Need a bigger walk thru interior door

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Xsv, Aug 10, 2019.

  1. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    My shop is 60 x 30. The front area is 38 x 30 with 15 1/2 foot ceilings. The rear is 22 x 30 with 8 foot ceilings. It is heated with radiant floor heat with different zones front and rear. I typically keep the rear area warmer in the winter and having 8 foot ceilings makes it a bit brighter to work in. The two areas are separated with a 3-0 man door.

    I’d like to be able to move my motorcycles to the rear to work on in the winter, but they are too wide to go through the door. I’d like to have about 42” to get the bikes in and out. I have room to the right of the current door to make it wider. (Will have to move light switches)

    So what is the most economical way to do this non-standard door size?
    I was leaning towards making my own barn door and hanging it. Any other ideas?


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    #1
  2. gsweave

    gsweave Yinz, blinkers are on, JACKWAD! Super Supporter

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    Mahogany Grain 42"X80" Traditional Dutch Entry Door. 9-Lite SDL Frosted Glass. Jeld-Wen A5944. Split Finish, Factory Painted
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  3. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    I appreciate the suggestion, but am guessing this doesn’t meet the “economical “ part of my solution
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  4. lkraus

    lkraus Long timer

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    I used a double door for the woodworking area of my garage, 72" wide. The second door has been useful, but I really only need it about 2-3 times a year. I can still use the "swing area" behind it to store movable items, usually the shop vac and trash can. A 42" door needs a lot of area to open.

    You might look for used doors at your local Habitat ReStore to keep the cost down.
    doors.jpg
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  5. ArielNut

    ArielNut Been here awhile

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    Hard for me to tell if that is a bearing wall or not...If it is a bearing wall you will need to put a longer header in. As you mentioned, the wiring needs to be relocated so you might as well carry the header over to the next wall stud (approx 16") and put your sliding barn door on...
    #5
  6. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    There is a second floor above the rear portion of the shop so this is a bearing wall.
    Is there a normal distance that the barn door hangs away from the wall? I am guessing with the radiant floor heat the gaps really don’t matter as much.

    The other side of the door would prohibit me from doing a double door as there is a closet (under the stairs) on one side and a bathroom door on the other.( sorry I should have included that in the original post)


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  7. DonM

    DonM Do-dah Do-dah Supporter

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    How about a removable panel of plywood just screwed into a frame with a door strike for the existing door. Barn door would be ideal if you have space to slide to one side.
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  8. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    Often things that occur in the shop is a testing ground for things at the house. Looks like I can build a distressed pine barn door (I have the room) with hardware for about $100. Will post up when it is done!
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  9. the_gr8t_waldo

    the_gr8t_waldo Long timer

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    what ever you do, you're going to have to address the header..if it were me, I think I'd hang a barn slider type..
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  10. tomrux

    tomrux Been here awhile

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    What about a smallish pocket slider?

    Cheers Tom R
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  11. markk53

    markk53 jack of all trades...

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    FWIW I had a 42" door on my garage, worked great rolling bikes in and backing out the door. Bikes were an 83 GL1100 naked Wing, CB750SC Nighthawk S, and KLX650C. I heartily recommend a 42" door size, it was close, but no problem. A 48" would be cool, but that's some serious space requirement.

    We just used a pre-hung metal framed garage access door. Perfect. Fact is if I built a house I'd put in a 42" entry door in it so furniture would be easier to deal with in moving, etc. Amazing what an extra 6" in width allows.
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  12. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    Are there concerns about fire rating or fumes getting through that opening? It looks like the current door is metal with a seal.
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  13. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    Also, is that a shower valve to select the water temp of the hose water? Brilliant.
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  14. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    That door was left over from when we built the house so it was just available, but good eye on your part!
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  15. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    Yes it is. I planned well on that, just not on the door:dirtdog
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  16. Dave in Wi

    Dave in Wi Long timer

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    I’m late to this thread as it looks like your decision is made. A couple of disadvantages of barn type doors. They take up a lot of wall space beside the opening to allow it to open. With the size of your shop it may not matter, but in smaller spaces the wall space might be at s premium. The other thing is, there is not a good way to get a seal. Air, fumes, dust and noise may have easy passage. Just a few things to keep in mind.
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  17. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    I have plenty of wall space. I hear you on the seal. I see where some people have used weatherstripping, although that is not in my plans.
    It is typically just me in the shop and I don’t think this those issues will be to big of deal for this application. Maybe I should make my opening the same size as I would need for a 48 inch double door....just in case I hate the barn door.

    Oh well for now I am pressing forward with the barn door with a fresh load of lumber I just bought from Home Depot......time to go distress it a bit:jack
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  18. muddywater

    muddywater Bless Your Heart

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  19. muddywater

    muddywater Bless Your Heart

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  20. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    New wood purchased, distressed (was actually fun), cut and assembled with glue and “wrought nails”. Will be several weeks before I enlarge my door opening, replace header, move electrical to new location and hang door. Will post Picts when finished.


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