New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by crankshaft, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. Uller

    Uller Done with this BS

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,595
    Location:
    In a town, FU
    Little history lesson (as I recall it :D)

    I believe that I had the second recorded R/R failure on a 690. The spiking voltage fried my brand new lithium battery leaving me stranded in the middle of a closed 4x4 trail in the middle of a rainstorm on Mothers Day Weekend. Guess who had to leave her kids and give me a ride home....She wasn't happy. (Edit: I was less than 300 mi from home however, had to push the bike out 4 miles to the road and my GF had to take a ferry boat and drive 2+ hours to come and get me. Not something I want to deal with again. Plus, the spiking voltage can cause damage to other components which cost much more than an Shindengen FH020AA and are a lot harder to get. These units are being speced on yamahas and hondas now and will be much more widely available in the future)

    It took forever to diagnose as the culprit. LukasM informed me of Fishfund's issues and that led me to the R/R and eventually solved my issues. (I was having other running problems, also due to the R/R, after I got a new battery which made the issue all the more confusing) ***If you didn't catch it on Noah's or my other post, the way to determine if you have R/R issues it to take a look at your charging voltage. If it is off, or spiking, you should probably get a new R/R.

    It is believed that the running issues caused by the R/R failing are intermittent and varied because the R/R will only fail/spike intermittently. On the 690, for some, it throws one code, for someone else, it throws a different one, and for others it doesn't even throw codes. It is basically causing different than normal readings in the sensors of the Fuel Injection System throwing it out of wack. In my case it fried another electrical component, the battery. I would guess it could also fry the cpu but, I am not sure on that.

    The first recorded failure followed Luke (Fishfund) throughout Africa and into England before it was fixed, causing problems all along the way. That "fix" was installing the OEM unit which has now affected Noah.

    I was able to discuss the R/R issues with Noah when he came through the Pacific NW and he had installed the Shindengen FH020AA on his 2010 when he got back home, prior to his departure to Ireland. That bike was stolen and he is now on Fishfund's old bike with an OEM unit and is now dealing with the complications of bad components in a less than appropriate location.

    Having delt with this myself and installing the Shindengen FH020AA on both my 690 and 950 I would say the fix is relatively cheap, considering everything else that goes on the bike, and an easy installation should you be able to crimp and solder. Even if you don't/can't there are solutions to resolve this by purchasing a pre-made wire harness from EasternBeaver or Roadstercycle (or others).

    I purchased my Shindengen FH020AA from http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm, however don't like their circuit breaker or the new fuse holder they include. So, I purchased the components from, http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html, to wire up the system myself as I needed to. IMO, the install is neater, cleaner with less extra wire hanging around to get damaged.

    The complications associated with the change from the OEM to the Shindengen FH020AA are simple to fix. The only problem that I found was related to the size of the electrical connectors. The unit is the same size and bolt pattern to the OEM unit however, the OEM has the wires coming directly out of the bottom where the Shindengen FH020AAhas two sealed connectors. Those connectors will hit the stock coil location. If you have Rally Raid tanks I believe that the coil is relocated anyway so, no issue. For the Safari Tank that i have, I installed the R/R to insulated tube clamps directly above the stator on the L side of the bike in an area of very good airflow.

    Hope this helps. I'll see if I have any pictures of my install for the wiki. There are a few threads discussing the benefit/differences of the MOSFET style R/R vs. the OEM unit if you look enough. Most are in the Orange Crush section from what I have seen.

    Edit:


    [​IMG]

    Some Threads about the upgrade:


    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802680

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=835503 (my "how to" on the 950 install, it is different however, somewhat similar)

    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719093

    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=888017

    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=865914

    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=668132

    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=804883

    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=794890

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=820432

    Pics of 690 Install/Location

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Another Edit:

    Just some afterthoughts about the benefits of this change to a Shindengen FH020AA. The main advantages of the swap go beyond the reliability of the OEM unit vs. the Shindengen. Via the installation of the new R/R you will end up bypassing the Starter Relay, which is how the charge current ends up reaching the battery in the stock configuration, and connecting directly to the battery. You will also install a dedicated ground which the 690 can use. You will get rid of the brown open connectors that are prone to corroding and ultimately failure. You will increase the wire size for the charging system. Finally, the Shindengen FH020AA just works better at charging. A steady 14.4 volts based on what i have seen. (The OEM unit will acutally provide less charging volts the higher the RPM of the motor, this causes extra heat and premature failure of the device)
    c_b1 likes this.
  2. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

    Joined:
    May 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,732
    Location:
    In the mountains?
    That depends on where it will fail and where you will be. If you are riding 3oo miles from home... I'd say no. If you are going RTW I'd say yes. I wish I would have in the UK while I was prepping my 2nd 690.
  3. cyborg

    cyborg Potius Sero Quam Numquam

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2004
    Oddometer:
    5,431
    Location:
    Pacific NorthWet
  4. BygDaddee

    BygDaddee Where do I get a pie

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2012
    Oddometer:
    7,119
    Location:
    Brisbane Northside, OZ
  5. Hoots

    Hoots Long timer

    Joined:
    May 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    4,374
  6. Sutherngintelmen

    Sutherngintelmen around the bend

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,244
    Location:
    ATL or AVL
    Thank you for taking the time to write that up - well done. :clap

    When I was chasing my intermittent probs R/R was a prime candidate but not the culprit. I'm still running oem with mosfet on 'to do' list - I appreciate the motivation of your learnings. :freaky
    c_b1 likes this.
  7. Bill the Bong

    Bill the Bong Supern00ba

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,405
    Location:
    Kalahari South Africa
    KTM Cape Town in South Africa also builds a version like Basel's using the same 450RR bits.

