My "Sportstour" creation

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by c1skout, Mar 13, 2016.

  1. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,906
    Location:
    Western PA
    I had a plan for my bag mounts, so I built a "proof-of-concept" piece to experiment with. I used a bit of 1/4" hardboard and some aluminum scrap and held it together with self tapping screws. It could even hold up a bag!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I bought a length of 3/16" thick 1 1/4" wide flat stock to be used for the angled standoffs, and scored some 1/8" plate stock from a guy I know. This morning I headed down to the barn and started building. I marked out the flat stock for my cuts.

    [​IMG]
    Then drilled the inside corners.
    [​IMG]

    No pics, but I cut them out with a cutoff wheel in my grinder. Only took 2 wheels! With the plates cut out I started on the standoffs. I needed relatively tight bends to go around the sissybar mount, so I channeled my inner blacksmith and broke out the heat and big hammer.

    [​IMG]

    I had to make 4 of these, and with my caveman tools it's not easy to make them match. I spent lotsa time tweaking them after the initial bends were made.
    [​IMG]

    I fit the standoffs and the plates onto my bike, clamped together with vise-grips, pulled them off while clamped, and gingerly set them on the weld table for
    welding.

    [​IMG]

    Now we're getting somewhere!
    [​IMG]

    When I started planning these bags, I found out that Givi doesn't sell a universal bag mounting kit. Well, actually they do, just not in America. I even called them and complained about it to no avail. They say they can't sell universal kits in countries where there are vehicle emission laws because somebody may inadvertently disable an emission control device while installing the kit. OKEY-DOKE! I'll go another route. I was going to buy a used pair of bagmounts to cut apart, but then I found these SW Motech adapters for only $27! That's cheaper than used mounts! Cheaper is better! The mailman just happened to drop them off today.
    [​IMG]

    Hmmmmn, looks like I'm missing 2 bolts, 1 washer, and a rubber snubber. I'll make do for now, but we'll see how they do for customer service.
    [​IMG]

    It took some guesswork to get the holes in the right spots, but I figured it all out. Had to chamfer the holes for the snubbers to get them in.
    [​IMG]

    Here's the hardware installed, but no snubbers yet. I've got it marked for drilling. I don't know what kinda plate that is, but it doesn't drill easily!
    [​IMG]

    And the other side
    [​IMG]

    I'm going to run a bar across the top of the fender to tie the 2 mounts together, but I haven't finalized that design yet. I left the tabs sticking out the rear of the plates in case I want to mount the tie-bar there. I did get the bar bent to clear the fender, but that's all the farther It got. It'll go somewhere around here.
    [​IMG]

    And here's a shot from the rear. Looks level enough for me! I actually measured them in all kinda directions off of the frame, table, fender, etc. My mounts are true to 1/8" or less from side to side everywhere I could check.......so I'm sure they'll look cockeyed to whoever is behind me! Oh well, I can't see em from MY seat!
    [​IMG]

    That burned up my whole day. Good thing it's still snowing, I'd be getting anxious to go for a ride.
    #41
  2. tominboise

    tominboise Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,250
    Location:
    Boise, ID
    Nice blacksmithing....Will be a nice project when done,,,,
    #42
  3. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,906
    Location:
    Western PA
    Thank you, Tom!

    Now, an update. I had bent and cut a length of 3/8" round stock to go across the fender top to tie the mounts together and hang the turnsignals. I decided to bend the tabs I had left on the mounts in at a 90, then just drill through the tab and the bar for a bolt to hold them together.
    [​IMG]

    I used some 1/4" bolts to hold the crossmember to the mounts, at least for now.
    [​IMG]

    I used the old chrome fender strut trim for a pattern, and marked then cut some plate steel to hold the signals. Here's the first one tacked on the crossmember.
    [​IMG]

    And the other, also tacked. I ended up having to cut the second one back off for another try :-).
    [​IMG]

    Here's the signals mounted up.
    [​IMG]

    And from the rear with the bags on.
    [​IMG]

    I didn't like the idea of using a 1/4" bolt in shear to help support the bag's lateral loads. I decided to weld some 1/2" square stock over the ends of the 3/8" round, giving me room to use a 5/16" bolt. I don't know if it will end up being any stronger.... but it looks better to me.
    [​IMG]

    That's all for now.
    #43
    Dirt Road Cowboy likes this.
  4. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    96,300
    Location:
    Alexandria, VA
    Maybe weld a nut on the inside, then use a cap head bolt to bolt it on. It will be easier to mount and dismount, and look a lot nicer.
    #44
    Jarlaxle likes this.
  5. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,906
    Location:
    Western PA
    Good thought. I may do that, but if I do I'll just use a standard bolt. I'm not a big fan of Allen heads where I can put a regular bolt.

