Need a bigger walk thru interior door

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Xsv, Aug 10, 2019.

  1. rob1313

    rob1313 Still learning

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    If that door is a rated door. And by that I mean designed to hold back a car fire from the rest of your home (not to mention fumes etc) you could have a problem with insurance unless you replace it with a door or assembly of the same rating. That being said it is your home.
    #21
  2. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    It is an outbuilding that is located about 150 feet from my home. It is a shop not used for living accommodations. The reason a steel door was originally installed is because I had it leftover from house construction

    Yes I did actually rock and tape all the walls and put down a tile (think Walmart) style floor. The couch is something my dogs will sleep on when they are hanging out with me.:clap

    At first glance u could get the impression I live there!
    #22
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  3. DirtyDaveMO

    DirtyDaveMO Adventurer Supporter

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    If you lived by KC I could give you a couple of choices for free doors. My friend is a trim carpenter and asks me all the time if I need a door. I have a few sitting in my shed.
    I'm not a hoarder.
    #23
  4. DirtyDaveMO

    DirtyDaveMO Adventurer Supporter

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    I have a double door in my shop going into the unheated part of my shed. I think it is 5' total and hardly every open the fixed door. A single fixed door will seal much better if that is a factor.
    #24
  5. mnmlst

    mnmlst mnmlst

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    #25
  6. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    I guess it cold have been worse. I had planned to move all that electrical to the right side of the door, but changed my mind. I’d have all kinds of blank boxes if I extended the wiring. This should work. The king stud will be almost against those single gang boxes. It looks like my opening will be about 45 inches after everything is finished out. Should work to get the bikes in the back!:-)
    Probably frame it out and put in new header tomorrow.


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    #26
  7. Rick1952

    Rick1952 Adventurer

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    Looks like that you will need to notch the top left corner of the header and modify the king studs to avoid the electrical or move the electrical going thru the floor/ceiling assembly.
    #27
  8. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    Removing the electrical wasn’t going to happen, so I notched:-) I was able to get the wires to run flat on top of each other to minimize the notch.


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    #28
  9. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    I am going to try and mount the door without a header board. Looks like I can drill out about a 1 inch diameter hole the thickness (1/2”) of the sheetrock and use a steel standoff so that I have no pressure (crushing) Sheetrock and should get my door fairly close to the opening. I might try to use some weather stripping to help eliminate some air losses in the winter. The back, smaller portion, of the shop is normally kept at 60 and the larger portion of the shop at 50 degrees during the winter. I will see how it pans out, but your suggestion may be something I hang just for the winter months.
    #29
  10. mnmlst

    mnmlst mnmlst

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    Be sure to post pics of the blue tarp after you get it up with the office stapler...
    #30
  11. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    Okay???:hmmmmm Quite obviously I am a “blue tarp” and stapler kind of guy
    #31
  12. mnmlst

    mnmlst mnmlst

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    Just teasin’...

    You should be done by now!
    #32
  13. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    I am a bit slow on the mudding, but it’s slowly coming along!
    #33
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  14. mnmlst

    mnmlst mnmlst

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    ... did you insulate around the door frame?
    #34
  15. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    I worked a little back in the small cavity.
    #35
  16. mnmlst

    mnmlst mnmlst

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    Whatever door you chose, sealing from drafts is what you want to be worried about to keep the heat from creeping out of the warm area
    #36
  17. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    It will be the barn door posted on this thread. The two different parts of the shop are heated via radiant floor heat in 2 zones. I will See how much I am cycling heat in the rear portion this winter and than address it if need be.

    This will be the first full winter of retirement so I will probably spend more time down there. It looks like the slated plastic strips can be done at an affordable price, but we will see.
    #37
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  18. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    With some creativity, you might be able to make the barn door seal fairly well. Position the track is just slightly not parallel to the wall, so as the door opens, it moves away from the wall slightly. Then as the door approaches closed position, it will be moving closer to the wall. Work it so the door finishes fairly snug against some trim. Use some weather stripping if needed. Picture how a van sliding door works.
    #38
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  19. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    Unfortunately, hanging without a header board was not going to happen. Nonetheless it is close to being done. Gap is more than I really wanted. (Damn header). Might just do the plastic slates in the winter months.


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    #39
  20. MrBob

    MrBob In the makeout room. Supporter

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    When I installed a frosted glass barn door in a bathroom entry I first horizontally mounted a 8’ long 1”x 6” maple board, glued and screwed, to the wall above the doorway. The barn door hardware fastened to it.
    I was able to get the glass 1/8” away from trim around the door.
    #40