Mutilating an offroader into some sort of scrambler

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Dino de Laurentiis, Jan 7, 2018.

  1. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    So dabbling with small things here and there. I’ve run the DP heavy duty clutch (friction and steel plates) from ProCycle since I installed the 790 kit (which I’ve only run a a few thousand miles). I’ve had some issues with the clutch slipping though so I’ve put the stock clutch back in, but I’m keeping the DP springs. Will be a while before I’ll see what difference that’ll make.

    I’ve also gotten started on some custom lever guards. They’re made out of a 5 mm alu strip, which I’ve drilled a series of holes in. I then bent it to shape in the vice (used a large steel tube as a template). Some small mis-bends, but I surprised myself with how straight it turned out considering I did it free hand. I’m using the mounting hardware from a pair of of the shelf bark busters.

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    The idea is to fit a bunch of amber flat top LEDs to use as turn signals. Unfortunately I didn’t realise until afterwards that I needed to countersink the holes to get all the way in, so had to awkwardly set it up in the drill press. Some holes I simply couldn’t get to. Good thing I only did one side so far...

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    Here it is with a few of the LEDs in place. Just need to figure a good way to connect them up. I’m planning to cover the LED rear ends with a strip of polycarbonate with a slot milled into it. I think the neatest way to supply power to them is with a small SMD 3,3 V step down voltage regulator and a resistor and then wire them in parallel.

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    #41
  2. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Unfortunately, haven't had time to work on the bike for the past weeks, but I found this video which encompasses pretty much what I want this build to be like. Not like I can ride like this, but still...

    #42
  3. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Today i made a spring 38 mm shorter. Took like three hours...

    I started by cutting the spring one coil “above” the length I was aiming for, which I had approximately marked with masking tape.

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    ...and cut off. I used the cut off part to practice getting the end flat.


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    With the help of a freshly purchased oxy-acetylene torch, I bent the end roughly into shape. It’s not a perfectly finished bend, but good enough.

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    I then grinded it flat with a small bench disc sander. Stock on the left, my shortened version on the right. Not so bad, eh?

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    #43
    Pezz_gs, buzzword, Te Hopo and 2 others like this.
  4. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    I was aiming for 40 mm, but got 38, which is fine. I’ll also be removing two of the preload spacers so a total of 48 mm of fork travel removed. Still to be done is the internal spacer for the cartridge slider, but I don’t have the tool to take the cartridge apart. Is it ok to just put a screwdriver through the bottom of the cartridge? Don’t want to twist the fairly thin alu tube.

    Btw, I’m a bit surprised my stuff comes together, considering my workspace usually looks like this...

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    #44
    flinders_72 likes this.
  5. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    I cut the spring in the second forkleg today, took like 15 min total bow that I had the procedure worked out. It went fine. However, I still need to come up with a way to disassemble the cartridge and and cartridge rod to install the 50 mm lowering spacer. I considered just pushing a steel rod through the holes at the bottom, but I was a bit concerned about damaging the cartridge tube which is made of quite thin aluminium.

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    There’s a special tool from WP for this specific operation which I don’t have so I tried making my own from a 20 mm socket, but I mostly just managed to dull a couple of drills and gave up after the first hole (not even finished). Also tried heating the socket until red hot in case there were some hardening, but it didn’t make no difference... I guess chrome vanadium is just really tough? How do you guys go about disassembling fork cartridges?

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    I also took a shot of the progress on the bark busters. I’ll sand them smooth and then have them anodised in black.

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    #45
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  6. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer Supporter

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    Use cheaper sockets :D
    #46
    Dino de Laurentiis likes this.
  7. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Haha, the problem is these ARE the cheap sockets, from a local low cost tool supply store/chain. Maybe I just need to start getting my tools from the aliexpress specials, where one orders by weight?!

    Or, god forbid, order the actual tool?!
    #47
  8. Roofchop

    Roofchop Hands up mother stickers, this is a f**k up!

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    Hey Dino, with the fork tube lay it on the edge of the bench with the nut end hanging off the edge and the screwdriver against the bench.
    use two F clamps to gently hold the tube down (just to stop the tube lifting)
    Next heat the tube near the wrench end with a heat gun, when its nice and hot the nut can be "cracked" free.
    Now go for a cuppa as it is too hot to play with now!

    Also I did exactly the same thing with LEDs and bark busters, they look ok in the shed or at night but not bright enough in daylight.
    Cree LEDs are the way to go and small reflectors even better.

