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Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by Pyndon, Jun 23, 2006.
Man, this is amazing work. Do you accept summer interns in your garage?
I started the day helping a friend to move into his apartment so didn't actually get started till 3pm. I started by getting the carbs and airbox all sorted and fitted up. I cleaned the lower and upper portions of the airbox and all of the parts that go with it.
I then carried out the modification to the carb vent hoses as stated on the Technical Bulletin. This just involved replacing the carb vent hoses and routing them properly.
I also carried out the TSB on the fuel pump vent hose. This one just verifies that the vent hose is routed correctly and kink free to ensure that the fuel pump does not corrode and contaminate your fuel. This was fine but worth chacking. I re-routed the pipe a little to ensure it will not be a problem in the future.
Got all the carbs assembled together as one unit, fed all the cabled through the air box and attached them all up. I tell you what, working on the carbs is definatley not a five minute job, it is very easy to get the pipes kinked on assembly and it is very important to take your time and observe everything as you install them.
One thing I found was that the lower clamps on the rubber mounts for the carbs, the side that clamps to the cylinder head, were at the end of their thread. In other words they would not tighten up anymore. Since the flange has a grove in it then I did not perceive this to be a problem, I tried to pull at the carbs and they were tight enough, I sure couldnt get them off anyway! I got the carbs finished and verified eveything was working smoothly with no sticking cables or anything. Checked the clamps, hoses and rubbers were all fitted correctly...........
Its a good idea to cable tie the vent hose to the carb frame on left hand side to prevent the hose from rubbing on the linkage. Fitted a new air filter and refitted the snorkel and upper portion of the airbox.
Ooops, just realised I forgot to set the lock stops on the new tripple clamps, so I did this. I set them such that the forks were about 1/4" from the frame this should be enough to prevent the forks hitting the frame in a crash situation or hitting a tree in the woods
I then installed the rear sub-frame with the header to muffler link pipe and re-fitted the mufflers.
I took a picture of it with one muffler just to see what it would look like, I personally prefer the two however, I would like the weight saving advantage of just the one!!!
Once I had the entire exhaust system in position I lined up the mufflers and tightened them all up, then tightened the header pipes and left the the clamps between the headers and link pipes till last. It all fitted very snug and lined up perfect.
The oil tank, temperature control fan and radiator then needed re-fitting so I got all that little lot in place and checked that I had not misses any breather hoses etc. Everything looked good except I could not find where the plug is meant to sit for the fan. It has a little lug on it which suggests that it fits somewhere but could not find where for the life of me!
Well, it is getting close to the time where Orange parts are going to start and be re-fitted so I took the time out to wash the remainder of parts that have to be fitted to the bike. Took then all outside and gave them a good seeing to
Cleaned and fitted the headlight, gaurd and screen, although I think I need a new screen. It is cracked all over and one of the lower corners is smashed completley. I managed to get it all fitted up ok, but will keep my beads out for a new one (if anybody has one, please let me know, a standard one is fine).
Got some new parts today while I was at the KTM dealer. Replaced the broken mirror and fitted some new KTM handgaurds and renthal grips. I also had to get some new handles for the rear of the bike to save me running around with the luggage racks on when I dont need the luggage.
Thats it! Just waiting for some Loctite 648 to arrive so that I can do the Ignition Rotor TSB before I fill the bike with oil. Then re-fit all the panels and bits and bobs and we should be somewhere near, back soon
Well today is a report writing frenzy! Its either writing this or THIS!!
I know which one I'd choose anyday......so here it is!
Today started with the appearance of some Loctite 648 in my post box!
I needed this to do the ingnition rotor Technical Service Bulletin and this was first on my list of jobs for today. I pulled the bike to a spot where I had good light and popped the bike onto its side-stand so that when you are washing components all the waste runs out and doesnt stay in the motor.
Firstly I disconnected the wiring around the ignition cover and moved it out of the way, after draining the water out of it (the wiring that is!!) :eek1.
I then removed the cover. The TSB says the breather hose has to be removed but to save you replacing the clip and loosing the KTM one (which you need a special tool to install a new one the same) you can disconnect the breather hose at the other end (at the airbox) and feed the hose through. This will allow you to remove the casing easily without removing the KTM clip. I tied the case up with a piece of string to prevent the ignition wires getting pulled.
You can re-use the original gasket if you really want to, or cant easily get a new one. They are steel reinforced so very robust and come off in one piece without leaving parts behind on the mating surface. Be careful not to loose the locating dowels or let them drop into the engine, they are only a loose fit.
I did a check to see what torque it would take to remove the old ignition rotor screws. The spec says 15Nm with Loctite 648 Retaining Compound but the factory didnt put enough 648 on making the screws vibrate loose. Put it this way, I am extreemely glad I did this TSB before I used the bike. Two of the screws only took a torque of 5Nm to remove them and the remainder were 8Nm. I think I cought this just in time, they were very loonot very tight at all! Also, it's important not to remove them all at the same time, just one or two at a time or the whole thing falls apart! After looking at each screw you can see how little Loctite was on there, if any and the threads were covered in oil which suggests the threads werent sealed (not enough Loctite!).
