My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by vtwin, Apr 15, 2018.

  1. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Along with the usual "yawn" Tri-Fives, we know what they look like.

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    I do miss my GTV. They were all sorts of different cars, a good show.
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  2. RedRocket

    RedRocket Yeah! I want Cheesy Poofs

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    Nice Fiesta.
  3. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Scary thing is that I remember when they were new and then speed equipment came out, then they all seemed to disappear.
  4. RedRocket

    RedRocket Yeah! I want Cheesy Poofs

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    I can’t recall the last time I saw one In person
  5. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Here's a cool vehicle I saw sunday.

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    In contrast....


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  6. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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  7. kbasa

    kbasa Being, human. Super Moderator

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  8. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Saturday was a busy day. Disassembled the DE filter and cleaned all the panels, planted the 8 succulents my wife bought, filled some cracks in the paver walkway with some more paver sand. Combined two broken wheel barrows into one good one. I even started and ran the Studebaker which chased my wife out of the garage doing the laundry. I've been wanting to install an overflow and bought this on Ebay.

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    It's too big for any one spot without making a bunch of brackets to fit. I ended up getting a different one on Ebay and it fits well in a good spot.

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    The only thing I cannot figure is where is the vent? The cap is a solid aluminum piece without any holes in it for venting. Weird. Looks good though and all aluminum. As a plus, while running it, suddenly, the amp meter went to charge! I had cleaned the points on it a couple weeks ago and touched the field, but that didn't help, it wasn't charging, now it is. Not complaining though.

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    Looks like I have more work ahead of me.
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  9. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Hi gang! Well, I've been spending a lot of time on the right side suspension and read what I could on installing the outer bushings correctly. I even brought my control arm down to Carl and Hermann to see if they have any suggestions. I can't seem to relieve the amount of tension on the outer pins. I've spread the arms out to the correct measurement. When started, the bushing goes in well, but once torqued down, it seizes the pin and is very difficult to move. Carl warned me that the control arm can only take so many cycles of bushing removal and installing, so I am being careful. I've got the lower pin to where it finally has stiff movement which I think is the best I can get it. The upper control arm outer pin is a whole different ball game. Not matter how I place the bushings, it seized the pin upon torquing down even remotely to any significant amount. I spent most of Saturday just working on the upper arm trying to keep the pin free enough so it won't tear itself apart on the first bump.

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    As you can tell, it's stiff enough to hold the position. Everything tells me this is wrong and wear of components will commence immediately on the first drive down the road. Even though I've read through the links Harry has provided, I'm no nearer to feeling comfortable in letting this go like this. If I back off the rear upper bushing just two turns, the pin moves freely and I can accept that, but I cannot see that being an option, (I did have fleeting thoughts of tack welding it there a few times, but I suppose it's a good thing my welder is broken at the moment).[​IMG] I'm sure I am doing something wrong, but Carl and Hermann told me it's difficult to get past the original threads and the new bushings may be falling into them.
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  10. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    I moved on to something I could make progress on, more cleaning! This time, the left side.

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    And painting.

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    A lucky thing I took it apart, as the upper pin is worn out. Probably due to someone letting it go when it was tight.:dirtdog The upper pin is important as it provides adjustment for camber. You remove the grease fitting from the rear bushing to access a 1/4" hex, loosen the clamp bolt to the kingpin and spin the pin. You can see the cam in the picture. Clever, but a pain to install it correctly. I haven't gotten it right yet.
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  11. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Left side disassembled, cleaned (somewhat) and painted.

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    The ACE Rust Stop received good reviews, even compared to Por-15 in rust prevention and painting right over rust. I'm not too sure. My usual Home Depot go to, Rustoluem, has a much thicker and glossier finish. I guess we'll see.
  12. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    I started in earnest Saturday and wanted to get as much done as possible. I started on the left side front suspension. A arm bushings in mounted onto the chassis. I was able to work the pins and this side went in way better than the troublesome right side. I used the spreader tool from SI and had to modify it to work in my situation. The original tool is hinged on the rear, this one uses a bolt which really limits travel.

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    Even though I don't posses the experience with this setup, I am learning a lot and figuring it out as I go. The left side went very well and I learned that you spread the control arm until they are parallel, I threw the .015" out the window. I also used the spreader tool at the end of the arm, not in the notch which seems to be where it fits. It doesn't provide even spreading there, at least for me. I kept the tool in all the time I was installing the bushings and it worked out to where the effort to swing the pins were quite easy. Just enough resistance to not drop on its own, but not seized like the right side. I was happy with the results and finished the left side.


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    Here is the reason the upper left side pin kept seizing when I torqued the bushing down. The rear opening was stripped and it never torqued down, but only when it cinched down on the pin. I think I may weld a bead in there and cutting back to where the bushing can torque down correctly.
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  13. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    OK, brand new gas charged Gabriel shocks. One is not like the other. I'll install the extended one first.

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    Installing the Turner Kit on the left side. The hose is a bit of an issue as the angle of the caliper forces the hose on swing to interfere with the frame. I'll have to figure something out.


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  14. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Hope there are some welders out there. I've been having a lot of trouble with my used Hobart 135. Common issues are the control panel transistors and relays. Cheap kit from eBay was $13. It fixed my no spark problem, but not the motor which I cannot control the speed. Too fast to create a weld pool. People on the Hobart welding forum suggest replacing the potentiometer for the speed. I checked the ohms and it went from very little to open. I used one from an old panel. It didn't change either. So I put it inline with the motor wires and it worked.

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    Ok, I know it's dirty metal, but the speed was too much and not enough to create a weld pool.

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    After installing the switch in series with the motor.

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    OK, maybe I will be saving $500 on a new welder.
  15. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Looks like it will hold. Time to practice more.
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  16. MrBob

    MrBob Back in the piney woods. Supporter

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  17. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Tried to install the hose for the caliper, but it was interfering with the frame or spring.

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    Hard to starboard is ok...

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    Not so good going to port.

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    If I can swivel the hose bit more clockwise, it will clear.

    View attachment 1875560

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  18. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    If I notch the boss that holds the hose a little more clockwise, it will clear.

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  19. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Well, finally got the welder working enough to lay some ugly beads down to fix the stripped out control arm.

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    Took about an hour of grinding to get to a reasonable finish.

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    And the bushing went in well and the amount of effort to move the control arms was reasonable and I considered it fixed.


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    I would have finished up this side except I seem to be missing two needle bearings of the 41 for the king pin. Weird, they were in a magnetic pan and I counted them as I put them in.
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  20. KeithinSC

    KeithinSC Long timer

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    Check the underside of the magnet pan. I am always finding missing parts on the bottom side. Usually after I go buy new hardware.:baldy
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