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Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by GS-A-Day, Apr 12, 2017.
Great videos. Thank you for adding them!
Sorry for the delay in responding. Sorry to hear that, but it was what I expected. Keep us posted with what you come up with.
Anyone have a guide on spark plug changes? I know it's an NGK LMAR8J-9E, but how to best access the plugs, and what torque spec?
Mounted on the factory crash dangerously exposed. The wire came with the Denali CanSmart is very short split. Going to order extensions soon.
What am I missing here ?? 2019 850 GSA.
The headlight seems to be Unattached at the top. It is fine at speed as the wind holds it back in place but around town or on rough roads it’s like a strobe light ☹️ I can’t see anything broken or loose.
I can’t seem to upload my video. Any input would be appreciated. Tks
Mine is stable. The next one that comes I will look closely before installing windshield and mounting parts, if I remember. May have something loose.
This doesn't sound normal. You should take it to the dealer and have it checked under warranty...
I’ve confirmed the top mounts have came detached. They looked like a rubber stop behind the light bracket so I wasn’t sure. Parts are on the way. Thanks
How do you get the #$%@* key fob apart to change the battery? The owner's manual says press the button and let the blade pop out and push the cover "UP" up as in where and how? Does the cover slide as I would think?
If it's like their car fobs, just get a butter knife and pry it apart.
Surely there is a youtube of it?
Yes there is a good YouTube video that makes it simple. I to fought it at first.
Got this from the FB group, FYI
“I've put together an oil change guide that I hope will be helpful to those of us that like to do our own maintenance...at least until a proper service manual is available. Please let me know what you think and provide any suggestions that may make this better. Thank you and enjoy.
BMW F750GS OIL CHANGE
BMW Recommended Oil: BMW Motorrad ADVANTEC ULTIMATE Original BMW Engine Oil 5W-40 Synthetic Engine Oil (3 Liters).
1 x 16mm OEM Copper Crush Ring (BMW Stock # 07 11 9 963 252) Note: Replace Every Oil Change.
1 x OEM Oil Filter (BMW Stock # 11 42 7 721 779) Note: The Short Oil Filter Is Replaced By A Long Oil Filter During The Running In Check.
Note: As An Alternative You May Choose To Use Any Engine Oil That Meets The Following Standard: SAE 5W-40 API SL/JASO MA2.
Step 1: Remove M16x1.5 Drain Plug Using A T50 Torx Socket And Drain The Oil.
Step 2: Remove Sealing Ring (Copper Crush Ring).
Step 3: Remove The M10x1 Oil Filler Plug Using A 5mm Hexagon Socket And Drain The Oil. Note: This Plug Is Directly Above The Main Drain Plug And Must Be Removed To Drain All Of The Engine Oil.
Step 4: Remove The Oil Filter (Long Oil Filter Wrench BM Stock # 11 4 650)
Note: The Short Oil Filter Is Replaced By A Long Oil Filter During The Running In Check. (Short Oil Filter Wrench BMW Stock # 11 4 661).
Step 5: Clean The Oil Filter Sealing Face And Lubricate With Clean Engine Oil.
Step 6: Install New Oil Filter Using Oil Filter Wrench # 11 4 650 (Torque To 11Nm or 8.11 ft-lb).
Step 7: Install The M10x1 Oil Filler Plug Using A 5mm Hexagon Socket (Torque To 10Nm or 7.37 ft-lb).
Step 8: Install The M16x1.5 Drain Plug With New Sealing Ring (Copper Crush Ring) Using A T50 Torx Socket (Torque To 25Nm or 18.43 ft-lb).
Step 9: Remove The Oil Dipstick And Fill The Engine With Engine Oil (Engine Oil Capacity With Filter Change Is Approximately 3.0 Liters. Engine Oil Capacity Without Filter Change Is Approximately 2.7 Liters).
Step 10: Install The Oil Dipstick And Run Motorcycle For Approximately 30 Seconds To Allow Oil To Circulate Then Turn Off The Motorcycle And Add Remaining Oil. Remove The Oil Dip To Check The Oil In Accordance With The Owner’s Manual.
Note: (From Owner’s Manual)
* Only Check The Oil Level After A Longer Journey Or When The Engine Is Warm.
* Wipe The Area Around The Oil Filler Opening Clean.
* Allow The Engine To Idle Until The Fan Starts Up, Then Allow It To Idle One Minute Longer.
* Switch Off The Engine.
* Make Sure Ground Is Level And Firm And Hold Motorcycle At Operating Temperature Vertically (With Center Stand).
* Wait Five Minutes To Allow Oil To Drain Into The Oil Pan.
* Remove Oil Level Dipstick And Clean Measuring Range With A Dry Cloth.
* Fit The Oil Level Dipstick Onto The Oil Filler Opening, However Do Not Screw It In.
* Remove The Oil Level Dipstick And Check Oil Level (Oil Level Should Be Between The MIN and MAX Marks). Note: Difference Between MIN and MAX Marks Is 0.5 Liters Of Oil.