I cleaned the threads with a wire brush to remove the small amount of Loctite that was there and cleaned the threads in the rotor and the screws with cleaning solvent.
I did not have an airline to blow the solvent from the hole so I got a piece of vent hose and blew down it, it worked for me and allowed the threads to dry out quicker, very important that they are clean .
A bit of Loctite on a small screw driver allows you to coat the thread in the hole and then smother the threads on the screws with the stuff (and dont be shy!) just wipe off the excess when your done.
Got them all replaced and torqued up to the required setting of 15Nm.
Cleaned the mating surfaces and installed a new gasket and inserted the dowel pins. Put two new copper washers on the two ignition cover bolts that have them on (I don't thin this is esential but I had them so I did). Lined it up and screwed it on, torque settings for cover bolts are 10Nm.
Threaded the breather hose bach through the frame and hooked it up to the airbox.
EASY! I left the bike for 6hrs before starting it since this is how long it takes to set to at least 50% of its full strength. Had lots of other stuff to do anyway.
I cleaned all the screens even though they were pretty spotless, not bad to say the bake had done 3000 miles since its last service.
Refitted them all to factory specs. A spot of oil on the new filter rubber to prevent the chance of it tearing on installation and off she popped right back in.
Replaced the filter and screen covers after I had cleaned them all and inspected the seals. Drain plugs cleaned, refitted and torqued up. Filled her up with oil, 2.75ltrs for starters and will top it off once Ive had her running.
Got some new coolant
I came to refit the tanks and saw that the vent hoses were looking a bit poorly and one of them was kinked so bad that I couldnt even blow through it. So, I replaced those with some nice new and then refitted the tanks and plumbed up the pipework.
I then installed the remainder of the panels, polised and waxed them all and installed the Renazco seat .
I just remembered that I had forgotten to fix the center stand. The stand just stuck it position wherever you placed it (it was seized!) so I stripped it down and sorted it out. Usual, no grease and lots of grime in the bushings. I had to remove them with a hammer and drift, thats how tight they were !
Refitted it with some medium strength Loctite, torqued it all up and it works like new
Now when you push the bike from its stand, the stand springs up to its stowed position, just as it should .
Finished installing bits and pieces here and there and I have to say the bike is looking almost complete. I have not received the Touratech Bash Plate yet so I will have to refit the stock one for now. However, I will wait until I have run the bike up and checked for any leaks etc.
Well, posting this now (quickly!) as its pretty long and I lost the last one when damn computer crashed!!
Well its that time "Fire in the hold!!", fingers in your ears, time to wake the neighbours .
Tried it with no choke, nothing, choked it and off she went although when I turned the chike off the revs remained fairly high. This may just be some fine tuning needed with the carbs, may need another half turn on the mixture screw. I will take the bike for a spin first and check the jetting in all conditons.
Quick checks for leaks, none, excellent ! Topped the oil off, it took almost 3.2lts all together when it should only take 3lts, but then again I drained everything fully and left it sat for days with the drain plug out so its probably about right. A re-built engine/system always takes more than just a quick oil and filter change.
Got some gear on and jetted off down the road .
Oh my, oh my, oh my big smiley grin
.WOW! this is a completely differnet bike now!
Before, when I first got the bike, it was very unsmooth below 4000rpm so you had to keep the revs up by changing down at slower speeds. One of the first things I noticed was that I could cruise along at 3000rpm comfortably, nice!
Next up was the bottom end acceleration. As low as 2500rpm, snap the throttle open and away she goes pulling hard and so smooth. Then the mid range acceleration, well, I think it could be a little bit rich, it just seems to have a slight wet hollow when you snap the throttle open at the mid range in the higher gears.
Constant cruise couldnt be better, so sweet and smooth I could ride it all day long .
Top end is superb but the last 500rpm seems hard work for it. I think the jetting is near, the pipe colour looks good and rides really nice, night and day better than before. I think another half turn on the mixture screws to richen it up on idle should stop it hanging onto the revs after you blip the throttle. Other than that, Ill have to take it to the dyno and get it dialed in just perfect everywhere .
Oh yes, and the popping on overrun...........not existant, just the thundering deceleration of the big twin, its so nice, I love it! That dodgy pipe from the botch of an SAS removal and the loose carb must have contributed to the popping as expected early on.
Also, everybody said these bikes power wheelied in second gear on the forum but mine didnt when Steve delivered it . I just thought maybe you guys were trying to wheelie and yanking on the bars or something to make it happen . Now snap on the throttle and up she comes, smooth as anything and so contollable
..Ill have to stop myself or else !!!
