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Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by GS-A-Day, Apr 12, 2017.
Sounds like front-bottom of engine to me, so hard to tell because its not constant, only random.
Fuel Efficiency - MPG on my F850GS
So for the first time I paid some closer attention to my fuel efficiency than just noting the tank mileage at fill up (I've seen anywhere from 175 - 220 miles per tank). I did some experimenting on a ride Sunday with various speeds and the diff ride modes too.
First off, I am shocked how much difference your cruising speed on the highway makes in fuel economy! For each segment I used cruise control and the elevation changes were roughly similar for each. I reset the Trip1 Fuel Economy between each portion.
Here is what I saw cruising on the interstate for ~5-10 mins in each phase, in ROAD mode:
78mph - 38 mpg !
68mph - 47 mpg
I exited and rode a state route for a while at varying slower speed, all 6th with a bit of 5th gear:
55-60mph - 58mpg
Then I hit the mountains and the dirt roads, 2nd-4th gear Forest Service gravel roads in ENDURO PRO mode, but riding very easy:
~30mph - 58mpg (note- I did not reset before this section, but it didn't change at all over the course of 25 miles of dirt riding)
On the way home I also did more 55-60 riding and maintained the 58mpg until I wicked it up on a more major route and quickly saw my cumulative mpg drop to 56.5 or so.
IMO 20mpg is a huge difference! Of course my sportbikes varied but never by more than 5mpg no matter how I rode them (excluding race track). When I first saw 38mpg on the dash I couldn't help but think that I really needed to get it checked out at the first major service... But once I saw I could achieve 58, the conclusion I came to is aerodynamics. This bike is likely nowhere as sleek and this shows that matters a lot. (Drag increases by the speed squared)
*Edit - for comparison my 1 liter twin sportbike got 42-45mpg pretty steadily.
* This Is Important on Long Trips * - It means the lazy back road range of 220 is barely 150 on a high speed interstate trip! Does anyone have better record keeping to confirm?
I suppose this is better than having a poor range on back roads were there are less fuel stations...
In another post I saw SnoDrtRider mention he gets better mileage in ROAD mode than DYNAMIC which makes sense. On the highway portion above I didn't see that much of a difference but I didn't do a full fledged test. The speed seemed to make far more difference than the mode at constant speeds - BUT DYNAMIC mode might burn lots more fuel when your varying your speed a lot, and intermittently decelerating-accelerating. Maybe he has more scientific measurements on this.
We took a ride to Maryland for lunch on Sunday (150 Miles round trip) and it was the first time I had both the ride mode and suspension mode in Dynamic... Let me tell you... unless you are on smooth roads stick with "Road" mode in the suspension settings because in Dynamic you feel every joint in the pavement. The Dynamic ride mode did use more fuel but it was worth it!
Meanwhile I’m in dynamic mode hauling ass every chance I get. I swear the happy place for my bike is at 83mph
Why do you have the speeding ticket to prove it?
I am pretty much always in dynamic/road suspension or enduro. At 3700 miles my average is 57mog with a minimum of 45 and a max of 70.
Am wondering if anyone's experienced this issue with 850 GSA. Was returning from a 2000+ mile loop. Did some great sections on the NMBDR and the AZBDR, along with some great paved twisties. Was 500 miles from home and the GSA started to stall very hard at speed (80mph). Was cutting ignition, fuel or both. A few times got a warning saying the engine control unit had malfunctioned. When I would pull over and shut the bike off, the warning would clear and the bike would run fine. Then 30 miles later, the same thing would happen. Used good fuel and even added a little octane booster once. Went through a few tanks of gas during this situation so any bad gas would have cleared.
Stopped in at the El Paso BMW dealership. They were very accommodating. They found the negative battery terminal was a bit loose and performed a very lengthy update to the bike. Got back on the road and 30 miles later, the stalling hit again. The bike is at my local dealer now, but would appreciate any insight anyone had.
Bad fuel pump? Filter? ECU?
"Meanwhile I’m in dynamic mode hauling ass every chance I get. I swear the happy place for my bike is at 83mph"
It's weird, I think I ride this bike more conservatively and rarely rev it out over 6K... It doesn't feel like the kind of bike that would be ridden at the extreme. Maybe my 50/50 tires have something to do with it.
I guess the way you think about something has great influence on your "reality".
I do know I need some off-road training to get over the hump, I don't like getting this big bike loose...
Don’t you put that bad juju on me
Yeah I def don’t find myself reving it out either. The engine doesn’t sound so good up there compared to the boxer that’s for sure. I too think I need an off road class or two. It’s too bad they’re so pricey though. I see those prices and I instantly think ... parts.
Hi, on a different bike of mine I had this issue and the quick shifter was faulty. I was very surprised. To me it felt like I was suffering a fuel cut out, like an extreme version of needing to switch on to reserve on a bike with a carb. At 60mph it scared me witless. The dealer took 3 rides to repeat the fault but was in no doubt as to the cause when he experienced it.
Latest in my seriea of DIY farkles.
I find there is nowhere to grab to steady and lift the bike onto the ceterstand when the panniers are installed, so I made a lift handle. First version was simple and fixed. Two things I didn't like about it; it was too low for a natural grip and It kinda made me nervous having it ridgidly sticking out like that. I know Wunderlich makes the folding handles, I had one on my F800GS, but the one they make for the 850 mounts even lower than my first version, and it would run me nearly $300 Cdn to get. So, when you have a bunch of 7075 and 6061 aluminum pieces and a mill and a lathe, you just make your own design. It fold away out of harms way with a detent to keep it in the in or out position. No need to drill any holes for mounting. It uses one existing hole in the subframe brace and a clamp bracket that secures it to the frame tube. Much happier with this piece.
My first less than ideal version
The new folding lever.
There is no need to "Lift" if you are doing it properly... I hold the left grip and the luggage rack bar... Push the stand down with your foot and use you leg to extend the stand. Your arms should only be used t steady the bike. All of the force comes from your leg.
It took me a while to figure that out. This was my first bike with a center stand and I was always trying to muscle it up and it sucked. Watched a tech at the dealership do it and suddenly everything made sense and it was painlessly easy from that point on.
Maybe I need to see that in person... I've used center stands before, and I can use this one on my 850 but I have to push down with my foot really hard while lifting on the rear rack to get the bike to pop up. I only weigh 150...
Don't know about the 850, but on the 800 with the panniers on(especiallyloaded), it is difficult to grab the rack. Something like this would be very helpful.
I find it very difficult to put my 850 onto the center stand with side cases installed, especially with loaded side cases. Sometimes it goes beyond technique, especially if you are shorter, lighter and/or older than the average (me). It seems like the center stand is too tall on my 850. Two things that help is to either run the back tire onto a piece of wood or to set the ESA to the luggage setting for more preload. I've had R1200GS's that were easy to put on the center stand and I currently have a R1200RT that is half the effort of the 850. I think that it comes down to a lousy center stand design on the 850. And the side stand isn't the best either.
Cool design! With a different clamp it Makes me wonder if they could double as highway pegs.
Yep I was going to say put the suspension in either rider/luggage or Rider/Passenger to raise the suspension.
One thing that can also be done is measure the height that you rear tire is off the ground when on the center stand and cut about half of that off.