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Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by alongat, Feb 9, 2019.
Great, I was under the impression that the filter should be pointing upward.
I've tried a dozen or more ideas with the ITG. I'm done. Time to switch to a better designed product.
Mane, as you have it is the best spot for the crank shaft breather filter. You want it to be high and out of the way. The stock "J" piece after the inline check-valve makes it easy to just zip tie it up high like you did. I put facing the other way though. It comes up from the left side and the J hose brings it to the right side, the filter is facing down. Also it's good to keep that check valve vertical as oppose to horizontal.
Thank you very much keener!
I finally had the opportunity to try the kit this past weekend and found the bike running at somewhat higher rpms at idle (1800~2100 range), and between 3000~3100rpms in stop/go traffic. It is somewhat annoying.
After the installation and I did set the TPS and reseted the adaption (via TuneECU). Next morning, with a cold engine I did the 15 minute idle thing.
Any idea on what I might have got wrong?
I notice the base plate to fit a little loose to the intake ports and it rattles a bit when the engine is running.
I'm using the gray foam rings and the white rings (on top on the gray ones) , that came in the mail with the updated parts, all sandwiched between the intake ports and the base plate. All is secure in place with intake trumpets (velocity stacks).
Alon is sleep so I respond to you Mane,
Idle hanging up, or dropping bellow 1500 at stops is a sign of a rich/lean mixture at idle. If it was a carb bike the would be the classic sign incorrectly set idle mixture screw. On a FI bike, you can do so by editing the map. But before you go there, and I don't know how comfortable you are with editing the map in TuneECU, I suggest you load a map that's proven for your setup. This is not the thread for it. We don't provide a map with our filter kit and don't give advise on that department because there are so many different variables at play. But I can say, what you are describing is a map issue, OR you have an intake leak somewhere. Look up on youtube for tricks to check for intake leak on a bike.
The new updated seals you got in the complimentary upgrade kit, are to REPLACE the grey seals. Toss the grey seals. Your base plate should be tight enough with the white seals and the trumpets installed correctly but you can still move it slightly. That's normal. The seals should prevent the base plate from rattling. They are made of high quality silicon spurge.
If the baseplate still rattles, the trumpets must be computerized. Specially because they must seen a lot of stress on their tabs with double seals under the plate. Luckily they are very cheap and readily available form KTM.
Thank you for the advice Keener.
The fuel map is the same I had before the Airfilter kit install, which is a KTM Akrapovich map slightly modified, that I got here in AdvRider. It was doing just fine before the install. I did reset the adaptation as mentioned above. I will check for intake leaks this weekend. Thanks for the tip
I didn't get you on computerized... However, I choose to install both seals (gray and white) to avoid the rattling (initially I was using only the white ones) and now it seems to be better...
I hopefully will have sometime this weekend to go around double checking the installation and posting some pictures is questions arise. Thanks for your support.
The Akra map wont give enough enrichment for this intake. I suggest to use the seals as intended, i think you did something wrong because, as keeners said, it should be tight with only one seal (gray or white)
Here is the picture i took after install with the seal below the plate.
Forgive his typing, I think Keener meant that the plastic tabs on the intake velocity stacks can soften over time and cause an incorrect seal especially if they’ve been stressed and loosened with the stacked sealing rings like that. We’ve not had any loose base plate issues. Please share photos of the setup when possible.
Are you going to be making more of the 950/990 air filters units? I notice that they are sold out.
The air filter kit is back in stock.
Use promo code "boxing2019" for additional discount at checkout from now until December 31th.
BTW, we are now accepting orders in Canadian dollar and Euro in addition to AUD, USD and GBP.
@keener @alongat A belated Merry Xmas and hope that 2020 is a great year for the TCM Team!
Am just installing the new filter kit... Are we still greasing the foam filter rim? TIA.
Greetings and happy holidays!!! No need to use rim grease at all, just oil it as you would the rest of the filter (pre oiled filters need nothing added) and it gets sandwiched between the base plate and the filter cage plate.
Cheers Alon! One less, messy chore.
Nice heat shield!
I stole the idea off someone here years ago :) 50mm thick acoustic foam.
Heat, dust, water shield and ‘honk’ enhancer!
Road test completed, can report that my 950Adv runs very very nicely following the intake changeover!
No change to (rottweiller intake) jetting at all :)
Installed this beautiful kit on my SE for about a week ago. Went out for a test ride and the fuel pump gave up Got it going again with help of Dr_bean and now it's all good.
Rejetted according to opanos suggestions and the bike pulls really well with a nice growl under the seat. Also to be able working with the carbs without lifting the tank is just so nice. I was able to sync them easily, would be quite a hazzle with the stock airbox I can imagine.
Thank you Trippleclamp!
Just a reminder to those new to oiled foam filters who are using our filter system. You need to make sure the filter is always oiled and feels tacky at touch so it can do its job. Don't wait for it to dry-out or look dirty before changing it. With the spare filter we send with every kit, it takes 2minutes to change it.