Mutilating an offroader into some sort of scrambler

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Dino de Laurentiis, Jan 7, 2018.

  1. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    You mean unscrewing the hydraulic stop (black thing) and pulling the piston rod out from the bottom of the cartridge? I think that’s a bit of misguided warning if so. Problem with that is I then wouldn’t have known the inside dimension of the steel part at the top of the cartridge which I would need to know to design the spacer correctly.

    If you mean putting the spacer between the top of the cartridge and the “black thing” then that wouldn’t work as lowering spacer, it would only give me reduced fork travel.
    #61
  2. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Thanks. Yeah, let’s not get into the discussion of what to call it :D The idea is that the end result will be something like a gravel racer, but lighter and more capable off road than the typical scrambler.
    #62
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  3. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob Supporter

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    Right, you put the space inside the cartridge to reduce the extension. There is a rebound spring, you make the spacer the same size as the spring and it fits.
    #63
  4. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    I’m making the spacer out of plastic to not scuff the damping rod. Doing your way it’d be way too thin.
    #64
  5. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    So no real progress, for lack of welding gas. A mate was supposed to fill it up the gas canister week before easter, through a connection at work. Unfortunately, the connection got a heart attack so that didn’t work out, mean while my mate kept the empty gas canister at work. Even so, supposedly the canister was full the week after, so he took it back to the garage. I tried to use it the week after that, but then it was completely empty again. Either someone did A LOT of welding in a week or the bottle was never full to begin... so, now he took away and I’m still haven’t got any welding done.

    I’ve at least started fitting up the subframe tube joints. Is this good enough or does it need to be a more snug fit?

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    I’ve also chopped off the old tank mounts and am in the process of trial mounting the new ones (planning to reuse the threaded piece of tube i cut off). Plenty of space underneath that tank!

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    #65
  6. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Obviously, after I chopped off the old tank mounts, I realised I still needed them. Ehrrm...

    I have gotten this expensive oil pressure sensor that connects to the motogadget instrument panel, so i preparation for that I needed to back bike half together. I can also tell that finding a way to mount an M10x1 sensor into a M14x1.25 is not totally straight forward. Hence this contraption...

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    Getting the bike to a semi assembled state also meant I needed to deal with the awful old carburettor boot. Every time it’s off the carburettors (and in fact even when it’s on), it shrinks enough for them to be nigh impossible to slid back on. Something tells me the Internet is full of ways to widen holes that are too tight. Here’s one more: find a spray can cap just barely larger than the carburettor lip, heat the boot with a heat gun, and voila, one usable carburettor boot.

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    And the hole stay wide even without the insert. There’s just something about thick coloured rods, isn’t there?!

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    I didn’t have enough time to properly heat up the engine to see proper oil pressure but I can at least say that the “muffler” pictured is WAY too loud, not surprising considering half of it is just empty space, no match for 790 cc single exhaust pulses. Especially amplified by the concrete walls of a parking garage. Ugh. It just has to get replaced with something else.

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    #66
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  7. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    I’ve received a bunch of spokes and nipples from central wheel components, 36 to be precise. Will be used to make the front wheel look like the rear. Nicely packaged and arrived faster than they said it would. Double butted spokes, with aluminium nipples for maximum weight savings... and I mean, the more butts the better right?

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    On the other hand, when I made the order, they didn’t trust my measurements and/or spoke length data that I got from the wheel manufacturer so the asked me to send them a sample of each spoke type I wanted made. Turns out they still didn’t get it right, new spokes are a bit longer both the bent part and the straight part. Just a few millimetres, so probably won’t make any difference. Better too long than too short I suppose?!

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    #67
  8. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Riding season is here so I rather spend my free time riding than wrenching. Seems the spokes work though. One wheel with new black spokes completed. Still needs trueing.
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    I’m not super happy with the surface finish of the spokes, it’s seems very thin and the metal surface underneath almost shines through. It also has what looks like wear marks from screwing the nipples on.


