My second airhead - R75/6

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by katit, Oct 13, 2021.

  1. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    498
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    Since I got 2 airheads (!!!thanks to advice here!!!) - I will split topics to ask relative questions.
    Should I give bikes names?

    This bike has almost 23k miles, haven't been ridden since 93. Plates indicate it might be even 87, owners moved from Idaho to WY, maybe just rode it as is?

    I did look inside cylinders with endoscope. No rust. No rust in tank either. Dry and clean.
    I think my course of action will be oil, battery and try to start it.

    What's really interesting about this one - front brakes WORK! Maybe just good bleading is all they will need?

    Questions:
    1. What brand of tires(source) do you recommend?
    2. What brand/type of battery (and source) do you recommend?
    3. Source and type of oil(keep it simple, I get it, Walmart stuff is OK)? Source of oil filter?
    4. What type of brake fluid do they take? Regular ATE DOT4 SL.6 works?
    5. Anything else I forget?
    100. I know it's simple, but any tricks when I remove that fairing? I want to convert to stock ASAP because I need to take it to station for IDOD and vin is not really readable with fairing on.

    I prefer to go ahead and order all must have items right away.

    IMG_5099.jpg IMG_5100.jpg IMG_5101.jpg IMG_5102.jpg IMG_5103.jpg IMG_5104.jpg
    #1
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  2. Jim K in PA

    Jim K in PA Long timer Supporter

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    Love the small tank /6s.
    #2
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  3. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    One more Q. What is the best way to remove steering dumper to clear fairing bracket? Need to remove it.

    IMG_5110.jpg IMG_5109.jpg IMG_5108.jpg
    #3
  4. korinthias

    korinthias slightly behind the curve…

    Joined:
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    Nice machine – looks in great shape (except the indicator stalks!)! The steering damper unit uses these clips where the unit engages with the ball joint at each end:

    5EF06F63-8947-4213-B615-9E0520E0CB33.jpeg

    Kinda hard to explain, but they have to first disengage by rotating, and then pull out in line with the damper.

    Re. the rest of your questions, for example on tyres, I suggest you search the forums. There have recently been two tyre threads, and you will see that there are almost as many different viewpoints as there are inmates!
    #4
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  5. tennessee thumper

    tennessee thumper Long timer Supporter

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    Arkansas Ozarks
    K, lot of variations on the answers here but here goes...


    1. What brand of tires(source) do you recommend?
    Find OEM sizes as noted on the rear fender. Correct size does make a difference in how the bike handles. There are a few brands, Metzler, Continental that will be exact fit/size. Probably others but that is what I've used with mostly good results. You'll need to poke around here/other places a bit to take in some more info/opinion to make an informed decision. I usually order from Chaparrel on ebay. Probably 30 tires from them over the years. Good prices and even though I had to return one (because the date was old) no issue with getting a new one.


    2. What brand/type of battery (and source) do you recommend?
    Generally folks use an Odyssey PC680 on these bikes. Again, lots of other options but I can't name them all.

    3. Source and type of oil(keep it simple, I get it, Walmart stuff is OK)? Source of oil filter?
    I've been using VR1 Racing conventional SAE 20W-50 w/ high zinc with OEM Mahle oil filters. Again, you'll get a thousand other opinions from respectable sources here.

    4. What type of brake fluid do they take? Regular ATE DOT4 SL.6 works?
    DOT 3 as noted on the decal. Don't know if others will work, just go w/ what the bike tells you here.

    Removing the steering damper---pull the thin c-clips (as pictured above) from the ball ends of the damper to remove it. Careful to keep a tight grip/eye on them as they can drop and bounce to a location difficult to determine.

    Boxer 2 Valve is a good parts supplier.
    bmwrench--member here also keeps most parts in stock

    Get familiar with the MAX BMW parts fiche on your bike. Invaluable for identifying part numbers and availability. I don't tend to order from MAX only because their acquisition and shipping times can be very slow. Some OEM parts can only be had thru them or other dealers, but that's a pretty rare occasion.

    One other thing to mention (there are probably many) but your forks (both bikes) are most likely due for a rebuild. There are a number of components in there that have seen better days, unless you know otherwise. Fork rebuild kits will have all you need for this job. If you get that far, repost and we can fill you in on some tips/tricks for that job.

    Congrats on the new rides, looks like you did good.

    Cheers!
    #5
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  6. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    Thanks a lot for detailed answer! I will start ordering stuff. Will need carbs done as well. Left side is seized (throttle wouldn't move) so they have to come apart.

    As for forks - I am going to do them. Those rubbers boots all cracked as well and I need to replace turn signal stalks too. But for now - plan is to get it running.
    So, carbs, battery, oil change is on top of the list.
    #6
  7. quietglow

    quietglow Been here awhile Supporter

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    One note from a recent tire buyer: tires are tough to find in the correct sizes right now, and the stock tends not to be very deep. When you find what you want, don't delay in buying.
    #7
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  8. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    Starting to look like a motorcycle. Are those crash bars come with a bike or accessory? I see they are original BMW but wonder if it's standard config. How much protection do they offer? Doesn't seem like much. If you drop it - still going to damage heads IMO

    IMG_5112.jpg IMG_5114.jpg
    #8
  9. PaulBarton

    PaulBarton Long timer Supporter

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    They are an original accessory. Yours are complete with highway pegs!!
    I'm not a fan of the look but they do a reasonable job of protecting the headers and cylinders...the valve cover is likely to get dinged.
    #9
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  10. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    Can you get me a link for Chaparrel user? Can't find it on ebay.
    Sticker says:
    3.25-19 Metzeler Rille 12
    4.00-18 Metzeler Block C6/C66

    I see "Block" tires but no Rille. Still would take recommendation for brand/model.
    #10
  11. tennessee thumper

    tennessee thumper Long timer Supporter

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    Yes on the tires...hold tight. I was going from memory when I typed that.

