Neduro's Tire Changing Class

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by neduro, Aug 24, 2004.

  1. Spyrious

    Spyrious Want to go offroad

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    Some guys told me its good to cut a little groove on the lever so it helps when installing the tire to help prevent punching the tube.Any input on this?Thanks
  2. Grreatdog

    Grreatdog Long timer Supporter

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    I did use a Sawzall to remove one of those horrible old Maxxis M6006 rear tires. The bead cable looked like it came off a crane.

    I hated those tires and they came on my last two used bikes. I just wasn't having it with the second one and went straight to the power tools.

    DSCF0014-2.jpg
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  3. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    tenor.gif
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  4. k-moe

    k-moe Long timer

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    +1
    Lube is your friend. Most of the battle changing a tire is becuse of how well the rubber grips the rim when you need it to slide over the edge.
  5. Mat

    Mat Long timer Supporter

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    This, long levers and don't wait with changing to Winter tires until Winter when you don't have a heated garage.

    Seriously, warm tires are so much easier to mount and dismount.

    Keep your tube at the right inflation during work. Not too much, but still round. That way they tend to stay out of the way.
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  6. dhally

    dhally Hammerhead Supporter

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    I would have done that already except the tire is only half worn out. I'll try some heat and lube.
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  7. Don Coyote

    Don Coyote Long timer

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    The question becomes do you take the second sidewall off over it's own side of the rim or make it follow the other side. Seems intuitive to follow the other side, but I've done it both ways and can't recall which works better. Both were painful but I didn't think to go with the lube on removal...
  8. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Socially Distant Supporter

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    Xtra Seal Euro Paste is what I finally settled on. Soapy water corrodes the hell out of aluminum rims. RuGlyde evaporates too quickly on hot days and makes a big mess. Euro Paste stays where you put it and stays slippery long enough to fight with a stubborn tire, coming off or going on. I keep a pill bottle of it in the tool roll for trail-side emergencies. It's good shit. 16 bucks for a lifetime supply.
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  9. sgroover

    sgroover Been here awhile

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    I used the large zip-tie method (HF with coupon) and have successfully changed the front and rear on both of my bikes. I'm sold on this technique for removing the old and installing the new. My KLR (tubed) and BMW RT (tubeless) are happy girls with their new shoes. YMMV

    Sammy
  10. dhally

    dhally Hammerhead Supporter

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    Success...

    I was having problems getting the second bead off, Its a Shinko 705 150-18 (tubeless with tube) mounted on a rim that's too narrow. (Rim Meant for 140 tube type)

    Used Windex and removed the second bead off the OTHER side. Then turned the rim 90d. and it was easy to lever off.

    Neduro's thread comes through again!
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  11. Nathan_66

    Nathan_66 Been here awhile

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    I'll try windex on the other side tomorrow...arrgh!


    IMG_0122_rsz.jpg
  12. Nathan_66

    Nathan_66 Been here awhile

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    Well I guess it's a fact of life that some tires have to be cut off...on both sides. Tried the windex. Then put two boards on both sides of rim, drove my truck up it a bit, then hammered on boards with a sledge hammer. Bead did not budge. Tire is at least 10yrs old so that probably has a lot to do with it. Thanks for the tips, they did help. Much appreciated!
  13. Dessert Storm

    Dessert Storm Dances With Drunks

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    This great thread is still tire changing 101! :clap

    One question: when mounting the second side of the tire, I understand that the bead must sit in the well opposite the point at which you are working. But does this mean just the bead of the side of the tire you are working on, or both beads including the side already fully mounted?
  14. Navin

    Navin Long timer

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    Apply it about 6-8mm from the tip, then in use, feel it click on the rims edge. Very effective.
  15. Nathan_66

    Nathan_66 Been here awhile

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    atv tires are a PITA! Did the front tire today, after an initial futile attempt and realizing it was just as stuck on as the rear tire I went and fired up the truck! And borrowed wife's car to hold the tire down on other side.

    make sure you have boards underneath both sides of tire, at least 1/4" away from rim, so rim is not crushed/pressed against the bottom. And the top board ends are at least 1/4" away from rim.
    IMG_0137_rsz.jpg

    Bead still didn't break but the inner lip was well exposed for ez cutting with a Dremel disc cutter. Then it pops right off. Make sure you are wearing glasses and gloves, all kinds of crap can hit the fan...as usual. Was anticlimactic, made some interesting 'ready to blow' noises then a little grinding pop and that was the end of the drama.
    IMG_0141_rsz.jpg

    I flipped the tire and did same thing on other side. Then after all done told wife what her car was used for, her eyes got real big. Then the drama started up again lol
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  16. deguoren

    deguoren 该出手时就出手

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    My technic needs some improvement, but one thing I cant manage alone: getting the very last bit of tire back over the rim, into its place. I use 2 short and 1 long tire irons and washing liquid to "grease" the tire. With two people we just trample it back in, but alone no chance. Stiff tires like Annakke Wild or Mitas E7. Any tips?
    PS: Chris Birch method to lift rear tire tried today, works well.
    View attachment 2643225

    Attached Files:

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  17. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    I've mounted an E7 and the only "tip" is to make sure the bead opposite the section you're trying to get over the rim is dropped into the center. It's not an easy tire to mount, but it shouldn't take two people.
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  18. KMM696

    KMM696 Devout Agnostic

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    I'm having a ongoing slow leak problem at the bead with an E7 I mounted. I've popped the bead off, cleaned, relubed and reseated several times and it's gotten better, but not gone away. Since moto storage season is fast approaching here, taking the tire off is first on the list of maintenance projects. I'm starting to think either the bead on the tire might be damaged or the seating surface on the rim. Any visual indicators to look for to confirm? Damaged tire bead is straightforward enough to deal with, but if there is corrosion or damage on the rim, how do I fix that?

    Thanks

    Kevin
  19. ktmmule

    ktmmule Been here awhile

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    I bought a new Woody's wheel works front wheel for my GS with an Excel rim. I could not get the tire to seal at the weld on the bead. I was to paranoid to take a Dremel to it. They advised me to use tire bead sealer at that spot. It worked. I got it at Napa. Interesting enough I have mounted tires since and they sealed.
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  20. Nathan_66

    Nathan_66 Been here awhile

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    Jam your knee down on the opposite end to press the bead down to the center. I've found that using a clamp helps the bead from popping out in the beginning and at the same time keeping the bead closer to the center of the rim at the end.
    IMG_0190.JPG
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