I returned to base a couple of times to tweek the supension and got it very close for fast road riding but I may have to softem it up a bit for the mucky stuff.
Oh yes, the Renazco seat, that is the difference between night and day on these bikes and I would highly recommend anybody to buy one, quality product and extreemely comfortable. My seat height with the tall suspension and Renazco is now 38.5" sat on the wheels and 40" on the center stand. This ones for taaaaaaaaaaaaall people only!!
The steering (20mm offset), well, very smooth, controlable and responsive enough for the street. I guess the larger offset and damper will come into its own on the high speed dirt and sand, I cant wait to try it .
Well thats about it, almost there, still trying to get some new wheels, new disks and fit the crash bars once the jetting is finished with.
One last thing, after a good old clear up in the garage I found this spring on the floor but have no idea where it is from. Anybody know? It cant be that important
can it !!!
Well I've done all this and soon I will be able to go and get it all muddy, cos thats what they were built for right?!? Keep an eye out for my ride reports and lots of pics pics pics. I will keep posting as the bike develops.
It's now 3:00 in the morning and I have been writing this stuff for 6 hours now, and having a few :slurpobviously!
Thanks for reading and thanks for all your kind remarks and comments via the thread, private messages and emails. It was a pleasure sharing the experience with you all!
One last thing..........
Safe riding partners ,
Mega post Pyndon, you deserve to enjoy your bike, it's an absolute credit to you.
Thanks for taking the time and trouble to share it with us.
What a fantastic post
time to enjoy my friend
Thank you for spending so much time on your excellent report! As I said earlier, I will use it for reference in the future. Hey, are you going to the KTM Buckaroo rally in Elko NV? Its August 4th through the 6th. That would be the perfect test for your ride , I'm all signed up and counting the days!
just a quick queston please, were did you go to get your tech balletins on your 950?
Man that was sweet!
this professionalism is awesome, even in your leisure time...
Well, you have convinced anyone of us that you're never better served than by yourself.
I am patiently constituting my tool box starting with two Torque wrenches.
Thank you for sharing that deep knowledge and knowhow.
i know what that spring is
its the piston return spring
I thought it was the mufler bearing spring
no mate .... i just had a look at the KTM manual ... its the return spring for sure
Return spring for what piston? It's not the clutch one, what else can it be??
Oh yes, and I sorted the idle problem out today. It took me about six iterations of carbs off, carbs on and ride around with no right tank on but I sorted it. Thanks to my dad back in the UK for his recommendations during the 'pulling my hair out stages', he's the man and I know he reads these threads......thanks Dad! Got it down to 15 mins to remove the carbs, make the changes and slot them back on.
Only small issue I have is at 9250rpm I get a little hesitation before the limiter kicks in. I ask you all, does the engine have a progressive soft-cut rev limiter that starts at 9250 and stops revs beyond 9500?? Or it is aissue that the dyno will resolve? Dyno in a few weeks, going to enjoy it for a bit first!!
Going to ride ride ride now
Methinks the spring is a leg return spring
Don't count on the tach on the dash to be accurate enough to use for much more than a cursory indication of upcoming shifts. Wait 'til you're on the Dyno, and use their's for diagnosing the rev limiter.
BTW, nice work and write-up. You must have lots of time on your hands (or a very easy goin' boss)
Pyn... one word... AWESOME!!!! enjoy your beast!
Sorry I can only guess at the spring, so I will not bother as I am sure you can make the same guesses.
Sorry for the delay in replying to questions, been concentrating on getting the bike finished and the reports done.
Gefr - Do I think that holes in the swing arm would help. Yes indeed they would but I tok the oposite approach of sealing the swingarm as I refitted all of the fasteners etc. I hope it to be water resistant now . Thankyou for the email addresses, I will mail them, just not had time yet. I will post responses just as soon as I get them. Thanks.
Hamish - I.o.M 2007.......Bring it on, I'll be there .
C-Dub - Buckaroo Rally, Elko NV. I'd love to but know nothing about it. Send me details please or tell me where I can find them. Thanks
Terlingua - I got all the TSB's after trauling this wonderfull forum! I then thoroughly stripped and inspected the bike to identify what was and wasn't done and what I couldn't identify I simply went to my local dealer and asked them if my VIN required the work. Traul and you will find .
One side tank off, blank the fuel line, change the carb jetting etc and speed off down the road with thebike looking just like this!
And this is what she looks like today. Done 100miles with a contant on my face. So smooth, so powerfull and so comfortable......lovin' it!
With top notch craftsmanship and high quality parts you have brought back the beast.
Aha, this is a genetic thing! Great post, really enjoyed reading it, and I wish I had half your skills. But then again, my dad demolishes half the wall when he tries to hang a painting with... a nail
BTW, did you fill up the coolant with the front wheel up from the floor? Something I read one should do after filling an empty cooling system, and I didn't see you needing that. It's a guideline to prevent air pockets.
Keep on wrenching, and tell us about it, please