    More update: I wanted to doll up the ugly area between the turnsignal mounts, so I went out to the scrap pile to find some shiny stuff. I grabbed an old stainless microwave case. Woulda been nice to use some of the louvered holes, but the measurements didn't work out.
    [​IMG]

    I cut out a small piece and started scribbling with a Sharpie.
    [​IMG]

    With a little tin snip work, a couple holes, 2 bends and I tried for fit. Then some grinder work, etc...... I had tried to run it up to my seat lift fender, but whatever I tried just looked bad. So I decided to simply cut it off even with the signal brackets.
    [​IMG]

    Another shot with the rack in place.
    [​IMG]

    On another note, I had mentioned my mount parts for the Givi bags had a couple missing pieces and I was going to let Twisted Throttle know. I e-mailed them on Sat night, Monday night I had an e-mail back from them saying that they apologize for any inconvenience, and my replacement parts had already shipped! Can't beat that kind of customer service, so I figured I'd tell some people. I'm sure gonna keep them in mind for future purchases.
    #45
    AZbiker and Dirt Road Cowboy like this.
  6. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    96,300
    Location:
    Alexandria, VA
    Very nice. Cleans up the mounting area!
    #46
  7. spokester

    spokester Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2013
    Oddometer:
    2,003
    Location:
    SE USA
    Holy Crap Batman!
    #47
  8. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,906
    Location:
    Western PA
    Spokester, I'm not sure how to take the Batman comment, Thank you? Anyhow more updates.

    I finished trimming, filing, smoothing, and painting my mounts. 2 coats of spray bomb black primer then some topcoats of semi-gloss metallic silver-ish color.
    [​IMG]

    Then I installed everything on the bike for the "last" time. Torqued to specs, grade 5 hardware, hardened washers, loctited and everything :D.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I wanted to use nylock nuts on the 2 forward bolts, but when I looked up into the fender from the bottom I was concerned that I may not have the required clearance on the tire sidewall. I ended up running the bolts through from the inside, blue locktite on the nut, then used a nylock nut for a jam nut against that. I feel secure with this arraignment, and have plenty of tire clearance near the bolt head.
    [​IMG]

    Now I noticed I may have a problem. I hadn't thought about the shocks' travel through its stroke, more specifically how short can the shock get..... and how close will its body get to the forward bag mount standoff. I unbolted the shock bottoms and dropped the bike as far as I could, trying to get the swingarm or tire to touch something so I could tell what my max compression could be. That didn't work. the half mounted shocks were just in the way, so I needed to remove them completely. Shocks out of the way I now know the tire hits the fender when the shock mount points are 10" apart. GREAT, now I need to know how short can my shocks become? Well I've been meaning to build a shock compressor anyways. I cobbled this one up out of some angle iron, an exhaust clamp, E.M.T. and part of an old aluminum camper awning from the scrap pile. I was initially just holding it on the floor horizontally with my foot while compressing the shock, but then I had the brainstorm to hose clamp it to the upright of my tire changer.
    [​IMG]

    I found out that my shocks bottom out at 10 1/4", so that's cool, they'll bottom before the tire will rub. I didn't know the history of this pair of shocks and I wanted to change the oil in them so I went ahead and did that. The internet claims they need 10oz. of your favorite fork oil per side, I drained 8.5oz out of one and 9oz out of the other. My bottle of 10wt fork oil only had 18oz of oil left in it, so I made up the difference with some ATF. Here's a shot of my high-tech shock refilling device.
    [​IMG]

    With my measurements in suspension geometry completed I knew that the shock bodies would barely make contact with my mount standoffs at full compression. Looks like I need to do a little trimmin'! I eyeballed straight down at the shock and decided this would be more than sufficient.
    [​IMG]

