My first Airhead - R100/7

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by katit, Sep 13, 2021.

  1. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    Found my motorcycle. It's not exactly running (not running to be exact). But was parked in 1992 in running condition.

    BMW for Sale: 1978 R100/7 Touring Special - 16,120 miles - $3,800.00 - Location Auburn, Wyoming. Excellent burnt orange original paint, all stock parts, original and custom dual seats, no collision damage, little wear, Windjammer fairing. Was running excellent when put in indoor storage 1993. Needs tires, battery, fluids and All General Restoration. No attempt has been made to turn engine over since being put in storage.

    I don't know if it's good or bad deal. I do know it will need stuff to get it to run. But good condition (per pictures) and good owners story sold it to me. I am going to pick it up on October, can't wait..

    Attached Files:

    #1
  2. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    Have some questions.. They also sell another bike in similar condition. Not sure if it makes sense to pick it up or not. I'd like to tinker but not sure if it's going to at least bring my money back if I decide to sell it. Really need one. But will be pulling trailer all the way to STL anyways..

    1975 R75/6 - 22,927 miles - $2,800.00 - Location Auburn, Wyoming.
    Very Good original black paint & upholstery, no collision damage, all stock parts, Windjammer fairing. Was running excellent when put in indoor storage 1993. Needs: Tires, battery, carburetor service, steering head service, fluids & All General Restoration. No attempt to turn engine over has been made since put in storage.

    Attached Files:

    #2
  3. brg

    brg 1977 XT500, 2000 ST1100, 1995 r100r Mystic

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    Airheads in general, and non running airheads in particularly usually end up with you having more money in the finished, reliable daily driver than it's worth. Most owners just like airheads and don't worry about resale. The last one i sold, a very well sorted 1976 r75/6, i had $5,500.00 in it and I only could get $4,000.00 out of it when I sold it. If money isn't an issue and you want it, go for it, but they have a way of getting you upside down on money. I'm always a bit wary of non running bikes, you don't really know what you're buying. Good luck.
    #3
  4. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    Fair enough. I guess I will take one only than. Unless someone close to me wants to split delivery cost for second one :)

    To me - year/cosmetics/mileage/single family owners of the first one already worth it. I have very good idea how much it cost to restore things.
    It's just tempting since I will be there already to pickup second one.
    #4
  5. Malindi

    Malindi Zen Adventurer

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    A 78 has iron cylinders, so they'll be rusted and need replacing. Yeah, forget the money. If it was stored nice and dry, you might be ok, otherwise it's a BMW (Bring More Wallet) situation. But don't worry, the pain is temporary. I bought a 1983 R80RT in 1999, put a ton of miles on it, restored it in 2015 (showroom condition - materials and paint costs around $12,000) and it's probably worth $5-6K after another 30,000 kms.
    #5
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  6. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    Is there a place where I can get all the info?
    With bike like this, what would be my steps before I attempt to crank it?

    a. Tires
    B. Cables check lube
    C. Carbs - clean/rebuild. Any reliable source for parts and what do I need?
    D. Rear drive fluid change. What fluid?
    E. New battery. What battery?
    F. New engine oil. What oil?
    G. Pull cylinders and see if any rust. What is the way to go? New oversize pistons and bore?
    H. Check clean tank, replace hoses

    start?

    any missing items suggestions for parts and general suggestions welcome
    #6
  7. melville

    melville Long timer

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    Nice! Looks to have been in better storage than my /7, which was in a moist barn on the coast. See my Idiots v. Motorbikes thread.

    Start with wheel bearings and brakes while you get tires.

    Clean and rebuild the carburetors. Replace the air filter and check for a mouse nest in the clamshell.

    Pull the sump and clean it out. Replace the oil with some break-in oil and hopefully the rings will re-seat.

    Pull the plugs, squirt some oil into the cylinders, and turn the motor over by hand. Check ignition timing and function.

    Put some fresh gas in the tank (which you drained and checked for internal damage), a new battery, and give it a rip!!!! Maybe you get lucky.

    If successful, get the trans, shaft, and final drive warm and change the oil in those.

