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Discussion in 'New Zealand' started by Night Falcon, Nov 9, 2016.
Is that a toggle switch so you can turn on and off at will?
It will be. It saves using the computer which is a pain. It uses a momentary switch as the ABS circuit only needs an interruption to disable it. A rocker switch can leave the circuit interrupted for too long which sets up a fault code and leaves the ABS light on. Then it's off to the dealer to reset it or no WOF. To re engage ABS you need to cycle the key as normal, this mod only turns it off.
The red one is the momentary switch, the black one is for the LED daytime light switch I plan to relocate from the center of the bars- looks tidier
If I was buying new it would be in my garage ahead of a 790R.....did I say that
If I was a 1 bike owner it'd be my choice too.
1 bike just doesn't work... I have firmly tried to adhere to n+1 for the type of riding you want to do, but sometimes things get in the way...
Indeed. I'm back to 3 lots of rego now per annum (was 5 and getting a bit out of control). Like many, my payslip has taken a pretty hefty covid haircut so I can't see I'll be changing anything anytime soon.
Cables for ABS and Driving light finished and wired to switches.
Located and unpinned ABS #2 from fuse block.
Run cables and connect ABS relay and it's good to go...... hopefully
Tiger 800 - ABS bypass switch
For any 800 XC Tiger owners viewing this thread here's the process.
You will need:
- 1x relay that has NC (normally closed) circuit. (5-pin usually)
- 1x Inline fuse holder - 20amp Fuse as per ABS #2 Fuse
- 1x push-button engine kill switch (Momentary Switch) - The switch needs to be an N/O type (Normally open)
- Extra length of wiring
- Soldering iron, heatshrink, female spade connectors
The solution involves cutting power to the ABS circuit. A momentary break is all that is required for the system to disable itself.
There are two ABS fuses under the seat. Experimentation from others has found cutting #1 takes a few seconds to disable the system, whilst a break in #2 circuit disables the ABS instantly. #2 is the one you want.
- Put your switch on the handlebars and run the wiring back to the main fuse box area under the seat.
- Lift the fuse block from its location.
- Pull the #2 ABS fuse from the fuse holder.
- Locate the wire on the underside – mine was yellow.
- To remove the wire from the fuse holder, I pushed a small screwdriver down from the top to release a pin. The wire then can be pulled out from below.
- Cut this wire, leaving enough for joining more wire to either end.
- Wire as per the diagram…
- The “live” end goes to 87a on the relay.
- The other end nearest the fuse goes to 30 on the relay.
- One handlebar switch wire goes to 86 on the relay.
- The other handlebar switch wire goes to the positive terminal on the battery via an inline fuse
- Connect a ground to terminal 85 on the relay.
When you push the button, you complete the relay circuit thus opening the relay and cutting the ABS circuit. To re-engage the ABS you just need to cycle the key as per normal, the ABS warning light will come on as normal when the ABS is deactivated
Obviously this is altering the factory wiring and playing with the ABS, so in the interests of safety don't attempt it if you are not confident!"
I turned the rear ABS off on my 1090 couple days ago. Don't normally. Enjoying the skids and powerslides.
Ended up stomping on the rear brake (as per normal) a bit hot in to 1 corner, and stalled the motor i.e. locking the rear wheel in the loose and 4 lock to lock near highsides later I stopped to unbunch the undies and get the heart rate back to near normal.
I had learned to use it as an aid to ride faster, rather than something turn off or ride around and it nearly bit me in the ass.
Funny what you get used to.
I had almost the same experience on my 07 990 except it was an FI flame out that cut the engine and locked the rear. Was going into an off camber downhill gravel corner.... mine did highside me though and then landed on my left leg.... still living with the fallout 12 yrs and a dozen or so surgeries later
Mate I've already bought shares in Ibuprofen for when I go 60. If you want my agents number sing out...
Wiring is complete for the ABS switch, just need to refit the tank etc and test it out. In the meantime a quick review of the new Mitas E07+ rear
6789 klm from new on a 60/40 mix Road - gravel/sand/ 4wd track @36psi
It has about 2.5mm tread left at the centre of the tire so I reckon another 1K klm and it'll be a slick. By Contrast I got 11K Klm from the old E07 and probably could have pushed it to 13K.
To be honest the grip levels were not much improved so for the extra mileage I'd have the old E07 which i think is a better tire. Will probably get another E07+ ($241.00) as the only thing cheaper I can find is an 805 @ $165.00, but I don't expect it will last past 5K klm and they are prone to puncturing I'm told.
About what I've experienced except I get slightly lower mileage. I got 5,500 from my first rear, then 4,800 from a Motoz GPS. Current E-07+ has 4,700 and probably has a a similar amount of tread as your one.
Still haven't tried a E-07+ front as the current E-07 Dakar will outlast all three rears (currently at 15km, got 19.5 out of the first one). Tenere seems very easy on fronts - better than the V-Strom.
Worst mileage on a Dakar rear was 8,850 and best 10,700. Like you I don't really notice any benefit in the + version.
I'm probably reasonably hard on rears as I'm always traction control off when on gravel and do silly things like the TT where we like to maintain a good average.
Supposedly Dakars are on the way back. Spoke to my tyre supplier on Saturday morning and he reckoned supplier still hasn't stocked them. I told him to give him a rev...
Been busy last couple weeks so not much riding. I did test the ABS switch which didn't work After some rigorous head scratching it turned out the $2.90 momentary switch I bought from J-Car was the problem .....honestly, what's the world coming too when even cheap chinese junk lets ya down Anywho, I managed to rebuild it, making it better than it was, stronger, faster...thus saving the outrageous cost of replacing it.
New E07+ rear arrived from Boyd's so that's the next job.......
Replaced the Switch on the ABS today - Thanks J-Car PN for the free replacement. I got them to check this one worked and they found 2 others that didn't....Friday switches
It is so handy being able to switch ABS off on the fly! For something so easy to do, and the fact you can do it via the computer, it would be a great feature if Triumph set it up that way from the factory - I'm guessing there's some compliance red tape preventing it though
Yep,most likely red tape. Same reason fitting the dongle to the 1190 causes it to come up on the dash at start up as 'Not Legal'.
Added these to my thread as today was the first time I spotted one - looks like a nice bike....cept for the price tag
The more I think about a new bike, the more it will have to meet my exacting requirements.
160-180 kgs wet, Max!
600 - 800cc engine with plenty of low down grunt - ideally it will wheelie in the first 3 gears effortlessly!
Wire tubeless 21" front - 18" or 17" rear is fine
Some wind protection - I'm not fussy on that like some folks...they might as well buy a car!
Has to have a modern TFT screen and not one of those tiny enduro speedos like the current 701/690...$20k bike with no rev counter
350K range - not negotiable!
Be able to turn off Big Brother tech
At least 10K between services
It's gotta be a looker...the current KTM theme is just plain
Swapping one 200kg Adventure bike for another one just seems like a mistake. Rumour has it a 665 Tiger is on the way and KTM are finally going to build the 690 Adventure in 2021/22. A KTM490R might fit the bill but given my list above I think the fat o'le Tiger will be in the shed for some time to come
I'll give this ago cheers
works like a charm, don't use cheap switches