    You'll get varying options on the bars.

    I have a set on my g/s and they have served me well on slow tip overs, a place to mount AUX lights and providing leg rests on long trips.

    Don't use them on the 90s, more so for cosmetic reasons and I'll never mount AUX lights or leg rests.

    You might keep em if you plan to do any multi day, long rides
    #11
  12. tennessee thumper

    tennessee thumper Long timer Supporter

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    This is what I have on my 90s

    Front tire 3.25x19

    https://www.chapmoto.com/continenta...tSk16ntNQhRceWT1xIf9UcB1sgCs2dCgaAslREALw_wcB

    Rear tire:4.00x18

    Capture.PNG

    Yes, they are different brands....I've suffered no ill effects. Both are OEM recommended sizes and are common tires on the /6 series.

    Reason for this, the Continental rear that is paired with their front had a VERY short tread life for me. So I opted for the rear Metzeler.

    Other option is to match the rear with this, if you prefer:

    https://www.chapmoto.com/metzeler-lasertec-h-rated-bias-front-tire.html

    type in the tire description on ebay and Chaparral should come up in the listings. You could also just order directly from their site. I like having eBay---they've done me right when an item needs returned or replaced and are a good second line of defense for this.

    https://www.ebay.com/usr/chaparralmotosports
    #12
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  13. tennessee thumper

    tennessee thumper Long timer Supporter

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    #13
  14. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    #14
  15. tennessee thumper

    tennessee thumper Long timer Supporter

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    You got the correct size, so should be all good.

    Never had a slide stick.

    And yes you'd do well by inspecting carb, cables, carb boots on both ends---everything in the assembly there before ordering.
    I'd recommend full rebuild, don't skimp here. Try to do it once and do it right.
    If your cables are kinked or worn it can give you fits dialing in the carbs.

    Bing International sells kits, they are a bit more $$ than some other places but you are getting quality OEM parts.

    As noted check boxer 2 valve, as well for carb kit. They sell quality stuff. I always know what I need but they maybe able to help you, if you give em a ring, as a first timer.

    Same with this place:
    https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/
    I've ordered a few things from them w/o issue. I understand they have good phone manners, as well.

    Check the boxer 2 valve You Tube page, they rebuild an entire bike like yours. Ton of your questions will be answered by watching that video series.
    #15
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  16. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    I already watched series twice while waiting for bike :) But I am not going into it deep as they did.

    For today I stopped at $600. Tires, battery, filters, oil, carb kits, oil pan gasket(from boxer2valve). I felt like giving them business just because of information I got from them and if they sell quality stuff - it's great.

    Hopefully this will get bike running.
    #16
  17. nmalozzi

    nmalozzi airheaded

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    +1 On Euromoto, good folks, quality stuff. They have links to videos as well.
    +1 again on the Boxer2Valve videos.

    I find it super helpful to watch the B2V videos AND the ones EME links to which are all by Brook Reams. He's a local to me (Denver area) Airhead guy. Lives just a few miles away, and knows his stuff. He gets REALLY into the details and does a good job with the camera when showing the nitty gritty. B2V clearly hired a film crew that doesn't know motorcycles and often just shoots the side of the guys head. When you really want to see up close at what he is doing. They have valuable info though. So I like to watch both and compare notes.
    #17
  18. tennessee thumper

    tennessee thumper Long timer Supporter

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    I purchased from B2V for the same reason. Good to hear it was helpful and you returned the favor with a parts order.

    Good luck going forward....

    NM---Brooks vids do provide much more detail, indeed. Nice to have him near by, I'm sure.
    #18
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  19. nmalozzi

    nmalozzi airheaded

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    He's a great resource for sure, but I like to take in a few different opinions. Much like comparing notes between different manuals/books. He's super knowledgable, but everyone with that level of knowledge can be a tad dogmatic on some topics. We see that around these forums too. Just the way it is. I've been to his shop/garage to watch/learn how to do spline lubes. Great having him so close by. Haven't seen him in a few years, but now that I'm once again "with airhead" I'm sure we will cross paths.
    #19
  20. katit

    katit Been here awhile

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    I didn't see that until I actually needed those details. Simple one from yesterday. Removing front fairing. He just said they used clamps and thats it. 1 minute - fairing gone.

    In my case on 75/6 I had to remove fairing by undoing 4x M6 bolts holding fairing to mount. Then, mount itself was held with backing plate which required tank removal to hold bolts. Then, I had to undo/loosen crash bars because parts of mount were tacked under them and I had to remove steering dumber to get whole thing out.

    I briefly checked 100/7 and mounts look similar to 75/6 but different. Don't know yet what it will take but definitely not just clamps.
    #20