* Re-Install The Oil Dipstick When Complete.”
F750 low has no center stand. Really annoying Bmw didn’t give us one.
Are there any hand guards available for the F 850GSA that are just able to bolt on without any risers or serious modifications make them fit? The Bark Buster VPS kit for the F850 GS does not fit the GSA from reading the responses of other users. I am trying to avoid adding risers, which means I can not use the MachineartMoto hand guards either. The Hepco & Becker Handlebar Guards don’t seem to work either.
Any help in pointing to the direction I could go would be so helpful.
I agree. Chain maintenance is a bitch without a center stand.
Still waiting on the SW-MOTECH center stand for lowered bikes to arrive in the US. I'm on Twisted Throttle's notification list whenever they manage to snag a few to sell....
Same! Since our lowered F750 won't be anything more than a fire-roads bike, I don't mind putting the center stand on it and losing a couple of inches of clearance.
How long, oh lord, how long?
For anyone that's interested, I can give a bit of a report on my 20,000km+ F850GS, and some equipment I mounted to it. I have a bit of time... I crashed my 850 hard enough that I heavily damaged my foot, I've been completely off it for 2 months and I have another month to go before I can start rehab. After my crash I rode my bike 950km home in rain, snow and even hail - it rode fine. I looked it over briefly since, everything looks good, there's really no perceptible damage.
My 850 has over 20,000km, more than half of that non pavement. Everything from high grade gravel to bolder and root strewn single track. I'll call it 10,000km of dirt. It's been to Denali, Prudhoe Bay, Tuktoyaktuk, all over the Canadian Rockies and the complete Washington BDR. It's been around. My longest day was over 1400km. I usually random camp in the wilderness right off my bike so it's usually loaded up - and I'm 6'2" - over 250lbs.
SW Motech panniers and top case c/w brackets.
Black Dog skid plates and foot pegs.
Hepco Becker upper and lower crash bars.
Ram X-Grip phone mount.
Touratech tank bag.
Alt rider headlight protector.
Sheepskin seat cover.
I built my own screen over the rad to keep clay out of the fins, and the fan motor. I have a lot of experience riding in the Arctic and I've had issues with this on previous trips. So I built a 'cleanable' screen.
I made and welded on my own larger side stand foot.
It's been fantastic. I have 7 motorcycles, from an H2 to a YSR-50 - and although my 850 isn't my favourite, it's damn close. So far it's had the seat latch and air filter recall and regular service. My only real problem has been the chain guard. The front 'expanding rivet' keeps failing. Once I can walk again I'm going to fix that damn thing once and for all. I lube my chain every evening when travelling but my chain and sprockets should be replaced. I'll get that done along with another full service over the winter. I find the bike comfortable and suitable for the riding I'm doing. Lots of pavement, lots of gravel, a fair bit of 2 track and single track.
The SW Motech stuff has been good. They're still water tight and solid. I did have a pannier bracket failure in the middle of nowhere but I managed to get to a small town where I found a welder to repair it. At that point the bike had never been down but it had done a lot of brutal wash board road. One of the pannier lid tethers broke shortly after install. I have the locks and I wish I could latch the panniers but leave them unlocked. That's my only complaint. If there's a Black Friday Sale I'll be buying a full set of Mosko Moto bags this week. I want smaller bags for the tight stuff. I'll keep the SW Motech bags for more road orientated trips.
The Black Dog skid plates and foot pegs are epic. Love them. It's top quality, excellent gear.
The Hepco Becko crash bars were easy to install and have protected my bike perfectly.
My Ram X-Grip has been secure and solid. I like that I can see that my phone is secure with the 'corner elastics'. It gives me visual confidence that my phone is safe.
My Garmin has become a buddy to me. No cell coverage issues, no weather issues, no data issues. I just load my GPX in and follow the track. I constantly use it to help with fuel range. I plot my next gas stop against my range on the TFT.
My Bark Busters have paid for themselves. It was a tricky install with the TFT, but some washers at the end of the handlebars and a little filing and they're perfect.
My Touratech tank bag was a waste of money. I love riding with tank bags but the Touratech unit fits like crap. I'll either switch it out or get busy with a sewing machine to make it fit better. I did 'flip' the BMW Garmin mount to make more room for it - which worked very well.
The Altrider mesh headlight protector looks great and so far has protected my headlight.
I've used a sheepskin seat pad for about 20 years. I don't know if it helped or not but I was comfortable for as long as I could stay awake.
My rad screen worked perfectly. It caught clay and was easily cleaned.
My enlarged side stand foot worked perfectly.
Besides maintenance, before next season I'm hoping to add Mosko Moto panniers (if there's a Black Friday sale) and probably Double Take mirrors.
I enlarged my side stand foot.
I call my bike 'Big Foot'.
Dude. That is epic. Extremely nice to hear that these machines can take a beating and rack up the miles. And no big issues. I won't ever put that much wear on mine, but hoping it will handle all I do throw at it with ease.
Thanks for the accessory reviews! Much appreciated as I decide how to outfit mine.