Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Electric Motorcycles' started by MJSfoto1956, Sep 16, 2018.
well, it *has* been done before.
Very true. Color combos are definitely a matter of personal taste. Being a ginger weirdo, red has never been my color of choice; I'm red enough as it is, lol!
Moral of the story though, the accent color looks great.
I'll probably wait to make paint changes next year.
If I sell my yellow ICE bike then, I might very well paint my red eScooter yellow, then the wheels would follow.
Just finished my battery box and mounting/support frame. Waiting on some stainless steel M6 8mm long set screws as a finishing touch instead of the hex head bolts. But it is now ready to mount into my bike. Note that I've incorporated several 1/4" neoprene rubber bumper strips both inside and out to reduce any jarring. This battery ain't going anywhere.
Nice. How do you keep that battery cool?
Well the entire battery was designed with air channels placed between the "banks" as well as all around all exterior surfaces. All channels are connected to fore and aft "plenums" which currently are sealed. But the idea is, should I need it, I can add vents and/or 12V fans to evacuate the warm air from the two plenums. Needless to say, I will test things as I use the bike in the real-world and make course corrections as needed.
Cool. (no pun intended)
I just over-heated and ruined the 4 20-Ah cells that were in the center of the pack on my mower, so I'm taking a better look at cooling before building the replacement battery - probably with 18650s for the spacing between the cells.
Those dual-heat shrink pieces on the Anderson connectors are interesting.
This bad boy is massive: QSmotor V4 8000W 13" hub motor + Pirelli Diablo 150/70-13 tire.
And this is the plan for how I will wire up the power distribution in my eScooter:
Note that I am using a common ground between the 12V and 72V circuits.
Detail of mounting of hub motor to swingarm. Those are 1/2" aluminum + 1/4" steel drop outs.
Finally some sun! What the brake-side of the motor+swingarm looks like:
Ok. Been away on business travel these past few weeks. But it's starting to come all together now. This puppy may be rideable in the next two weeks, God willing.
I'm not into scooters but I like the way you present your ideas for the modifications. Your pictorial diagrams are superb. The 8000W motor should launch that sucker like a missile. You need to install one of those long whip style dune flags so other drivers have something to see as you streak by. That's an odd swingarm construction. It looks as if it's meant to have an adjustable wheelbase.
I finally got 90% of the wiring done and fired her up. N.B. much of the Chinese wiring was inadequate so I took the opportunity to re-wire a bunch of it leaving plenty of extra capacity for the future (e.g. dual PIAA horns). According to the PowerVelocity controller, on a full-throttle test (fully elevated off the ground) the unloaded top speed is 85mph. I'm guessing the real-world top speed will be more like 60mph which suits me just fine. Now just to finish up some loose ends, put the body back together and take her for her maiden voyage.
I can't wait!
P.S. for those curious types, the junction box I used above (under the floorboard) for the power distribution, circuit breakers, and contactor is from Polycase: https://www.polycase.com/sk-24
Just caught this.
I'm no EE and I don't know the details of your build, but doesn't that mean an isolation failure in your charger (it is isolated, right?), along with a ground fault, would make the chassis live during charging? What are you doing to make ground faults in the pack (and out to the contactor) a virtual impossibility? Sealed container? Second contactor?
Also, I just noticed your controller mounted out in the wind. Heating/cooling cycles can compromise any weatherproofing in that kind of construction (very common in similar Curtis controllers), and as I've learned the hard way, the worst thing you can do to electronics is to put them in an exposed, almost waterproof housing. You want that in a separate sealed enclosure, with reliable seals for the wiring. If the controller needs a heat sink (which may become necessary if you put it in an enclosure), use an oversize heat sink to replace one of the walls of your enclosure (properly sealed of course) and mount the controller to that. Maybe the heat sink would become the lid of the enclosure? There may be some manner of saddle bag you could use to make it all look more normal.
The charger is external to the bike. All wiring is point-to-point with no grounding anywhere to the frame. The electrical distribution junction box is indeed waterproof (or I should say will be once the metric-sized glands arrive). As for the controller, many of PowerVelocity's customer's have positioned their controllers mounted to their e-Mountainbikes in a similar manner so I guess we'll just have to see. I queried Vadim the owner of PV and he felt confident that his highly-customized controller didn't needed such counter-measures. Again, we'll see.
Bled the brakes today and took her out for an illicit spin down our little street. Everything seems to be working fine. Just need to make some final tweaks to the wiring and finish installing all the body panels before I get my plates and inspection.
Picked up plates today and took her out for a quick spin to validate that everything is good. Still have a lot of little things to finish before I get her inspected. But the silence is outstanding. So much nicer than my loud 150cc ICE scooter. Fast too.
I'm very curious what kind of range you get out of her.