New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

So it turns out that even though my bike didn't come with an oil pressure switch (it's a 2008 model), the speedo does have one built in ready to use.

After comparing the electrical schematic for the later bikes with those for my machine, I found that every connection to the speedometer is the same, except the later bikes have pin 14 connected to a normally closed oil pressure switch which then grounds through the engine.
NB: the drawings actually show a normally open switch, but they are wrong

Of course now I had to install a pressure switch. I got lucky and found a used one, including the hose and oil filter cover on ebay for $7.

The hardest part was finding out who was the OEM for the oil pressure switch electrical connector. After a mere 4 hours of googling I found that it's made by Yazaki.


If anyone want's to copy me the part numbers for the speedo pins / oil pressure switch connector are:
Speedo: JST SXA-01T-P0.6 pin for the speedo plug (https://uk.farnell.com/jst-japan-so...-p0-6/crimp-socket-xa-24-20awg-tin/dp/1830863)
Oil Switch: Yazaki RH 7283-8851-30 connector set (https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/2-way-yazaki-rh-connector-female.html)

For completeness here's my pinout for the speedometer.


Pins 19-21 aren't listed in the KTM drawings, but function as remote buttons for the trip meter when grounded, allowing you to cycle through the different trip meters and adjust trip 2 up or down.

That's good info Daryl. I can't say that I've had the desire to add the idiot light, but you made it so easy for me to do so, so I might do it anyway! I do have a KTM tripmaster switch hooked up though, makes following roll charts easier on organised dual sport rides.

What exactly does the tripmaster switch feature provide? I have never heard more than that name bandied about.

I'm sure the tripmaster switch could be more useful than what I've used it for, but it lets you flip through trip 1, trip 2, and a lap timer (I think it will store 10 laps.) It also allows you to reset your trip 1 or trip 2 odometer reading up or down in 1/10 mile increments without taking your hands off the bars, which is useful for matching your odometer to a known waypoint on a rollchart (I used to ride sweep for a few events, so I'd always end up doubling back on course, or taking detours to help other riders, so my trip always showed higher than the roll charts. This feature was the sole reason I bought the switch.)

I do have the small "R" dash without the tachometer that was used on just the 09-11 R bikes (at least I think those were the only ones?) So KTM 54814073000 was plug and play, but I'm assuming it can be spliced into the bigger dash's using daryl's pinout (red=mode, yellow=up, blue=down.)

What it won't do is turn your 690 into an ultra cool rally race bike, but with enough buttons and switches, one can pretend.

On the big clocks you can change display: ODO - Trip 1 - Trip 2 - Trip F (if fuel low)
Up and Down let you adjust Trip 2 for the reasons The Letter J mentioned.
If you can reset the big clocks with the 3 remote buttons then I haven't figured out how.

I bought this switch mount from banggood for about $4 delivered, but had to change one of the buttons from latched to momentary.


In all likelyhood I'll never need the adjustable trip meter, but it's there so I though't I'd connect it up just in case.

I need some help finding a Db killer/spark arrestor for a 2013 690 Enduro R with titanium slip on Akrapovic. I've talked to just about everyone I can think of (KTM Twins, KTM North America, Local KTM dealership, Revzilla, Rottweiler Performance, CJ Designs) and am coming up short. CJ Designs 48mm Akrapovic insert will probably work but it's just a spark arrestor and the exhaust already has one. I really need a compatible Db killer.

Any ideas on if another manufacturers Db killer might work? If another year/model of exhaust is still compatible? I love this exhaust, the bike is just loud as hell though and obnoxious above 4k RPM. Attached is a picture of the exhaust and the current spark arrestor, it is a 48mm part.

Check this out, I had them for one of my street bikes and they were effective. http://www.holeshot.com/accessories/muffler-db-killer

See you've posted only 4 times total. The place to sell is not here. Please post in the Flea Market forum. Good luck.

Issue solved, exhaust is actually an old Wings design but with a Akra sticker. Going to get a Db killer/Spark arrester from Wings and put a Wings sticker back on it .

Thanks, I moved it. I haven't been on here in a while. I'm more of a rider/post lurker than poster. Obviously. Lol. Thanks again.

Any good postings or "real world data" on 2018 KTM 690 Enduro R valve check results? I am trying to get a sense of real world vs. published maintenance schedule. Thanks.

This will start the discussion of the roller rocker disintegration again. All the checks I've done show that the valves slightly loosen up from the rocker/cam wear and no wear on the valve seats (that would make it tighter). That is if you've replaced the stock air filter immediately with something better. If you get a sudden change to a much looser valve clearance, then you should replace the rocker. May be a good idea to replace them if you make 20k miles. This is a very easy job to check valves.
On a 2015-on, the rocker has been improved. I still added more 'staking/peining' to my 2015 and it hasn't had a problem in 10k miles. I'm going to run the original rockers until either they fail or show wear. (I've got new ones on the shelf though)

2019-on should be a non-issue. The finger followers have now been proven. (if you run good oil)

Yikes! Way beyond my pay grade. You think if I keep to the every year / 10K miles ( max ) on valve check, I should be safe? Assuming my riding is way more conservative the " sporting use ." I have no idea what KTM means by sporting use. Since I ma at the flat line of the learning curve on valve check and bike, I guess it goes into shop.

Thanks Zuber.

10k is kilometers not miles, so it's about 6k miles.

And yes, you should be fine with those intervals.

But check them a few times early on and to make sure things are staying in spec. Also check them if they get loud or if the bike gets hard to start (that can indicate tight clearance).

Here's my data from my 2008 bike:

1 = original rockers died after 18,000 miles, after about 1000 miles the pin started backing out on the new inlet rocker and the dealer sent me another one.
2 = original engine died after 24,500 miles (still haven't taken it apart to see why, but the oil was milky and the cam destoyed the bearings and head).
3 = new (2016) rockers in replacement engine at 27,820 miles

The clearances appear to have settled in after about 5,000 miles but i've made no adjustments since their installation 3.5 years / 22,500 miles ago (point 3 on the graph)

Just because I was curious I graphed it out for my bike - 2013 with 16k miles.


1 - my original rockers were replaced at 4331 miles due to galling on one of the rollers.

2 - the second set was replaced (proactively) at 14,338miles once the 2015 rockers became available with claims of improvements.

3 - both times the new rockers were replaced I checked the clearance a few weeks after installation and one or both required an adjustment to clearance. After that they remained stable.

I need some help from you gents. I im in the process of replacing my swing arm bearings 2015 690 enduro. The numbers superseed to the picture below.



Here is the new vs old bearing. The new bearing is wider and has retainers for the needles. Great right...



Here is the problem. Only on the left side of the swing arm the parts diagram shows 2 washers goes into each outter side of the opposing bearing on the left side of the swing arm only.



After I press the new bearings in there is not enough space to press the washer and seal to sit flush to the swingarm.



The bucket seal for the bearing sleeve is also thicker. The new bearing sleeve with the new bucket caps on both sides measure 45.5mm wide. The old sleeve and bucket measure 41mm. The swingarm measures 40mm on each arm.

I am not sure how this will work anyone ran into this issue? Do i use the old caps and not use the washers on the left side?

Well... take a look at the parts break down for a 2018 or 19? That should show the new configuration.

https://www.ktmpartspro.com/oemparts/a/ktm/5ad17c7beb0bed9250b44aae/swing-arm

the 2018 superseeds to the bearing kit I ordered.

I did my 2015 a few weeks ago and used repair kit 76504230010 - that's still a current part number.

78904230010 is for the competition enduro bikes, not the 690