    Cheers
    Dave
    #48
  9. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Thanks, I’ll give that a try, except maybe for the tea :D

    I did a previous bark buster turn signal thinga majingy made out of an couple of cheap bark busters combined with Chinese LED strips and it was plenty bright. It looks kind of tacky up close though. Only have a video from indoors (in which you get to listen to me trying to sound like a pommie), but worked fine outdoors too:

    The LEDs are supposed be high quality, high intensity (i.e. not Chinese) so I’m hoping it’ll be bright enough. If not, the plan is to attach strip of polycarbonate in front to diffuse the light. We’ll see.
    #49
    zswickliffe and Roofchop like this.
  10. Max Kool

    Max Kool Xtankteam™

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    Great thread!
    #50
  11. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Winter is leaving...
    Some parts of it still here though, despite the southern Scandinavian sun trying to do its best to chase it off. Mostly dry roads (well, except where I took the photo...) so went for a short run, 60 km or so, despite a few degrees below freezing. First of the year!

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    Back in the garage I’ve been working on the lowering of the fork. Had to invent my own tool to hold the cartridge piston rod in place. It is of course possible to buy a special tool but it both costs money and takes time to get here. My version is made out of a piece of steel tube I had lying around that had almost the right I.D. to fit around the piston rod. I split the tube in two with the grinder and then with the help of anold rim strip it was a good fit. Never been this far into the fork but good I was since the rebound valve needle had seized completely one of the fork legs. Had to hone out the fitting with a dremel and some 800 grit emery paper to get it to slide smoothly again (no pics of that though, sorry).

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    It’s hard to appreciate in the photo how much of a difference 50 mm shorter forks actually make but it’s dramatic. At first i thought it was almost too low, but after getting used to it, the stance is now exactly the way I want it to. Here it’s mounted with a temporary front wheel, since I’m about to respoke the front wheel with new black double butted spokes.

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    #51
  12. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    So I’ve had the wheel spacers machined to fit the rear wheel in the swing. The one on the right has been turned down 2mm at the end of shaft and the ridge as well. The large face of the spacer (facing down in the pic) has been turned down 0.5 mm. The caliper bracket has also been turned down 2.5 mm. It’s now a perfect fit with the ktm wheel.
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    #52
  13. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    We also did a bit of cleaning and reorganising in the garage, the workshop in particular turned out nice.


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    The room in the back is for the dirty stuff...

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    #53
  14. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    I riveted the new chain today, a DID X-Ring, supposedly a good one. Not because I really needed to at this stage but because i just couldn’t help myself having a new chain lying around. Got to check chain alignment too, which is good. I really like the graphics on the packaging btw, has a nice old school vibe to it.

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    Stock the DR uses a 525 chain and sprocket but the rear wheel I have is a KTM LC4 model and it seems LC4 sprockets only come in 520 width? Not that I mind, 520 chains are lighter and if they’re good enough on a 690 which has quite a bit more power than this bike will ever have, they should be good enough for me. Only bummer is the gold chain doesn’t match the wheel and sprocket...

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    As for the actual riveting, I’ve only done that once before and completely messed it up. I had the right tools, I just didn’t bother to use it correctly?! This time I figured I’d actually read the instructions on how to do it, and at the very least I did better than last time. Possibly I overdid the flaring of the rivets. What do you say, fellow ADVriders? Yay or nay?

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    #54
  15. Max Kool

    Max Kool Xtankteam™

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    I'm not an expert, but wait.

    aren't those O-rings squashed?
    #55
  16. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Yes, it seems you’re right; at least one of them are. I guess it got misplaced when I pressed the side plate on. Side plate is not pressed tighter than any of the other links. If anything, it’s less tightly pressed on. Riveted link seems to move as smooth as the other links, so I’m not sure how much a squashed o-ring matters in the long run?

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    Flare is good btw, should be 5,5-5,8 according to D.I.D’s riveting guide, and both rivets here are just around 5,6 mm.
    #56
  17. Max Kool

    Max Kool Xtankteam™

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    As long as they don't get squashed too much I guess you'll be fine. Just keep a eye on them.
    #57
    Dino de Laurentiis likes this.
  18. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Through a mate who works with sheet metal (not sure of the English word, he does a lot work in the construction business, like roofs etc), I’ve gotten hold of 2 m2 of alu sheet (3 mm). Will eventually be turned into a seat pan, electronics mounting plate under the tank, head light brackets and a bash plate. All in due time.

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    #58
  19. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob Supporter

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    May you be more than just a warning to others. You only had to unscrew the spring guide (the black thing at the right side of the photo) to get the rod out. You never take the cartridge apart where the picture shows.
    #59
  20. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob Supporter

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    This build is looking really good.

    In my opinion, you are building a roadster - that starts with a dirt bike and making it more streety.

    When I think of a scrambler, I think of a 350CL Honda - a poor street bike with high pipes and BNG (bold new graphics). That Triumph in the video is a perfect example. Mostly cosmetic.
    #60