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    My first thought was “ah, I should repaint them to get a better finish”. My second thought was “so why didn’t I do that with my original spokes in the first place?!”. 170 quid well spent...
    #68
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  9. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    So, still not doing much building (riding weather is just too good), but I did get a new helmet to replace my 15 year old flip face Shoei Syncrotec. New one is also a Shoei, an NXR. Lovely helmet, much quieter than the old, to a large part because it seems to be more aerodynamic. With the old lid, I needed earplugs above 80-90 km/h since buffeting got too bad, whereas with the NXR, even 120-130 km/h is possible without earplugs. Also much better ventilation, better fit and less weight. Happy camper!

    I might spring for the photochromatic visor later on, seems way cool! Anyone tried that?

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    #69
  10. Foxed101

    Foxed101 Monkeywrench

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    Like what you’re doing to the bike!
    Now go and enjoy riding this summer.
    Looking forward to updates in the dark months
    #70
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  11. CaptainUnsociable

    CaptainUnsociable Adventurer

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    Afternoon Dino,

    Following your build with interest as I am currently turning my CCM R30 ROTAX into a flat tracker.

    Lots of pictures stored for a thread later on, but keep up the good work.

    I am guessing from the pictures you are making a new subframe, utilizing the existing mounting points. Should look great.
    #71
  12. CaptainUnsociable

    CaptainUnsociable Adventurer

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    Dino I have some questions for you

    1) You got the rear wheel from Haan wheels? What hub did you go for.

    2) Any issues with spindle size with the LC4 front?
    #72
  13. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    That’s exactly right regarding the subframe. I was without a functional welder all spring so finishing that got put on hold but am all set for the fall. What year is your Rotax R30?
    #73
  14. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    After much consulting with Haan, I settled on the LC4 rear wheel (they only sell complete wheels). It got shipped with spacers but I had to modify the left side spacer and the (stock) brake caliper bracket for the wheel to fit.

    The front wheel is not a Haan but a Talon/Excel combo, seller said he had it on an XR600. I changed wheel bearings and had special spacers made for it to fit the WP 4357MXMA fork my bike came with (also removed the speedo drive while at it). Among others, KTM 520EXC has the same fork so in theory, any front wheel which fits the 520 should fit the R30. Not sure if your bike has the same fork as mine though?
    #74
  15. CaptainUnsociable

    CaptainUnsociable Adventurer

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    Morning Dino,

    My R30 is 2001, black frame, bit of a minger to be honest but she's down to every single component and the engine is with Sportax, so i'm going to end up with a beauty hopefully.

    I will be making a bolt on subframe too, aslong as it doesn't look too hideous, it's very practical especially for cleaning and maintenance etc.

    My original plan was to source some CCM Talon hubs that are used in the spoked wheels and relace to 19". But they were proving hard to come by so looking at other options!
    #75
  16. kito

    kito Been here awhile

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    I have a ccm/ajp front hub and new spokes for 21" wheel sat here if its of interest.
    #76
  17. CaptainUnsociable

    CaptainUnsociable Adventurer

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    Afternoon mate, thankyou for your offer but i've had my finger in that many pies over the past few days i've got hubs coming at me left right and centre.

    Nearly bought two sets of eBay to chop up just for hubs. In the end CCM themselves offered a fair deal.
    #77
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  18. buzzword

    buzzword Been here awhile

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    I put a photochromatic visor on my Shoei RF1200 - works great! It’s triggered off of UV so it doesn’t get AS dark in certain conditions, but it seems fine for my use. I take mine with me rather than leaving it on the bike because I read the lens’ ability to change has a finite life to it, so I don’t want it to just sit outside and stay dark therefore shortening it’s useful life.
    #78
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  19. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Out of curiosity, what was the CCM deal?
    #79
  20. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    There’s been some slight progress. Like I said initially, I’m slow. Doesn’t help when having to do things twice.

    I mentioned previously I wasn’t happy with the finish on the spokes I ordered from Central Wheel Components. Today I decided to take the wheel apart and paint them. I’m using heat curing paint (for exhausts, stove pipes etc) since I’ve noticed it’s very durable, tolerant to many aggressive chemicals and has a nice matt finish.I made a test where I left a painted piece submerged in brake fluid over night, as new when I took it out!

    Ready to be painted.

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    Bake at 175 deg C...

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    Before and after

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    #80
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