    So off with the mounts again. Clamped them in the vise and had my way with the grinder, file and emory cloth. Then back outside to the paint booth for touch-up.
    [​IMG]

    Then I assembled it all for the last time again :clap. My next step is hooking up the air lines for the shocks. I got the factory lines with them and had planned on using them......I even made a mount spot for the Schrader valve on my seat lift, but I couldn't get the factory fittings to not leak. I gave up on them and finalized on a 1/8" street T coming out of the right shock with a Schrader valve in one hole and a compression fitting in the other feeding the left side. Nice and simple and it gives the shock a cool "steam punk" vibe.
    [​IMG]

    That'll about finish up the back of the bike, at least until I decide on (and funds become available for) a topbox. Time to get it off the lift and spun around so I can start on my custom Windjammer mount. I think I'll just tack that together once I come up with a design. That way I can have someone else weld it. If the bags fall off I'll just ride away unwittingly. If that Windjammer falls off......
    #48
  9. mjs3800

    mjs3800 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2006
    Oddometer:
    118
    Location:
    Idaho
    Nice work. Cant wait to see the end product.
    #49
  10. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,906
    Location:
    Western PA
    I stole a Windjammer mount from an old GoldWing that my brother had for parts, and started cutting it apart.
    [​IMG]

    With the tabs off I could wriggle it up over my crashbar to get it near where I wanted it. Decided the angle iron crossmember was in the road, so I put my own crossmember in to hold the mount together without the factory piece. then I cut some more.
    [​IMG]

    With the mount in place I could see where I was going to put my supports to hold it, so I cut some tabs from flat stock and drilled holes in them.
    [​IMG]

    Next I bent some 3/8" rod to shape and tacked it to 2 of the tabs. This left side needed a bend to make oil filter removal easy.
    [​IMG]

    The right side is a bunch shorter, but the tab bends more intricate.
    [​IMG]

    More to come.
    #50
    Dirt Road Cowboy likes this.
  11. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,906
    Location:
    Western PA
    The left support on the bike.
    [​IMG]

    And the right side. I couldn't see a good spot for this one, so I ran it at a hard angle to the head-steady mount.
    [​IMG]

    The forward portion of the mount simply sits on top of the crashbar. I added 2 of the curved frame mount tabs that I had previously cut off, along with angle iron to connect them. I notched the angle to snuggle closely to the steering neck area, but don't think I took any good photos of that. You can sorta see it here...where the masking tape is on the neck.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    That's pretty much it for the mount! In a nod to Craig Vetter I'll use 4 hose clamps to hold the mount to the crashbar with a bit of innertube between them, and my 2 rear mount rods. The Vetter website gives general instructions for homemade mounts and Mr. Vetter says to make the forward portion strong because it's supporting the weight, and angle the mount to make the front an inch(ish) higher than the rear. I believe I've accomplished those goals.... so I'll move on to the wiring.

    I removed the headlight for fairing clearance and needed a junction box of sorts to run my wires to, so I went to the hardware and got this.
    [​IMG]

    It's a 4" CPVC outdoor electrical box of some kind. Should be weather-tight enough and large enough for me. I cut the 4 screw tabs off and smoothed up the cuts, then made a mount to sit on the lower tree.
    [​IMG]

    My mount goes right where the factory headlight used to be. The headlight wires were already in that spot, so now I needed to get the turnsignal and marker light wires down there. I removed the signals from the handlebars and traced the wires into this cluster hidden in the bar mount.
    [​IMG]

    There wasn't any kind of connector there, the wires just passed through. So rather than disturb everything I just grabbed some side-cuts and...
    [​IMG]

    snipped the wires and pulled them through. I jumpered some power to see what wire from the fairing goes where to light what, and took notes to avoid confusion, then started jamming wires through the grommets I had already put in my junction box. Quick tip for pushing plastic wires through rubber grommets.... Armor-All. The lower wires go to the fairing, the upper ones come from the bike lights.
    [​IMG]

    I did run an extra 14ga ground wire from the junction box to the frame at the coil mount, the rest of the wiring was just connect the dots. I'll revisit this box at a later date, there's plenty of room in here to wire up some relays to power the headlight for a future update.
    [​IMG]

