My year of Motorcycle Vagabonding Part B: Mexico-Central America-South America

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by MotoAdventureGal, Nov 30, 2009.

  1. MotoAdventureGal

    MotoAdventureGal Motorcycle Vagabond

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    997
    Location:
    Gearing up to ride...
    So 10 days of being sick in La Paz gave my hand a proper amount of time to heal, and so I looked forward with relish my first day back in the saddle. I felt like I had "wasted" time, an so now was not going to do a grand tour of Bolivia as planned. Instead the hotel fellows at the hotel recommended a coupe of day tours to get into the wing of things, and I easily agreed since the hotel was comfortable and I had basically been adopted by them. They had their maid make me "clean" food, and I'd go up to their apartment at night and eat meals with them, or we'd sit for long hours in the lobby and chat and drink mate (tea) together.

    Here I am leaving La Paz and heading North to Copacabana. It's market day on the North side of town.

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    I'd passed a lot of cultivated fields, but had never seen crops of this color.

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    Some local political advertising.

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    Copacabana is a small town on Lake Titicaca...here's my first view of the lake ( again).

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    SO I get down to the port, I get motioned to the front of the line, and next thing I know I have pulled onto a boat that I thought was the dock. The pilot pushes off before I even have the kickstand down--bizarre for me, as I knew I had to take a ferry but I was not expecting one such as this. It all happened so ffast by the tie I had the kickstand down and turned around to see the pilot, we were 25 feet from the dock!

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    The bots push off in pairs, then separate for the voyage across the lake.

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    Mostly I stood beside the ike with a stabilizing hand on it for obvious reasons...

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    Here's the other boat that pushed off with us...

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    The dock at the other side.

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    Some colorful local women pass by.

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    I ride out of the port and head to Copacabana.

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    I need gas, and I am told this is the only place to get it. How many liters do i want? (Um, how many liters to a gallon?)

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    Um...is that candy-colored stuff really gonna make my bike run?

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    No filtering cloth...Goddess help me!

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    I am hungry. A rare thing these past two weeks. Sick of the bland food my nursemaids had been feeding me, I stop here.

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    And order a veggie lasagna. Here's my lunch view. Purdy!

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    Then I decide to walk around town. Here's the cathedral. I am told they bless vehicles here every day...but somehow I miss it even though I am waiting around for it.

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    Okay, this was just creepy. The store was closed (a broom across the doorway). What on EARTH do people do with Llama fetuses? (by the other stuff I could see for sale I gathered it was something occult--later I heard it is some mountain magic for the Andinos.)

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    Here's the port.

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    Back to the dock--and the pilot makes some joke about us getting married because I have ended up with him twice (out of the 20+ pilots there).

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    I never tire of this view...

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    It's a little rougher this time across so I hold onto the bike the entire time.

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    Then I hit the road--I want to get back into La Paz before it gets dark.

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    WOW! It was too cloudy to see this on the way in. LOOK at those Andes! Incredible!

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    Adios, Lake Titicaca.

    Tomorrow is the Road of Death...

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  2. GypsyWriter

    GypsyWriter Yup, I'm a girl.

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,110
    Location:
    Visalia CA
    Still loving this thread like crazy!!! Good luck with your further travels, sorry the sickies haven't been leaving you alone. Very inspiring and gorgeous stuff!!!
  3. MotoAdventureGal

    MotoAdventureGal Motorcycle Vagabond

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    997
    Location:
    Gearing up to ride...
    Well the next day I got even luckier: another friend of Eric’s had passed by the hotel just as I was coming back from Copacabana all exhilarate form my ride, and we got to talking. I told him I was heading to the “Road of Death”…Luis took the day off work and decided to ride with me. His brother also joined us, and the three of us had a blast riding together.

    Several tours gather here at the top of this pass to ride the tarmac to where the “Road of Death” begins. Here’s one such group getting started.

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    Yup! There’s our road…

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    My tourguide, Luis:

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    A nondescript right turn gets us onto the famous “Road of Death”. while more of a tourist attraction now rather than a truly harrowing road (trucks not take the new, asphalted road). Weird rule of the road here: traffic coming UP the mountain has the right f way, and so you pass on the LEFT (severe drop-off) side of the road. Yikes!

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    These guys were just great. Such good company.

    Juan Carlos

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    Luis

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    Other than the 6000 foot drop-offs,

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    the only other dangerous thing about the road are looking out for all the mountain biking tourists…

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    Note to self: check the tress for vultures before choosing a stopping place:

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    At least there were nice butterflies to look at to distract us from the stench...

