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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by guywithchickens, Oct 10, 2017.
Built a quick & dirty work table. Patient positioned for surgery. Now I'm working the to-do list.
The list in approximate priority order (comments/tips welcome):
Inspect cylinders (no FOD)
Torque cylinder heads
Rocker arm end play
Check rubber valve pushrod seals
Check oil pickup in pan
Set points gap
Grease point cam felt
Auto advance unit
New plugs (silver lube 1600F)
Inspect all seals
Inspect/replace carb air hoses
New oil filter
New air filter
Change all fluids
Set ignition timing
Check full advance timing
Adjust & synch carbs
Check drive shaft (splines?)
Check drive shaft boots
Inspect/rebuild rear shocks
Redo or replace clutch cable
Redo or replace throttle cable
Set throttle free play
Redo or replace choke cable
Adjust choke cable
Fix side panel attachments
Rebuild front brake & lines
Rebuild rear brake & lines
Check rear wheel spacer (larger tire)
What do you mean redo tank?
Tank is very rusty. Needs major cleanout (electrolysis maybe?) and re-lining. Hope it's salvageable.
Are you sure that's rust you are seeing in the tank? BMW used a factory red liner that is often mistaken for rust
Looks pretty nice from the photos
Definitely. I've closely inspected with a flashlight. Even shook out some rust flakes onto the workbench.
On the outside, yes. Fingers crossed it cleans out well!
I will try the Vinegar first, cheap, safe and environmental friendly.
Picked up the exact same bike for my wife last year and it had been sitting for 20 years. The tank looked pretty similar your lucky the gas cap came off mine was rusted in.
Apple Cider Vinegar did do the trick! Took about a week or two and I did drain and strain out the crud a couple times. At the end of all this I had to put in some small nuts and bolts and gave it a good shake to remove the last bits of rust and old tank liner that was still in there but kinda loose.
Finished off with a mixture of distilled water and baking soda to neutralize the vinegar. Use any leftover distilled water to rinse out the tank. After the distilled water rinse with a bit of gasoline and coat the tank to stop it from flash surface rust.
At this point you should probably reseal your tank. I did not, just filled the tank to the brim with gas so there was no chance of the bare metal rusting and away I went. Worked great for the season and still rust free till now but I think I will seal it over the winter. I did install a inline fuel filter and it picked up a lot of crud over the season.
Let me know if you have any questions. I might have some pics to put up of the process. Good luck!
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guywithchickens, It looks like you're off to a great start with your Dad's bike. Once you finish that checklist, there won't be much of anything that could go wrong. I ageee with the vinegar recommendations, and I have had excellent results by following that with the POR-15 Process. Good luck. I'll follow your thread with interest.
Good tips, thanks.
Luckily, I have another bike for regular riding (V-Strom), so I'm in no rush here. It's fun to have a good project over the winter. I'm really liking having the bike on a work table. Not as young as I used to be...
I was given a CT-90 that the gas tank looked about the same, a couple of gallons of Metal Rescue later, looks almost new!
Gas tank after shaking around 20 3/8" nuts and multiple rinses. Looking much less "chunky". Tank now has 4 gallons of vinegar in it. Bike continues disassembly phase. Got exhaust nuts off last night (by cutting). Working to free headers now.
Bad news: Drained all the fluids (oil, transmission, final drive). Went to drain drive shaft and the plug just spins and doesn't come out. I'll try to get it off with vice grips, but this likely means a full disassembly of the drive line and tapping and/or helicoil.
(Green pool noodles because I kept hitting my head on the bars and levers!)
The rear end is easy enough to remove and it is not uncommon to find any of the bolts on the rear drive to be stripped. Not sure if tires where on your list, but they need to be replaced. I would line the tank once you get it clean and it would be worth checking to see if you have any pinholes. I've had rad shops clean old bike tanks for me and some of them that do bed liner type stuff can line the tank. I did this on one of my gas tanks many years ago. Impervious to gas. POR or one of those types of treatments work OK for the tank and you can always look for another gas tank. Best investment you will ever make when working on motorcycles and cast aluminium, a torque wrench or two.
The bike overall looks pretty good and is certainly worth putting back on the road. Good luck on your restore.
Got the final drive removed. Drive shaft drain plug was a PITA to remove. Totally stripped, essentially had to muscle it out. I'll do a thorough cleanout to make sure no shavings left.
I'm thinking of just permanently installing the drain plug with JB Weld. If/when I need to drain the drive shaft I can either suck it out from the top or remove the final drive. Any ideas?
With the rear drive off, now is the time to do a proper repair. I would suggest a TimeSert but a heli coil would do as well.
I would not even consider sealing that up permanently with JB Weld. I don't believe it is physically possible to drain the drive shaft with a suction gun. As Pokie said, now is the time for a proper repair. You need to remove everything down to, and including, the threaded ring in order to do the job right. That will require some special tools and a hefty torque wrench. Others may weigh in with shortcuts, so you will need to decide what you want to do.
All right...I guess I'll do it properly.
I suppose this is part of my journey of working on cheaper Japanese bikes to nicer German bikes. Need to re-align my philosophy.
Thanks for the coaching!