    You can see here that I mounted the box off to the side so my wires don't have to wrap around the steering neck when the bars are straight.[​IMG]

    The old blue windjammer that I was using for mockup fit fine on the bike. But I have this really nice black fairing that came from a 13,000 original mile bike and that one didn't quite fit the same. I needed to make some clearance for the air filter cover. I eyeballed it, made a mark with Sharpie, then put some masking tape on so I could see when the cutoff tool was spitting plastic.
    [​IMG]

    Now it fits.
    [​IMG]

    I've got some sort of geometry problem. I tightened all my mounts to the bike, then set the fairing on the mount, and it rocks back and forth. Loosen the right rear mount and the fairing doesn't rock. Examine, then tighten the mount and same result. Loosen mount, study fairing flange while tightening mount and watch flange move away from fairing. I'm a truck driver..... not an engineer. I decided that if it wants to pull the mount by being tightened I need to come up with a different design. I study it a bit, try some ovaling of holes, try some spacers, finally decide to scrap it and do something else. Down and bend around the exhaust to the lower crashbar mount. Here's version 2.
    [​IMG]

    And when I tighten the bolts it stays where I want it. I checked! Twice.
    #51
    AZbiker and Dirt Road Cowboy like this.
  12. Daddyo

    Daddyo Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    183
    What shocks did you use?
    #52
  13. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,906
    Location:
    Western PA
    12 3/4" Electra Glide or Road King shocks. I picked up 2 sets for cheap, one from the local CL and another at a swap meet.
    #53
  14. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,906
    Location:
    Western PA
    Here's a shot of my clearance up front. Without cutting I couldn't get much closer to the forks. When turned I have about a fingers worth of space between the fork tube and the fairing.
    [​IMG]

    I pulled it out of the barn to get some shakedown miles on before I take the mounts and stuff back off for finishing and paint. My good Windjammer had been adapted to use a BMW headlight. Lucky for me I had a big Bosch H4 light and trim ring on my R100RT, so that's what I'm using now!
    [​IMG]

    Pics of the mount sides in the sunlight.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And the whole shebang. I still haven't saved up for..... or decided on a top box, so I mounted the smaller one for the time being. My mirrors were hitting the windshield so I mounted them from the underside of the controls. That turned out to work better anyways, I can see behind me without looking at my shoulders.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The Jammer works well! It's much quieter than the fairing on my R100rt, and I get no buffeting :clap like I received from the BMW. I haven't done any extended high speed runs, but I did sneak it up to 90 (indicated) with no ill effects. I ran it to work twice this week, about a 50mi round trip, and other than a small issue with the reserve setting on the petcock it's been all roses. I suppose it's time to tear it back apart.
    #54
    AZbiker, brucifer, TonyKZ1 and 5 others like this.
  15. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    96,300
    Location:
    Alexandria, VA
    That actually looks pretty good! :thumb
    #55
  16. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,906
    Location:
    Western PA
    Thanks Jim! Tonight I did a bit of fork measuring and figuring, then pulled the caps, changed out the oil and set my preload with some custom cut spacers. If the rain holds off tomorrow I'll get a few miles on it and see how it feels.
    #56
    AZbiker likes this.
  17. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,906
    Location:
    Western PA
    Made about 200mi on the bike today. Forks felt good to me, but I'm no suspension expert!
    #57
  18. c1skout

    c1skout Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,906
    Location:
    Western PA
    Sorry, no pics but I took the Windjammer mount back off, smoothed and painted it black, and reassembled it. I was wanting to color-match the windjammer to the bike..... but I've been thinking now that the black looks pretty good, and we're kinda into riding season here anyways.
    #58
  19. GETTHUMPER2

    GETTHUMPER2 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2013
    Oddometer:
    559
    Location:
    SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
    I vote,,,,,,RIDE NOW>>>>WRENCH LATER because none of us know what tomorrow will bring.
    #59
    Jarlaxle and Buckstoy like this.
  20. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,802
    Location:
    SW. Idaho
    The real test for your suspension is a rough road, you will then see if one or two hits per bump , then go on that, put a new shock on our bike for our trip, good roads all was good , hit some constru tion where only dirt remained n found i had a pogo stick n sore but.
    #60