My first Airhead - R100/7

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by katit, Sep 13, 2021.

  1. brg

    brg 1977 XT500, 2000 ST1100, 1995 r100r Mystic

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2014
    Oddometer:
    877
    Location:
    southern ca
    If it's a ratcheting type, this link has lots of info.
    http://largiader.com/articles/gascap/
    I pinned mine and made it non-ratcheting and non locking. Works great now with no fear of getting stuck at the fuel station with a cap that just spins. Bmw cap-001.jpg Bmw cap -002.jpg Bmw cap-004.jpg
    #61
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  2. nmalozzi

    nmalozzi airheaded

    Joined:
    May 4, 2013
    Oddometer:
    3,290
    Location:
    Arvada, CO
    ^good info there. I only bolted mine together because I was equal parts too young, ham fisted, and broke at the time to come up with a more elegant solution.
    #62
  3. katit

    katit Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2020
    Oddometer:
    478
    Location:
    Saint Louis, Missouri
    Nice. I personally don't see a need for locking tank (why??). Would be nice to keep original style but without lock. Looks like another project. OTOH - I want to keep it as original as possible. Sounds like expense :) How do those caps work? Possible to use it without locking every time?
    #63
  4. Chad M

    Chad M 14880

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2006
    Oddometer:
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    It works just as you'd imagine, turn the key to lock the cap and the dogs or pawls disengage the handle to the threaded portion, making it act as it does now (unable to remove cap). Unlocking the key engages the handle and the threaded part making it possible to unscrew the cap.

    edit: you're right, I can't remember the last time I locked a fuel cap.
    #64
  5. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    Location:
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    Next question is.. Does it make sense to get replacement if this one broke within 16k miles? Sounds like it's broken from a box.
    #65
  6. Chad M

    Chad M 14880

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2006
    Oddometer:
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    N49
    Despite my previous comment about not needing a lock, I think the effort that the previous owner took in preserving that bike should continue.

    The only disappointment would be that the lock won't match.. unless there is a way a locksmith could work some magic.
    #66
  7. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    Aug 26, 2020
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    Absolutely. I am with you on this point. Will see what it looks like. Maybe repair is possible afterall.

    Previous owner did customize it by moving bars, changing seat and with Wingjammer. I guess it is not a big deal if I return it to factory original.

    And whats up with red rear turn signal lenses? He also either converted (or started to) make them light up with brakes. Common mod for the time?
    #67
  8. katit

    katit Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2020
    Oddometer:
    478
    Location:
    Saint Louis, Missouri
    Tank looks great. Those dark spots is sludge from fuel. But other than that - great. No rust for sure. Cap is broken and sticking screwdriver into hole did the trick. Need to figure this one out some day..

    IMG_5136.jpg IMG_5137.jpg IMG_5138.jpg
    #68
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  9. katit

    katit Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2020
    Oddometer:
    478
    Location:
    Saint Louis, Missouri
    Now that my 2nd airhead ready to go - time to do something else. No, I am not going to just go and do all the same to this bike just yet. I keep it for "dessert" if it makes sense.

    Walked by - noted electric tape on bars and mirrors. Can't leave it like this. Still need to deal with goo but it's not a big deal. Chrome OTOH perfect because of all this years under tape.

    Where I really stock - gas tank. There was tape applied in various spots to prevent rubbing. Ok, yes, tank is in perfect condition no scratches or anything. But this tape came out leaving glue. And this glue (see pic) is like solid plastic. Contractor solvent won't touch it. Any suggestions on cleaning this up and not damaging paint?

    Next step I will mess with a gas cap and try to repair it. That will involve making some kind of tool to bend lip and release spinning part.

    IMG_5522.jpg IMG_5523.jpg IMG_5524.jpg IMG_5525.jpg IMG_5526.jpg
    #69
  10. brg

    brg 1977 XT500, 2000 ST1100, 1995 r100r Mystic

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2014
    Oddometer:
    877
    Location:
    southern ca
    You might try some WD40 on the adhesive residue, and then a mild soap to clean off the WD40. I've found it will soften goo like that without being to harsh. Maybe mineral spirits as well. All pretty benign on factory paint.
    #70
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  11. nmalozzi

    nmalozzi airheaded

    Joined:
    May 4, 2013
    Oddometer:
    3,290
    Location:
    Arvada, CO
    Yea, I was going to suggest mineral spirits as well. I've never used it on an airhead tank, but I used it a bunch on my camper van exterior to remove a number of adhesives.
    #71
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  12. OldCrustyStuff

    OldCrustyStuff Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2021
    Oddometer:
    69
    Location:
    Normal, IL
    I’ve had good luck with “Goo Gone” gel adhesive remover. Give it a spray and do something else for 30-45 minutes, come back and wipe it off.

    YMMV
    #72
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  13. Disston

    Disston ShadeTreeExpert Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2009
    Oddometer:
    19,056
    Location:
    Silver Spring, Md
    You're lucky. Most riders that wanted blacked out parts would use spray paint. It's kinda funny really.
    #73
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  14. ccmickelson

    ccmickelson MonoMania Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
    Oddometer:
    3,146
    Location:
    Fanta Se
    I’ve had good luck with citrus-based solvents for removing adhesive residue from painted parts.
    #74
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  15. katit

    katit Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2020
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    478
    Location:
    Saint Louis, Missouri
    Goo gone gel being applied for over hour, 3 applications or so and no luck :( Whatever that clear tape was - it's glued good. Will keep applying. Wonder if heat will help, but don't want to damage paint

    IMG_5538.jpg
    #75