    Evaluate what the motor might or might not need and then turn your attention to the rest of the chassis, particularly the fork and head bearings.
    #7
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  8. 2WheelTraveler

    2WheelTraveler backinthesaddleagain Supporter

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    I'm always anxious to see if it'll run. First I'd pull the tank and carbs as you'll need to go through them (later). With the carbs off and plugs out squirt some Marvell Mystery oil in the the cylinders, raise the rear wheel, put it in a high gear and see if the cylinders move. If they do then change fluids, replace filters & battery, check static timing, rebuild carbs, etc. and see if it fires up with some fresh gas. It's an Air-Head after all and if its been stored in a dry environment chances are good.

    Tires, wheels, brakes, forks, turn signals etc. can wait till after you get the thing running. Of course no riding till the rest of the stuff is done.

    Report back in October to let us know how it goes.
    #8
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  9. Chad M

    Chad M 14880

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    Congratulations on your new bike! My first BMW looked almost exactly like yours, same year, fairing, and colour, but mine had Lester wheels, a full stainless exhaust, deep sump and the stock seat with a back rest. I'd drag both home if I were you, especially if you're going to be hauling one home anyway. One Airhead is rarely enough.
    #9
  10. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    Actually, red one comes with original seat, owner mentioned cover was re-done (custom) but I didn't see pictures. Also, it does have deep sump installed (original included)

    I asked for "package" discount, but they just listed them so they stick with price. If, by the time I pickup mine they still have it - I will try to get it at discount. Otherwise I don't really need it. I know one is not enough, but I already have kz650 project (in process) and another project (sentimental value bike) coming from overseas. Which will make 4 bikes total. Marriage at stake :)
    #10
  11. thetubespoke

    thetubespoke Long timer

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    #11
  12. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    To me - 1978 was main priority. Hence R100/7. Price-wise I guess it doesn't matter much. I like to tinker with stuff and even if I bought runner for 5k let's say - I would be spending money on it.

    Here I bought cosmetics and mileage mostly. If it is what it is - I will be happy. Making it run, replacing rubbers/fluids is OK with me. As long as it doesn't look like piece of ..
    #12
  13. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    Some more pictures from seller. What does it mean "special"? Is it because of white fairing and boxes? All boxes with matching keys included. Plus rear turn signals and original seat. Also, original oil pan.

    Does this aftermarket seat worth anything?
    Should I return original pan on a bike? Want to keep it as original as possible. Not like it's going to be long-range tourer.

    Attached Files:

    #13
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  14. Derek_S

    Derek_S Been here awhile

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    If a airhead is non running I'd really be looking to spend 1000 - 1500 but not desperate to own one, either. I have bought running airheads for 1000 - 2500 but the market is changing all the time.

    At 1000-1500 I figure it's reasonably easy to quickly recoup my investment by parting out the most desirable and easy to sell parts. Some parts can take a long time to sell.

    If it's sat outside for any bit of time there are so many potential ruined assemblies. I'd only take that kinda risk on a rare or desirable model, and to me a 75/6 and 100/7 are about the least desired airheads in their class. I'm always suspicious of a 'running when parked' story since if there were no issues, just suddenly parking it for a decade seems unlikely (but sure, it can happen).
    #14
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  15. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    What, in your opinion would be the most desireable airhead from 1978?

    For 78 I know I overpay but it is OK with me.
    #15
  16. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing Supporter

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    Most desirable 1978 airhead?

    I'd say #1 would be a Motorsport R100RS, and second an Havana Gold R100RS
    #16
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  17. Jim K in PA

    Jim K in PA Long timer Supporter

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    "Special" means different things to different people, but it means nothing to this particular bike. Not a BMW term or model type.

    The white cases are Krauser, the OEM for BMW cases, but these were sold aftermarket. There are no rondel inserts in the cases. Most BMW cases were black when sold with the bike.

    The aftermarket seat is not likely worth much, primarily due to the "unique" color. Some love the big seats, most do not. That stock seat looks in good condition, and would look great back on the bike.

    The stock oil pan is in the parts stash, and I see it has what appears to be the common aftermarket deep pan, possibly a "MAC" brand.

    I hope you post more pictures when you get it in your posession.
    #17
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  18. airheadDan

    airheadDan Been here awhile

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    That after market seat is a Daylong. Probably the best after market seat for riding long hours. If the foam, base and cover are in good condition I'd try dying the orange black. Each Daylong is custom made to fit the original owner.. If you really hate the look a used Daylong has resale value.
    #18
  19. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    This seat has couple thousand miles at most
    I just don’t like rear backrest
    #19
  20. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    Another question. What is this electric tape on handlebars? Is this something from a factory?
    #20