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    End of the road leads us to Coroico, where we have lunch and I spend a lot of time looking for a “Road of Death” Tee shirt.

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    We picked up their nephew Erick that is a Doctor-in-residence at the local hospital, and went to lunch:

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    Here was the view from the porch we ate on: That’s where we came from.

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    Luis adds a little fuel to his bike for the ride home…

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    We took the asphalt on the way back.

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    There was a lot of fog coming back up and over the high pass into La Paz, and at one point it began to rain. That turned to hail, and the roads froze over with a slick layer of black ice…Luis nearly ate it trying to pass a truck when another truck came along with no lights, and the no lights truck skidded to a stop with the front wheels dangling over the cliff. Too much excitement for me–I just rode slow and concentrated on looking as far ahead as I could so I would keep my balance.

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    We made it back into La Paz and Luis led me back to my hotel.

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    what a GREAT! day…
  4. MotoAdventureGal

    MotoAdventureGal Motorcycle Vagabond

    Joined:
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    Gearing up to ride...
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  5. MotoAdventureGal

    MotoAdventureGal Motorcycle Vagabond

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Gearing up to ride...
    April 30, 2010

    I left La Paz later than I'd like, destination: Uyuni. Once I left the valley that La Paz lies in, the road was f-l-a-t. But it was high and cool, and I was sooooooo looking forward to reaching the salt flats in Uyuni.

    <a href="http://motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-0011.JPG"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-5263" title="SA_Trip_Bolivia- 001" src="http://motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-0011.JPG" alt="SA_Trip_Bolivia- 001" width="800" height="600" /></a>

    <a href="http://motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-003.JPG"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-5264" title="SA_Trip_Bolivia- 003" src="http://motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-003.JPG" alt="SA_Trip_Bolivia- 003" width="800" height="600" /></a>

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    It was about 4:00 when I hit Oruru, and I decided to stay there for the night. Unfortunately, I had to do about 5 laps of the town, plus stop at 4 different hotels, to realize Oruro was e-x-p-e-n-s-iv-e. Like three times the price of La Paz. And I though Bolivia was supposed to be cheap! Anyway, I ended up at Hostal Boston for about $7 with a shared bath, and I could not believe my eyes when they opened the car park:

    MOTO TRAVELERS!!!

    They were from Argentina and we visited while I unpacked. They were also headed to Uyuni the next day as well.

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-024.JPG" alt="" />

    Back on the road, I celebrated my first day of travel again with a STEAK at a Brazilian restaurant.

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    The side dish was smushed rice with cheese in it.

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    The hotel was really cold, really noisy, and I id not sleep very well. I was up before light and left the hotel. I knew I had 100+ miles of ripio to ride, and wanted to get a head start on it. I was surprised by the fact that I had 80 miles of pavement to ride before the <em>ripio</em>...next time I'd better look at the map closer!

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    It was a beautiful morning and it was c-o-l-d. I was glad to have my heated gear!

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    I don't remember the name of this town, but I thought at 60 miles I'd better get some gas...I could not figure out why there was a line...they had gas...were they rationing? The line was looooooooooong and I am not so patient. I did a quick mental calculation, and decided if all the numbers were correct, I could just make it to Uyuni with the gas I still had. I also had a spare liter as reserve tied to the bike....I should be OK...

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    And here starts the <em>ripio</em>.

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    There were several water crossings...this one made me stop and walk about a bit to try to see the best path across. i was buying time hoping someone else would come along, but no one did. OK, I chose to follow the tracks where it looked like the majority of cars went...

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    And I made it to the other side. It was kinda deep and my legs got soaked.

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    Strange mud-and-water formations int he desert...I was glad I was riding in dry conditions and not in wet ones.

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    Lots of llamas along the rivers where enough green grew to sustain them...

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    This spot reminded me of some of the scenery I saw int eh American West last summer.

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    I (almost) made it...and I am tired. Tough choice...do I ride out to the Salar, when I know I will take a tour tomorrow, or do I see it now?

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    I am not very patient...I voted for NOW!

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    I leave the salar and ride on to Uyuni.

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  6. byways

    byways byways

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    2,610
    Location:
    Idaho
    Gosh! That looks an awful lot like eastern Idaho, Alisa. What could that mean?

    Kudos to Twisted Throttle -- a real adventure company for real adventurers.
  7. MotoAdventureGal

    MotoAdventureGal Motorcycle Vagabond

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Gearing up to ride...
    It's not like eastern Idaho at all...

