Mutilating an offroader into some sort of scrambler

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Dino de Laurentiis, Jan 7, 2018.

  1. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    The DR650 crank is solid and welding hasn't been needed to date that I'm aware of. I recently pulled my 790 down @ 8000 kms to check my prototype Nova gearbox, DR's do have gearbox issues at times, and happily all was perfect, including the 790 top end. The only advice I've had since is that it may benefit from 2-3 deg more ignition advance based on examination of the combustion chamber by a mate whose built winning race engines for ever.

    The 790 is a nice update to the stocker, with noticeably improved performance. Mine is also smoother than stock, with a modded/slimmed crank to clear the new bigger 5th drive gear possibly the culprit. Managing the extra heat though is important to maintain gearbox life I reckon.

    Carry on :lurk
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  2. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    The smoother running is something I noticed too, during the 1300 km or so I’ve run with the 790 so far and that’s without having any machining done to the crank and with all the issues I’ve had. I weighed the complete piston incl piston pin for bot 644 and 790 sets, and the 790 kit is exactly 30 g heavier than the 644 one. May affect the balancing factor in a positive way perhaps, though strange that Suzuki would’ve designed it to be more vibey than necessary.

    As for heat, it probably isn’t as critical in southern Scandinavia as it is in Oz. I did run a temp sensor for oil coming from the cooler, where it enters the head, and I never saw more than 105 deg C, in city traffic on a warmer day. May well mean that oil in the crank case is considerably hotter which is why I’ll install a heat probe in the pressure testing outlet at the bottom front of the case this time around. I also have been toying with the idea of installing an XF650 radiator and a thermostat but it’s probably overkill. Not that that’ll stop me from doing it...

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  3. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Well, that was fast...
    Renovated crankshaft, 1 pc of.

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  4. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer Supporter

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    BTW, chamfering the inside edge of the oil hole in the small end will help to get oil into that area.
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  5. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Good tip but knowing myself, chances are rather big that I’d scratch up some other part of the bearing surface as well, if I attempted doing what you suggest. Small end problems are not common on the DR so I’m gonna go ahead and trust the stock solution.
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  6. Folxam

    Folxam Been here awhile

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    Now is later. Also let me copy your schematics/code :)
    But seriösely, I would also want an Arduino grip heater controller but I'm too crap at electronics and code to make one, do you have anything already laid out?
  7. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Haha, I must admit that later is still some time in the future. That is, I have all the electronic components laid out and a reasonably put together PCB schematic, including outputs for indicator LEDs to display power levels. Despite the small size, the MOSFET transistors can provide up to 50 W per channel (I won’t need all that for now but they’ll be mounted on an aluminium plate acting as a heat sink, so I have the power headroom should I want to install a heated seat). The arduino module is called beetle, which is cheap and tiny but still has 4 PWM channels and four digital outputs, very flexible.

    The arduino code has most of the necessary elements too but I need to brush up on if/while logic skills before I can change power levels with a single button input. As I now have an m.unit blue, which has two discrete push button controlled aux outputs, I’ll just use that for now, final assembly and arduino coding likely won’t be until quite some time in the future.
  8. Folxam

    Folxam Been here awhile

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    Arduino Beetle, cool little fella!

    What MOSFETs are you using?
    I can solder and stuff, and I 'm sort of a copy-paste programmer so I might be able to whip something together anyway.
    My main weakness is that I know almost nothing about the outboard stuff, such as MOSFETs and the likes.


    My setup would include full power warmup for X minutes, and then go to the setting chosen by the operator.
    The ideal solution would contain temp sensors in the grips aswell :)
  9. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    The MOSFETs are IRLZ44N (one for each side). The arduino is supplied by a L7805CV voltage regulator to get its 5 V supply voltage. You need a couple of pull down high ohm (10K) resistors between ground and the PWM output to make sure the MOSFET gate is kept low while the PWM output is inactive. I’m mounting the beetle and wire attachments on the top of the PCB and the mosfets and regulator on the underside, which also double as attachment points, keeping the whole thing compact. I’ve only done some rough sketches for the PCB layout and there’s probably room for improvement but the latest version is as below (there’s one pull down resistor too many in this one).

