radiator is so easy to bust. John mentioned TPI and although I love thier prices and service, I easily bent the hell out of my radiator guard on Hancock Pass at Westfest. Try Dual star or Happy trail. These mods should keep you on the road in most conditions. Then figure out what tires best serve your needs.

    The Doo - your call. Mine was in perfect shape, but the spring was broke.
    #22
  3. on2wheels52

    on2wheels52 Long timer

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    I put on a taller windshield in the winter.
    Added the wide rear carrier from ebay, now have something to bungie to. Also gives some rear turnsignal protection.
    Jim
    #23
  4. Krabill

    Krabill Long timer

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    Here's a write up on the T mod. I used a Y connector and I think it works a little bit better, though.

    http://www.klr650.marknet.us/tmod.html

    To do the shim, air screw, and snorkel -

    Remove:
    Side plastics
    Seat
    Tank
    Choke lever

    Push the choke cable back in as far as you can

    Loosen the clamps on either side of the carb

    Rotate the carb enough to get at the 4 screws on top of the black plastic cap and carefully remove them.

    Pull off the plastic cap and the spring very carefully without upsetting the rubber diaphram under it.

    Get some tweezers and pull out the white plastic thing down inside the top of the carb. Again . . . leave the rubber diaphram right where it is.

    Lift the needle out of the white plastic thing you just removed, place an aluminum #4 washer (available at Home Depot/Lowes/etc) on the needle, then drop it back into the white plastic holder.

    I've read some people have problems getting the rubber diaphram back in the carb, but if you're careful enough you don't have to take it out at all (I didn't).

    Once the carb top is back together, but still loose in its mounts, rotate it the other way so you can get at the bottom.

    There is a plug on the bottom that needs removed. CAREFULLLY drill a small hole in the plug. Then screw a drywall screw into the hole you just made and use some pliers to yank it out.

    Now you should be able to see the air screw. Carefully turn it in until it is just lightly seated, then back it out about 1 3/4 turns.

    Yank the rubber grommet insert thingy (snorkel) out of the airbox inlet hole and put everything back together using locktite on every screw you replace.

    Good luck.
    #24
  5. Subcanis

    Subcanis Dental Floss Tycoon

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    Wow, thanks! Is this pretty universal? I live at 5200' elev... should I modify any of the carb steps?
    #25
  6. Krabill

    Krabill Long timer

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    No. The cv carb does a good job of self-compensating for elevation. The only change might be to keep the air screw at 1 1/2 instead of 1 3/4, but either should get you pretty close.
    #26
  7. lastmanout

    lastmanout Been here awhile

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    I would do the 'Dohicky" and upgrade the bolts on the rear subframe, footpegs, brake reservoir,etc. Check out "Murph's" on the net. Good service, good parts for KLR and Concours. Oh, grease your rear shock linkage and steering head bearings. A new shift lever (aftermarket) to replace the peanut-butter alloy original. Good luck-have a ball.:D
    #27
  8. holycaveman

    holycaveman Long timer

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    Put good tension on the doohicky, grease the odo drive, check all nuts and bots for tightness.

    And I will personally warrenty it for 10,000 miles. At the end of the 10,000, just do it again:D

    Keep it simple, keep it fun. and Ride, ride , ride!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
    #28
  9. Esteban

    Esteban Banned

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    Things needed to improve the KLR 650

    Here is what I recommend for a strong bullet proof off road capable and on road comfortable KLR for all seasons.

    Bike - 1996 or newer KLR 650 all post 96s are the same except for color.

    Make sure the counter balancer chain tensioner and spring has been upgraded. Often called the "doohickey" this upgraded milled piece and spring cost about $30 and takes 1.5 hours to install.

    I like the flatter wider Corbin seat. $250 when I bought.

    Serrated pegs so feet do not slip off in mud, fine on highway too.
    Install hardened footpeg bolts from Ace Hardware

    Progressive fork springs in front suspension $60 will firm up and improve the ride. I use 450 cc of 10W in each leg for my 175 lb weight.

    Progressive rear shock and spring $400 ( the most expensive upgrade but worth it if you ride aggressively)

    Install 4 hardened subframe bolts also available from Ace Hardware

    Dynojet needle for carb slide. Have to buy entire kit fro $60 but worth it. Do air box mods and install a #136 main jet. I get 50mpg + and it runs better.
    This set up has worked well for me from sea level to 13,000 feet.

