Mutilating an offroader into some sort of scrambler

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Dino de Laurentiis, Jan 7, 2018.

  1. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    What’s cooler than being cool?

    Freezing the crank and heating the bearing worked a treat when reassembling, thanks to @BergDonk for that tip. Seems like my tube of ThreeBond 1194 has gone bad though, there are streaks of grey crumbly stuff coming out of the tube. Would ThreeBond 1211 be as good for sealing the crankcases (I do have a tube of that as well)? They do seem a bit different; the vapours from the 1194 is certainly much nastier...

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  2. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Well, since I happen to have a spare set of crankcases, I decided to try applying some 1211 on the case halves as a test fit. As far as I can tell, 1211 is a kind of RTV silicone (whereas 1194 is not silicone), only of a slow hardening variety. I think I got the amount right, on the inside of the cases there’s barely any sealant creeping out, just a hint of a white line.

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  3. flinders_72

    flinders_72 Long timer

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    I used 1211 for the crankcases of my WR250F and haven't had any issues after more than a year. Threebond recommends it for crankcases as well so you should be fine. I don't know what the advantage of the grey is if there is one. Perhaps it's better for really poorly fitting cases.

    "1211 RTV Silicone Liquid Gasket White

    250ºC, Application: Crankcases, Plenum Chamber, Head Gasket Sealing with Solid Gasket on Motorcycles, Watercraft, Snow Mobiles & ATV Engines."
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  4. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    The old adage “Two steps forward, one step back“ rears its ugly head in this thread again. I got the cases back together, only to realise I had done something to make the countershaft lock solid (and no, it’s not because of my improvised conrod holder, the clutch basket is not yet on). So, need to take it apart again...

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    As an aside, a lot of small tasks take a lot of time in a build like this. Like, I spent over 20 minutes cleaning the threads of old thread locker on these four screws.

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  5. Roofchop

    Roofchop Hands up mother stickers, this is a f**k up!

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    That sucks... I has a similar incident with a KX 500 engine, the crankshaft would lock up as I torqued the cases together.

    I had the crankshaft sleeved and machined by a specialist (very expensive) and he didn't machine the bearing surface deep enough towards the centre on one side (only by a few thou) After lots of careful measuring and talking to the machinist I had to cut the new bearing off before returning it to him but f**ed the new sleeve doing so.....

    Luckily he re-sleeved it again properly for no extra $$. I just had to buy another bearing....

    Hopefully yours is something simple....

    Good luck!

    Dave
  6. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Ah, the crankshaft is fine, it’s the countershaft that’s locked. I think the gear selector drum was positioned wrongly, causing the shift forks to bind, but we'll see. Hopefully nothing bent/broken.
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  7. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer Supporter

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    Before you go full disassembly, loosen the case bolts and see if that frees the shaft up. If so, one of the bearings may not be seated fully on the shaft or in the case. An easy remedy would be to strike the end of the shaft with a dead blow or brass hammer to try and seat the bearing.
    If it doesn't loosen up, you likely will have to split the cases and look for something a bit more serious.
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  8. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Its possible to engage something other than the designated groove on the countershaft gear with the bottom fork. DAMHIK.
  9. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    It’s back together, countershaft moves freely this time.

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    not sure if I overdid the silicone this time, but probably ok?

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    Just a tip to keep the gear shifting mechanism together.

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    -edit- the only thing I did different this time was to position the gear shift cam stopper in the neutral position on the gearshift cam. It seems that that make the selector drum to be in a freely movable starting point.
  10. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer Supporter

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    Makes me think you may have had a sideload on whatever gear it was in, preventing the shaft from turning.
  11. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    yeah, I think you’re right. I think it was the shift forks being positioned incorrectly somehow, displacing both countershaft and and shift drum, locking both solid.
  12. Tanshanomi

    Tanshanomi Your Favorite Uncle Supporter

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  13. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    This part, I’m sure it’s not necessary?! :doh
    Merry Christmas in advance to all of you!


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  14. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Decided to leave the baffle above alone, it’s not in the microfiche for the later DR650, perhaps it’s only in the XF650-engine?

    doing som small bits and bobs meanwhile. Like these passenger footrests (poor photo, sorry). It’s the stock CCM ones but I think they’re quite neat so I’ve decided to keep them.

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    They were a bit scuffed though so I drilled out the pop rivets (sp?), removed the footrest brackets, bead blasted the alu plates and painted them matte black with my favourite high temp paint. Also buffed up the unpainted alu/stainless steel a bit. The new pop rivets are actually a bit short so will need to replace them but they’ll do for now.

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  15. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Also went for the first ride of the season, bit nippy at +3 C.

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  16. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Squish seems SUPER tight at only about 0,5 mm. Should be at around 1,1-1,2 mm if I remember correctly. I did get a complete new 790 cc cylinder from ProCycle a while ago, but it seems the deck height is lower on this one than the old one, by at least 0.7-0.8 mm (I believe I had 1,4 mm squish on the old one).

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    Not sure what my options are here. Running two base gaskets would probably do the trick but seems a bit sketchy. Do I need to have a spacer made? Replace the base gasket or head gasket with a copper gasket thicker than stock?
  17. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Checked the old cylinder just to be sure, and it’s definitely a bit taller.

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  18. Roofchop

    Roofchop Hands up mother stickers, this is a f**k up!

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    I would go with thicker base gasket (maybe copper or aloominum), keeping the top standard.

    Also my experience with high temp paint is that it does not cure until it has had a few heat cycles through it.

    Stays soft until then, maybe cook it with a heat gun?:dunno

    Cheers
    Dave
  19. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    yeah, seems reasonable with the thicker base gasket. Have seen to many stories of people having issues with copper head gaskets. That said, wouldn’t such a spacer need some kind of gasket or sealant to work well? I think I’m gonna send a mail to procycle as well, to see what they say.

    As for the high temp paint, I cure each part which I paint it with at 150 C in the garage oven. Otherwise it’s like you say, quite soft and scratch prone. After curing, it takes almost anything, including prolonged exposure to any chemical I’ve tried.
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  20. Roofchop

    Roofchop Hands up mother stickers, this is a f**k up!

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