My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by vtwin, Apr 15, 2018.

  1. Nailhead

    Nailhead Inclusion Rider

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    Good looking ride!
    vtwin likes this.
  2. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    This morning I worked on the Transit Connect and glad I got the Rhino Ramps. I don't worry about crushing any underbody parts with my jack and it makes a messy job really easy.[​IMG] Also had to fix a water leak in some plumbing. I did finally get to the Hawk and worked on the valve adjustment.

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    Hope my wife doesn't miss a few clothes pins. I chose the worst ones anyway.[​IMG]

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    Passenger side went well, driver's side, not so much. Hope I found the engine noise.

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    Sod Buster, TwilightZone and zookster like this.
  3. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    The replacement ignition switch has been bugging me in it's fit.

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    It spins when you turn the key. Seems it needs a woodruff key to fit in the slot and a flat spot to hold it in place.


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    This is the old Willys switch and it fits pretty well in the Hawk, unfortunately it's bad.

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    Looks like this pin needs to be removed in order to see what's wrong with the switch. I'm sure it's just worn out. I also can't find the key to it anyway.

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    I may use this old motorcycle lock washer and use the tabs to lock in the new switch, no harm or cost in trying.
    zookster likes this.
  4. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    I replaced the bent push rod, but it really didn't seem to approve the running. Well, I decided to replace the points and condenser since the engine wasn't running smoothly and the idle was stuck around 1200 rpm.

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    Well lookee here! I filed the points and added a dab of die-electric grease to the cam. Adjusted them to 0.22 and checked the timing and it was way advanced. I brought it to approximately 10 degrees. Engine smoothed out fairly well and I was able to drop the engine speed down to 760 rpms. Exhaust pipe on the left was strong and exhaust was hot. Left side seemed weak and cooler. The heater valve doesn't seem to be opening and manually opening resulted in the exhaust was naturally stronger. I think I will be pulling out the heat riser and put in a spacer.
  5. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

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    dual points, must be a hot-rod!
  6. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    I like the way this car has been optioned. Dual exhaust, 4 bbl, Twin Traction, 3 speed with overdrive and now a dual point distributor!
    Nailhead, c1skout and MikeyT like this.
  7. TownPump

    TownPump Been here awhile

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    1964 Avanti at a small car show nearby:

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  8. noman

    noman Long timer

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    am following and really enjoying this thread, especially the pic of your ride outside. very nice! looking at those points adjustment screws reminded me of what i do to all my motorcycle projects (they all have points). when the points are adjusted next, i make it real easy on myself or the next owner by replacing those little screws with socket head cap screws ( i've learned to just ask for allen bolts). well, i gotta get back to polishing 40 year-old spokes. :umph
    Fire Escape likes this.
  9. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Thanks, that's a good tip as those screws were, well, screwed up.
    MikeyT likes this.
  10. JAB

    JAB Unsprung Weight Supporter

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    Wondering out loud if you could run dual Pertronics for a little more reliability. Works great on my Ranchero. (Single set)
  11. Nailhead

    Nailhead Inclusion Rider

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    I’m not sure I’d rush out & buy a Pertronics for its reliability: my Jeep went TU in the middle of an intersection the other night, and the failure showed all the hallmarks of an electronic ignition failure as I’ve experienced them in the past on other vehicles. That damn truck is so simple there really isn’t much else it could be.

    Points might be somewhat maintenance intensive compared to electronics, but when they fail they can be cobbled together roadside. There is no “limp mode” with electronics.
  12. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    I used to own British cars and frequent the marques forums, all the tales of woe on Petronics scared me off. All recommended carrying a spare set of points and condensers "just in case". Of course electronic ignition is a proven system though and has been in cars since the 70s. My Buick engined Willys pickup was a 78 with HEI and never thought twice about it on a trip. For some reason Petronix keeps coming up as failing. Weird.
    Sod Buster likes this.
  13. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Yesterday after work I wanted to look into why the right bank seemed weak and idle lopey. I was hoping #2 didn't suddenly lose compression again. It didn't, all 4 around 125. But #6 plug had some oil on it, #8 had some carbon debris on the electrode shorting it out, no gap at all and #4 was loose.:shog

    Well that made a big difference. Engine is running pretty nice now. A flat spot on acceleration, but I'm owing that to the IV I'm using. The hose is really small and starving the pump. Too bad I can't find the gas cap to my Honda 6hp engine or I would use the 1 gallon tank from it.
    SafetyThird likes this.
  14. JAB

    JAB Unsprung Weight Supporter

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    I can't argue the point of failure and I too carry my old points and condenser in a baggie. If one or the other is going fail at some point, I can go with not gapping points for now and work on something else. Great build, keep up the great work.
  15. Roll-sen

    Roll-sen Hater be Hatin'

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    Another victim of Pertronix failure about a year ago in my '64 Dodge. Car started normally, moved about 200 feet and died just like turning off the key and would not restart. Reinstalled the points I kept just for this situation and started right up. Tested the Pertronix module at home and it would not switch when the sensor/rotor was moved in front of it.

    Points are a pain in the ass but they'll get you home.
    Nailhead likes this.
  16. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Worked on getting this aftermarket ignition switch mounted instead of flopping around having to use two hands to start the car

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    Using the motorcycle front sprocket lock washer, I modified the teeth enough to get the ignition switch held in place.

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    The teeth are bent so they grip the back of the fiberglass dash opening to keep the switch from spinning.

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    I think I need to flatten the washer a bit more as the locking nut sticks out too far, not flush. For now, I can work with it so I can drive the car out before I set it and my garage on fire from it shorting out on something.[​IMG]
    zookster likes this.
  17. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    The exhaust heat valve didn't even remotely seem like it was opening. At the risk of having cold running problems or the choke not coming off soon enough, I took it out.

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    I put some MAPP gas heat on it to test it.

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    It does work, just didn't seem to be on my car.

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    I put in a spacer I had from the wrong header pipes. Exhaust is very even now and with our mild winters, it shouldn't be a problem.
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  18. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    I put the center caps on.

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    Taking a "shine" to this fender. A little Soft Scrub and some Meguire's Cleaner Wax worked some magic on this fender.
  19. Nailhead

    Nailhead Inclusion Rider

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    Problem with the 230 civilian distributor and a Pertronix setup is that you have to drill out a rivet to remove the points assembly. Once that’s done, you’re committed, and carrying a set of points is, well, pointless.

    Gotta carry a spare $165 Pertronix, I guess.
    Bt10 likes this.
  20. Sod Buster

    Sod Buster Llano Estacado

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    On an old hobby car are you really going to wear the points out, nope, these cars were designed to run on points so there is no reason to reinvent the wheel, condenser and coil are what usually give you a problem, I've pulled old crapped up points cleaned them and away you go.
    I don't hear very good reviews for Pertronix ignitions.
    vtwin likes this.