    Stay with a stock or aftermarket FOAM airfilter for off road. Make sure it is well oiled. Do not use a K&N (metal screen & oiled cotton) as fine dust will enter your engine.

    I like heated Hot Grips with external wires so bark busters can be installed also.

    I cut about 1" from each side of stock handlebars which are too wide for my preference. Bike fits in tighter places now. Beware not to cut too much and then have problem fitting grips, switches and controls. Use a pipe cutter for best results.

    Bark-buster aluminum lever guards and UFO plastic covers $80 for all, These strong guards will prevent lever breakage and the large covers work great for warmth and hand protection. Fine in hot weather too.

    Original 2 piece battery vent hose should be replaced by a single piece vinyl tube to help prevent subframe corrosion. Hose should terminate a few inches below lower shock linkage.

    Do the "T" mod to carb float bowl vent. Allows bike to run in water up to the tail pipe.

    Disconnect clutch and side stand cut-out switches to prevent problems on the trail.

    I like the Kenda 270 rear $45 because it lasts for 3500 under my hard use and works fine on the street and off road. I currently run a TKC 80 on the front $80. Tires are very personal, but if they wear too soon on long trips you could be stuck in middle of nowhere with no tread.
    To help prevent pinch flats do not run under 20 psi up front and 24 psi in rear. This is dependent on terrain, speed and tires though. In Colorado I often run higher psi.

    I carry a used spare clutch, front brake, and gear shift levers. Strap out of the way onto the bike with zip ties.

    Change the cast aluminum rear brake pedal hanger/bracket for the milled billet stronger one from DualStar. Keep original as a spare. I have shattered two original ones of these until I bought the milled one. $45

    I needed to modify rear license plate bracket and inner fender to avoid contact with rear wheel. Put plate on top of rear fender, and cut off inner fender. about a 1-2 hour job to do nicely.

    DID Gold X-Ring chain - $79 for the 120 link size,
    I think the KLR is 112 links but check.

    Heavy duty aluminum skid plate. I got mine from Baja Designs, but all the different brands I have seen are made in the same factory from their appearance. $60

    Bevel the square edged right side kill switch to avoid it catching on tank bag or other items and breaking out. Easy job that can save you lots of grief in the wilds. I know from experience.

    I put HD clutch springs in mine - $8 to prevent slippage. Nobody else I know did though. It does make clutch harder at lever, but engagement is more positive.

    Magnet oil drain plug. File oil drain plug head to insure that is doe not protrude below skid plate.

    I like the new Wolfman Tank bag ask Eric (Wolfman), he knows which one he sold me.

    Aerostich large tank panniers $115. Maybe not for big guys with long legs, but for us 5"8" guys these give great wind protection and good load carrying.

    A good source for advice and expert on KLRs is Fred at Arrowhead Motorsports in Moab. Ron Ayers is good for parts for reasonable prices.

    Hope that helps, Steve
    #29
  10. Max Kool

    Max Kool Xtankteam™

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    The list of "must do" mods has changed into a pile of "what are all the mods that are absolutely available/possible for this bike". :lol3
    #30
  11. rick danger

    rick danger The further adventures of

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    Install progressive fork springs. They are bullet proof
    #31
  12. holycaveman

    holycaveman Long timer

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    Hmmm..... There are just too many pieces there. Did you install the progressivies on top of the stock ones?? :lol3

    Just kiddn, I have seen others do that.
    #32
  13. Ironhead

    Ironhead But Itsa Dry Heat

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    That had to be one hell of a landing:eek1 :eek1
    #33
  14. rick danger

    rick danger The further adventures of

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    17" front wheel. Must do!!
    #34
  15. Esteban

    Esteban Banned

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    Actually Max,

    You do not have to do anything to the bike, but to make it work better for rough offroad Colorado type rides the bulk of these are MUST DO.

    There are far more mods available than on my 3 year running list.

    Steve
    #35
  16. Max Kool

    Max Kool Xtankteam™

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    I understand that Esteban.

    I was reading this thread and it just made me smile. Very recognizable.
    #36