For those of you who donât follow the âthumperâ forum, Part 1 demonstrates how to change dirt tires, with tubes. The process is very similar, so itâs worth checking out here. I've placed Part 2 in "Blood, Sweat, and Gears" as it seemed non-model specific and probably read by a wide audience. But, if this is not the right forum, please feel free to move it, mods. The pictures for this round are not as good. Iâll try again next time. But they should still serve to get the general idea across. A few words about philosophy: 1) You are not stronger than the tire. You are (or should be, anyway) smarter than the tire. If you find yourself having to use very much force, the tire is outsmarting you and you need to change your technique. Donât reach for a longer tire iron: instead, think about what you are trying to do and how to position things so that the force you can exert will be most effective at that task. 2) The basic problem of changing a tire is that the bead is smaller in circumference than the outside of the rim. However, the inside of the rim is dished, and if you keep the bead opposite where you are working with tire irons down in the dish of the rim, you will find tire changing an easy and quick experience. If the bead is not in the dish, you will not pass go, you will not collect $200. Using more force will result in a broken tire bead, which will result in throwing the tire away. 3) Changing tires is easy. I changed both tires in the pictures in about an hour, including taking pictures and drinking beer, using nothing more than the kickstand of another bike to break the bead, a couple of tire irons, and an air compressor. Donât be afraid of this job- just pay attention to the work you are doing, take it easy, and enjoy the satisfaction of not paying a shop to screw your bike up. 4) The tires being changed are on a BMW R1100 GS, but the same techniques will work for all tubeless tires, from sportbikes on down. I am NOT an expert at preventing rim scratches, so if you care about your paint, you are on your own. I think you can slide some plastic between the tire iron and your rimâ¦ if someone wants to add to this with good info on how to prevent scratches, please, fire away. I like to change tires using the new (or old) tire as a base. This will keep the sprockets and brake disks out of the dirt, and keeping it low to the floor makes it easy to stand on the opposite side of the tire from where you are working, to keep the bead down in the dish. I also like the Motion Pro Tire Irons shown in the pics. They are cheap, and the curve of the tips is good. The length is not important- these same techniques will work just as well with 6" trailside tire irons. Weâll assume that you are able to get the wheel off your bike, so weâll start from that point. Without further ado: Step 1: Let the air out, by removing the valve core. You want the tire to offer no more resistance than necessary as you break the bead, so simply letting the air out but leaving the core in will not work. Step 2: Break the tire bead, on both sides. This is the hardest part of the process. You can use a c-clamp, or a motorcycle parked on its sidestand as I am here, or there are any number of commercial bead breakers available. To protect in the case of a flat, roadgoing wheels usually have a secondary inner lip that prevents the tire from falling into the dish. This second lip is what makes breaking road tires so difficult. Use lubricant if need be- Iâve been known to squirt a little WD-40 into the gap between rim and tire. Be patient, and if you arenât able to get a good bite with one method, try another. Here, Iâm standing on the peg of my XR to get more weight on the bead. Once the bead breaks in one spot, it will be easy to push it down the rest of the way around the wheel. In this picture, Iâm pushing the bead in by hand: You can also use the irons to help you: Once you get the first side, turn the tire over and repeat. Relax, this is the worst part. Step 3: Insert tire irons, while pushing down on the opposite side of the tire. Because the tire has spent itâs whole life seated to the outer edge of the rim, it will try to return there as you begin working on it. So, your job is to keep shoving the bead down into the dish. The best way Iâve found is to insert 2 tire irons, about 6â apart, and when pulling gently on them, to stand on the opposite side of the tire. The tension created by the tire irons will help force the bead to fall into the center of the rim, as seen here: (Yes, the picture sucks. But you can still see that the portions of the bead that are not directly hit by the tire irons are way down in the rim, and take my word for it that Iâm standing on the opposite edge). Step 4: Work off the first side of the tire, placing the tire irons a few inches ahead each time. Step 5: Move the second side of the tire over to the same side of the rim as the first side came off, using the tire iron as shown. Step 6: Work off the second side of the tire, using a second tire iron to push the bead off. Once you are about 1/3rd of the way around the tire, the rim should simply pull free. Congratulations, the worst is behind you. Next installment- getting the new rubber on, and seating the bead.