    NO RAIN!!!


    :1drink
  8. byways

    byways byways

    Joined:
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  9. MotoAdventureGal

    MotoAdventureGal Motorcycle Vagabond

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Gearing up to ride...
    May 1, 2010
    When I rolled into town yesterday, I met Rick, a UK fellow doing Round the World (RTW) on his BMW F650 Dakar. (You can see his blog at http://www.dickysworldadventure.blogspot.com/ ) Rick had been on the lookout for a fellow he was supposed to meet up with in Uyuni riding a DR650, so when mine rolled by he whistled me down. I think he was a little surprised when I took off the helmet and revealed my, um, girl-ness.
    We chatted for a bit, then agreed to meet at his hostal at 7 to grab a bit of dinner together. I went off to find a hotel, goofed up on the time, arrived an hour late, an he was gone. Poor me, he was cute! The good news was that the Argentinians from the hotel last night randomly showed up at the same hotel as me again, so I had a nice visit with them.
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    I felt badly blowing off Rick, so this morning I strolled over to his hostal again and found him. We hatched a plan to bypass the tourist tour, and go ourrselves to the train graveyard and to the Salar. Good idea, because we had a BLAST!
    It was one of those super special days, where everything clicked--personalities, riding styles, get-up-and-go on the dirt. I'll show you the pictures here and if you want to read more about hhowmuch fin we had you can click on over to RumBum.com where our fun together inspired a post in my weekly column.
    http://rumbum.com/959-playing-like-kids-in-the-salar
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    The Train Cemetery
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    25 miles of Ripio North to the Salar
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    But Rick finds a dirt track mostly parallel to the road, and we take that. wow. We're chasing each other like likes through the desert. I think it's about as much fun as I have ever had on a motorcycle.
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    Rick has this idea--we need to get a can of Pringles to make out-of-proportion pictures.
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    No pringles, we settle for sardines.
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    Out to the Salar
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    The challenge of the day now is what to do with the sardines...we opt for riding back through town and giving them to a hungry dog.
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    We decide to take the same dirt track back to Uyuni. The llamas are moving across the plain.
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    I am impressed with the garbage landscape. Plastic bags hanging on the scrub brush everywhere...
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    impressive in the 45 mph wind!

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    Back into town for some dinner
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  10. byways

    byways byways

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    Goat fetuses! Yum! I knew there was a South American delicacy I hadn't tried.

    :amazon
  11. MotoAdventureGal

    MotoAdventureGal Motorcycle Vagabond

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Gearing up to ride...
    My impression wasn't that they were for eating but rather for magical purposes....
  12. MotoAdventureGal

    MotoAdventureGal Motorcycle Vagabond

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Gearing up to ride...
    Friday, April 30th

    It was probably a dumb thing to do, but after we finished the bike maintenance, then got some (late!) lunch for ourselves, we decided to leave Uyuni even though it was almost 4:00 in the afternoon. Both Rick and I felt "finished" with Uyuni--we'd had a great time, but both distinctly felt like moving on. It was something I don't think anyone would try on their own--setting off across the desert in the late afternoon--but I guess we were boueyed by the fact that we had someone else to instigate with.

    We filled up the bikes with gas, and ventured down the ripio.

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    Careful with the wildlife...

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    It was a magical afternoon. I was elated to be on the move again, depressing Uyuni behind me, and Rick kept a pace that had me paying pretty good attention to the terrain.

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    The evening light was incredible and I don't think either of us wanted to stop.

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    Well right about the time I was thinking "oh, God, my first night in a tent", it was good-and-dark when we entered this little town. I don't know the name of it, it was just a little village dot on the map, but they had a sign for hospedaje. I stopped, thinking that was a place to stay, but not. Food only. Charming folks, though, and I made a mental note to go back there for dinner if we stayed in that town.

    We found the only place in town to stay, and gave the lady our $2 each. It was a trick getting the bikes into the courtyard and off the street, but we managed. Inside the courtyard were all the farm animals, including two rambunctious boys that charmed our socks off, and the family sheep. It was a mild night and we left the room door open while we fiddled and unpacked, and the boys couldn't stay away. At one point they thought it would be funny to bring us a visitor. That poor sheep!

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    Rick and I joked that night that (good) company makes all the difference--if either of us would have had to stay there alone, it would have been a dismal experience...but somehow with a co-conspirator, it was an "adventure".

    Next morning we were up early and I was surprised at how well I slept, given the straw mattress and frigid desert air.

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    The morning toilette was, er, quick.