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    As for the code, I’ve found it’s a big help to have a button de bounce snippet, so that each press actually only registers as a single press. Other than figuring out the input method and the corresponding loop (which should be easy too, I’m just not too good with the stuff and haven’t put my mind to it), it’s extremely straightforward to do what you want. The PWM channels are set from 0-255, for whatever value you want. I’m only planning two power levels as my grips are only 10 W each.
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  10. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    I missed replying to this and that’s interesting to hear. I think mxrob over on drriders.com did some experiments with ignition advance when he was running his full microsquirt fuel injection and ignition and the results were inconclusive as I recall. Idle speed could be kept stable much lower than what’s possible on a stock DR, but I don’t think there was much of a gain on the top end. Things may be different with 790 cc and large valves though.
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  11. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Brackets and such always take more time than what one thinks, is my experience. That said, making the rear brackets for the air box/battery tray were fairly quick work. In fact, it was so quick that I managed to tack one almost 10 mm off, despite having marked its position clearly and everything. Grind off and tack again, think I’ve heard that one before...

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  12. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    It’s coming apart, again.

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    Some of the parts removed. Sometimes I wish i was an organised and tidy kind of person.

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  13. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    More pieces coming off. Well, most of them are by now...

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  14. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    I always loved LEGO as a kid. Probably why taking stuff apart as an adult is so much fun. Here goes.

    Step one, removing the flywheel and starter gear. Was concerned with the amount of force needed on the flywheel puller but after @procycle and @NC Rick suggested a firm tap with a hammer while being tensioned tight, it came right off. Apparently I used the appropriate amount of force :D 6C7BA181-984C-4F3D-A4F9-77DC00332AC4.jpeg

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    I also made an engine stand. I started out by preparing the weld surfaces reasonably well but in the end, I just cranked the heat to overcome impurities. It’s not like it’s a pressure vessel for a nuclear reactor or anything anyway. As was suggested by someone in the DR650-thread, I also fashioned a conrod holding tool out of two wooden blocks (and temporarily repurposing one of the engine/frame bolts). Worked well, getting everything off was a breeze. Since I’m replacing the crank, I also removed the ring nut with the super expensive special tool. At least I’ve now used it twice since acquiring it so the per use cost is down to just 65 US...

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  15. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Got the cases split, the left side came apart very easily almost could’ve pulled it off by hand I think. Had to use the case splitting tool to get the crank out of the right hand side case though, it was on really tight.

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  16. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    There was a lot of black stuff in the oil but I think most of that is from the clutch plates since I had a lot of clutch slipping issues the last time I ran this engine (heavy duty clutch from procycle). I’ll put the the stock clutch back in when the engine is coming together again, with the heavy duty springs.

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    Gears look fine as they should, they only have some 600-700 km on them so far. You might think that they look a bit chewed up but that’s how the transmission gears in a DR look even when new.

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    Current state of affairs. I’m thinking I should do one of those art pieces where all the individual pieces of the bike is layed out on a white sheet. It’s how one gets instagram followers, right?!

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  17. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    The sharp eyed among you might have spotted a back cylinder looming in the background in the last pic. And yes, I’ will paint the cases and all other engine parts black before it’s coming together. I was thinking I’d soda blast the parts first but paint on the cases is in good condition so it’s probably overkill, just some proper cleaning should be enough, no? I’ll likely soda blast the head and cam cover to get rid of any residual oil and dirt though.
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  18. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    Just read this again. Update?
  19. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Good timing for asking that as I just this weekend got back to doing some work on the bike. That is, I have done some minor things since my last update of this thread but nothing worth writing a post about. My focus has been the new to me Ducati I bought last fall, riding and doing some fabrication (custom bracket for side cases among other things).

    What I have done on the CCM these past few days is doing some prep work and painting of the engine. As it were, the engine case and covers were a mix of different bikes so there was also three different shades of grey (or rather dark grey, light grey/silver and bare aluminium). Not very stylish. Still not done, but here’s a teaser image.

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  20. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    A couple of small things but shows before/after quite well (valve covers). Paint is a high temp so need oven hardening, but then it takes anything.


    One cover bead blasted, one raw/grimy aluminium

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    So fresh, so clean.

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    All wet.

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    Fully baked.

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