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Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by chunter, Jan 3, 2009.
I´ll check if the delivery is worldwide...
at one time there was a USA based seller on ebay for the Mahle KL-315 but he seems to have dropped off the site.
several international eBay sellers offer them
This place has them also:
I've been on a similar issue for quite some time now and have found a few issues(this seemed to be the thread to add to rather than anew). My bike at 2010 f800gs at 32k miles started stalling and slowly progressed. So I replaced the fuel pump, put it back together - still the same issues. When I replaced the pump, I found that my vent valve had decided to go rogue and detached, I have not ordered a new one, so the vent is completely open (try not to nap it!)
Digging deeper, I found that I had numerous cracks in piping at the intake area. So I replaced the intake hoses, and the hoses from the charcoal cannister. Put it all back together, and now it seems even worse. A simple blip of the throttle causes the bike to stall out. I have learned that when I unhook the hose from the purge valve to the intake, the bike will run great! There feels like quite a bit of vacuum on this hose tho, which doesn't make sense with all the CC removal threads blocking it off, so that can't be it?
I bought a gs911 to try and get more context to the issue. It seems to run a little rich, the o2 sensor says rich at idle constantly but starts switching back and forth normally under load. I'm inclined to feel this is normal, but maybe this is playing a role(I bought a replacement but haven't put that in yet). I ran the idle air actuator test and it seemed to be happy, but I am thinking there may be an issue with that. My understanding is the T under the intake where the charcoal hose and throttle bodies meet, has a restriction upstream towards the idle air actuator? Maybe somehow when I dumped it awhile back, sand got in there? I took the idle air actuator our and looked it over, wiped it off and reinstalled. =/
Like I said this has been driving me bonkers, also the fact that my bike has been inop now for almost two months while waiting on hose replacements (put a hole in one during install ugh! 2 week penalty).
Can anyone provide some insight that I am just not gleaming from all the CC removal threads and idle air actuator threads? pleeeeeez
It is possible that your canister is clogged up.
IIRC you should be able to blow into the hose from the intake manifold (blowing into the canister) and air should flow freely through the canister and out the "drain" vent.
Have you checked that?
But when people remove the cannister, they plug the hose coming from that into the intake, right? unless I have completely misread those posts, I thought that's what the pictures show. The pictures look like they plug the purge hose before the breather valve.
Yes that is true ...
but with the system still installed there is a chance (I not an expert here...) that it is pulling a partial vacuum on your gas tank....
I know you said your checkvalve was discombobulated so that might not be the case on your bike, but has been the case on other bikes....
I got nut't else at the moment for you except to buy a big bottle of Techron fuel SYSTEM cleaner and use 1 - 2 oz/gallon of gasoline until the bottle is gone and see if things get better...
My bike has just recently started knocking off again at idle and i'm a bit pissed about it as well....
It still stalls with the fuel tank lid up, which would prevent any vacuum. That snap throttle, everytime! I've seen videos of people cleaning injectors with their home made setup and having good success, I guess it's back to taking off all the plastic and trying that. Still thinking maybe the IAC isn't up to snuff. I thought of just putting a filter in the end of that purge hose and be on my way, but my senses say that's running unmetered air.
yeah... there has got to be a metering orifice in the system somewhere ... but where it is ... I sure don't know.........
Let us know which home-brew injector cleaning idea/system you end up using!
removed the plugs...simply put alligator clips on the tabs, and pulsed it on the battery while forcing carb cleaner through both directions. Made up a simple hose contraption that tapered down to the red straw on the carb can, that way it maintained some pressure.
needless to say, I put it all back together and it's still running the same. I need to hook up the gs911 and watch the the parameters again to see what's going on. Maybe i'm missing something.... I guess next would be replace the plugs and swap in this new o2 sensor. Hate to have to take it to the dealer now, sure they'd say something about the missing charcoal cannister hehe
Well ... that sucks ............. lot of work for no improvement ....
o2 sensor replaced, minor improvement? still wants to die after blipping. I'm going to pick up plugs tomorrow, running out of ideas! I'd hate to take it to the stealership at this point.
You have a GS-911 yes?
Did you reset the adaptation parameters after installing the O2 sensor?
Might take some time to get the fueling maps adjusted to the new sensor?
(just grasping at beers ... errrrrrrrrrr STRAWS ... I meant STRAWs...)
Maybe think about the Throttle Position Sensor?
I haven't had a chance to ride it quite yet....with the safety valve in pieces, I feel like I should probably wait until that part gets here. I've seen the horror stories about tanks cracking, and I don't want to risk it. I know some air is traveling through the hose on the valve, and the valve appears to be completely free because the plunger fell out...still rather not risk it. But I do agree, possible solution might very well be to just ride it and give it some time to re-learn, and see if it remedies itself. I didn't remember seeing an adapation reset option on the gs911, guess I should look closer! Also, aside from the safety valve being enroute, I ordered the mahle fuel filter that someone graciously linked on here, and also the spark plug tool & new plugs. I figured it wouldn't hurt. The only other thing that probably needs to be done for major service would be valves...32k miles is probably due for a check.
Appreciate the tips!
I finally got around to putting the GS911 on it and found the area to reset fuel adaptations. Low and behold, it is idling properly! It actually feels like it rides really smooth now! Even though I haven't done the plugs yet, it is running great... I put it back together, and notice the rear pads were low...so I took them off and replaced those. Rode it, and the abs light was on. Racked my brain over it, thinking I damaged the sensor, ordered a new wheel sensor even. Then today, I flipped on the repair cd and realized that the abs wheel sensor connector is under the seat, and that's some area I had been tinkering... Needless to say, the wheel sensor came into today, and at the same time I found that the connector wasn't fully snapped. Snapped it in, road it around the block, light extinguished and abs working.
Next stop is to replace the safety valve that also came in today, and see if that limits some of the constant gas dripping out of the vent hose since removing the charcoal cannister. Appreciate the help fellas!
Hello, i have same issue. Please let me know, is your problem permanently solved by replacing new pump?
Now six years later and closing in on 60k miles the bike is still running well with the $40 fuel pump. That is about as permanent as
I can get.
I have replaced fuel pumps and etc... I have found my solution to the problem to be the cam chain tensioner. After I replaced the cam chain tensioner, I haven't had the problem since. I did this a couple years ago.