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    Rick's bike would not start, so the brothers decided to get it going for him.

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    Um...no jumper cables so Rick, the master electriian (literally--that's his profession in the UK) , improvised with the emergency electrical kit that Twisted Throttle packed me. (Thanks Adam!)

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    [​IMG]

    Well somewhere around the world Rick's Dakar lost the muffle baffles...gave the kids quite a fright! It even woke up the sheep!

    So if you look closely, brother #2 is trying to stick his hand up Rick's tailpipe. We both noticed at the same time and started yelling at him. Poor kid--even more frightening than the bark of Rick's (unmuffled) muffler.


    <object height="385" width="480">


    <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/pA0TS0lLFss&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="385" width="480"></object></p>
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here's Rick trying to get out of the gate;


    <object height="385" width="480">


    <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/fV5gBPexRPY&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="385" width="480"></object></p>
    Packing up.

    [​IMG]
  13. MotoAdventureGal

    MotoAdventureGal Motorcycle Vagabond

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    997
    Location:
    Gearing up to ride...
    May 1, 2010

    It was a cool morning, destination: Sucre. We had about 60 miles of dirt before hitting pavement, and Rick left me in the dust, literally, as he opened it up on the ripio. (He was a good sport, however, and about every 15 minutes I'd find him casually waiting for me).

    [​IMG]

    He got the bleep scared out of him in this S curve--it still makes me laugh. He's a hell of a rider because I don't know how he recovered from the raggedy-ann stunt maneuver he pulled.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Ah, pavement.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    what the?!?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    We got to Sucre and found a place to stay where they'd let us park the bikes inside (literally inside the lobby). Later on a KTM joined our bikes--obviously this hotel knew the drill.

    We went to the Joy Ride Cafe for dinner. Where else would you go for dinner?
  14. MotoAdventureGal

    MotoAdventureGal Motorcycle Vagabond

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    997
    Location:
    Gearing up to ride...
    May 2, 2010

    Next day at breakfast, back at joy Ride cafe, we noticed that they also offered tours...MOTORCYCLE tours! Cool! It was Rick's great idea to hire a tourguide and ride the area without the stress of navigating ourselves.

    We hooked up with Sergio, and told him what we wanted: more bike maintenance in the morning (Rick needed to adjust a front-end rattle and also do some electrical work, I needed to clean my air filter, and install a new horn since the one I installed in Lima rattled off!)

    Sergio took us to the local shop he uses.

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-347.JPG" alt="" />

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-352.JPG" alt="" />

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-357.JPG" alt="" />

    Then we took off with Sergio. Over breakfast we'd decided that we'd ride to the Inca Trail, then follow Sergio on a loop he knew that would give us a good feel for the Sucre area.

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-365.JPG" alt="" />

    Lunch.

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-367.JPG" alt="" />

    Lunchtime entertainment.
    They came and asked for food, so we gave them everything we had not eaten including a couple of sandwiches and cookies.

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-372.JPG" alt="" />

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-373.JPG" alt="" />

    Pretty incredible scenery.

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-406.JPG" alt="" />

    Yup, that's our road!

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-411.JPG" alt="" />

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-416.JPG" alt="" />

    Sergio and Rick are really good riders...it was a job for me to keep up.

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-383.JPG" alt="" />

    I could not keep up. On the way back down the mountain we passed the shepherds again. The fellow didn't seem to notice or to care that he'd already cleaned me out of food. this time he asked for my sunglasses and camera.

    <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/7tA-7nrZZY8&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/7tA-7nrZZY8&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>





    Poor Rick...he's been following Sergio and I for hours. I was tired at this point and didn't want to be a sissy and turn back, but I needed to go slower. I let Rick go ahead from this point on. Poor guy! (But so darned funny I had to take a pic!)

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-387.JPG" alt="" />

    Sergio took us on some single track, but I was too busy with both hands to take pics.

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-390.JPG" alt="" />

    He'd given us a choice...short route back to Sucre or river crossing. RIVER CROSSING! (Bravery in numbers!!!)

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-394.JPG" alt="" />

    We got lucky and were able to watch a car cross in order to gauge the depth...the river was moving f-a-s-t! My largest and deepest water crossing to date!

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-418.JPG" alt="" />

    <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/xA7rooPlftE&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/xA7rooPlftE&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-397.JPG" alt="" />

    Back to Sucre.

    <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/6YTZgKC4D_g&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/6YTZgKC4D_g&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-402.JPG" alt="" />

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-403.JPG" alt="" />

    Wow. This was the most fun I'd had on m y trip since that day in El Salvador with Mario. I was re-pumped about my trip, excitement overriding the trip weariness I'd been experiencing lately, absolutely in love with my trip again. Thanks Rick and Sergio!!!

    &lt;&gt;
  15. MotoAdventureGal

    MotoAdventureGal Motorcycle Vagabond

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    997
    Location:
    Gearing up to ride...
    May 3, 2010

    Goodbye Rick.

    Gosh, I'd had so much fun with him...he was great company--easy to be with, an awesome rider, and an instigator like me and we kept pushing each others' envelopes. We'd had a great time together, but since we were headed in opposite directions (him North, me South) it was time to say goodbye. A break in traffic outside the hotel and I was off.

    Need to make a call?

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-421.JPG" alt="" />

    I had to show all the bike paperwork here for the nice policeman.

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-424.JPG" alt="" />

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-425.JPG" alt="" />

    Bad piggy!

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-429.JPG" alt="" />

    Pavement ends, back to <em>ripio</em>...

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-432.JPG" alt="" />

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-434.JPG" alt="" />

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-436.JPG" alt="" />

    Yeah baby, I forgot to mention my Bolivian luck...Air Hawk found out that I was riding all these miles on a STOCK SEAT, and they sent me a cushion to La Paz. Yeah! salvation for those achey buns!

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-437.JPG" alt="" />

    Wow. Serious landslide.

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-439.JPG" alt="" />

    Uck. rain. Off and On all day. I'm soaked, even though my gear is supposed to be waterproof.

    <img src="http://www.motoadventuregal.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/SA_Trip_Bolivia-441.JPG" alt="" />

    Miserable, I stop in Monteagudo. A strange little town that has all sorts of mining supplies in every little store...also selling lots of alcohol. Why alcohol? (Like the sterilizing kind.) I ask someone, and am told, in case they get cut or want to drink it! Oofa.

    My hotel had a girl working that didn't care too much. I bumped and banged into all the lobby furniture to get the bike inside--she was too busy watching her soap opera to help me.

    I'm not happy with this place...there are two people in the hotel an they manage to put us right next to each other. There is no divider at the top of the wall, so I get to listen to my neighbor snore while the TV blares it's evil noise. Just when I hit the REM sleep, his alarm goes off. WHAT?!? He get up, lights on, get ready and leaves. Phew Thank goodness. I just hit the REM sleep again when he's BACK, this time with 114 kids and a woman that yells at them constantly...
  16. MotoAdventureGal

    MotoAdventureGal Motorcycle Vagabond

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    997
    Location:
    Gearing up to ride...
    In order not to repeat myself here, I'll re-post the link to my Chaco experience I wrote about on RumBum.com

    http://rumbum.com/953-a-night-in-the-chaco#continue_post

    This tree is called the "palo borracho", the drunken stick. The engorged trunk is actually a lifesaver for the tree: when the rains come, the tree stores water reserves in the trunk. I'd smile every time I saw one (which was quite often!)

    [​IMG]

    Crappy night's sleep, but the Chaco is an incredible place. Here are some of the sounds the next morning:

    <object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" height="385" width="480">



    <embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/xRIx57MJL0U&hl=en_US&fs=1&" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="385" width="480"></object>
  17. Oldwin1

    Oldwin1 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,131
    Location:
    Front Range
    I met Mr Twisty from Twisted Throttle at the National Vstrom rally in Montrose Colorado and it reminded me of your ride report. I have not been following you very closely for quite a few months. For some reason my employer thinks I should work instead of reading ride reports. :lol3 Just wanted to say it is good to see you still going. My big question is how is it to still be on the road after all this time?

    Enjoy the ride. Wish it was me.
    Ron
  18. themobb

    themobb Is this thing on???

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2002
    Oddometer:
    504
    Location:
    Hooksett, NH
    Go, Go MAG! :clap :clap :clap


    Lance
  19. Timmer

    Timmer Curious Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,269
    Location:
    Burien, WA
    The last couple of days have probably not been good ones to ask that question. I'm sure details will come out later.</snipped></snipped>
  20. MotoAdventureGal

    MotoAdventureGal Motorcycle Vagabond

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    997
    Location:
    Gearing up to ride...
    Well, I've been a little behind in reporting...technically I'm back in the States trying to finish up the report...

    I've been on the road for over a year now...wow. To be perfectly honest, I am road-weary. I find myself lingering places that are comfortable, and not getting too excited about the spectacular things I am seeing. I think I need to get good and bored for a while to get a fresh perspective...:D