    I actually thought about buying 1, but went with building my own Rally Raid version.

    1 huge disadvantage of these versions is that 1.5 liters of fuel on both front tanks will not drain into the rear tank and therefor not be usable. Carrying a superfluous 3l does not make sense.
    c_b1 likes this.
  8. Velociraptor

    Velociraptor TrackBum

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,801
    Location:
    Seattle
    At the bottom of this page are some photos of the mosfet RR with the Rally Raid EVO2 tanks.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=832366&page=19

    The RR gets moved to the right side of the bike and has an adapter plate. The mosfet RR will not fit with the supplied holes on the adapter plate. Another hole needs to be drilled in the plate and the RR needs to be rotated and some of the fins ground off to clear the radiator. The EVO2 tanks are a very tight fit to the frame which is nice, but it complicates fitting some stuff.
  9. Uller

    Uller Done with this BS

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,595
    Location:
    In a town, FU
    No problem and Thank You! I added some final thoughts about the benefits at the bottom of my post.


    I stand corrected. Thanks for adding that. (The pics Velociraptor mentions are in post #278 if you have changed your post per page in the options)

    "some of the fins ground off to clear the radiator" :eek1
    That doesn't sound too good though. Those help with cooling. :D The install looks good though. Nice work making all that fit in there. The R/R should get some decent cooling from the airflow through the radiator in that location.
  10. Velociraptor

    Velociraptor TrackBum

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,801
    Location:
    Seattle
    Yeah, I was a little worried about that but it is not very much so fingers crossed!
  11. TheMuffinMan

    TheMuffinMan Forest Ranger Magnet

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    8,858
    Location:
    Grand Junction, CO
    So I got back on Monday from a weekend that involved about 600 miles of rough dirt roads, trails and such with 54 lbs (yes I weighed it) of camping/rain/thermal gear and extra gas on the rear of the bike. My rally-raid tank bolts held up without issues. I do have the Wolfman side and rear racks.

    I'm not worried about putting weight on the rear now :ricky

    I uploaded the Evo-1 map and have a FMF Q4 and evo-1 lid. My mileage was 45mpg at the lowest in the sandy trails section and as high as 59.
  12. SportsGuy

    SportsGuy icanhazdirt?

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    545
    Location:
    Camarillo CA
    You have JUST inspired me to install my RR tank bolts! They've been sitting for a few months now, minding their own business, so now seems like a good time to install them. :) Gotta run the fuel level nice and low this weekend. :)

    Thanks for the feedback on how they held up!
  13. Biped

    Biped NooB Again

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    438
    Location:
    Oregon, Wet Side
    It's amazing how many of you buy upgrade parts but don't install them. It's like buying a parachute and not wearing it until after your first plane crash. :rofl
  14. Velociraptor

    Velociraptor TrackBum

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,801
    Location:
    Seattle
    That reminds me of the time I lowsided a KLR and had crash bars waiting to be installed at home:huh At least it was a KLR, so repairs were minimal and cheap!
  15. SportsGuy

    SportsGuy icanhazdirt?

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    545
    Location:
    Camarillo CA
    Laugh all you want - given the choice between tearing the bike apart, or commuting to work, I choose to commute and invest my time elsewhere.

    NOW, however, after having taken some offroad rider training, and wanting to go exploring with gear on the bike, it's time to actually do the work.

    But, in deference to your point, yeah... 'tis true...

    ...and center stand is still in the box...
    ...and kickstand switch bypass remains in cardboard...

    Just a time thing - I'd rather ride within the limits than wrench. But there is a time to wrench, which is now, and a time to ride harder, which is later. :)
  16. palmstatecrawler

    palmstatecrawler Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2013
    Oddometer:
    519
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    Time to place an order at ktmtwins.com What do I want? Gonna pick up the touratech seat and crashbars. Might as well spend another $200 so I can get my $100 off. :clap
  17. bergspyder

    bergspyder n00b

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2012
    Oddometer:
    8
    Location:
    Bitterroot Valley Montana
    Got to test the crashbars on my 690 today....watched an owl carring a mink fly over the road ....eyes right and promptly dove off the paved road and onto the deep gravel shoulder at about 50. Avoided the wall of willows and after 20 feet slid out the rear coming to a soft stop. Not a scratch! did not even wash it off when I got home. All this on the east side of the Skalkalo Pass. I love having a relatively damage proof bike and good boots!I also got lucky as most of the pass features, shall I say, more dramatic dropoffs! Don
  18. v8toilet

    v8toilet Nothing to see here.

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,743
    Location:
    Northwest U.S.
    Yep they're tough, I figured there could only be one Skalkalo pass so I checked your profile sure enough Montana.
  19. abhibeckert

    abhibeckert Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,960
    Location:
    Cairns, Australia
    I just installed a new bearing/spacer kit in the front wheel, and now my speedo is fucked.

    It seems it might be accurate at low speeds (10/20kmh) but much above that and it definitely stops working.

    I watched it closely for a 5 minute stretch maintaining 75-or-so kmh as steadily as I could manage (with my smartphone GPS app announcing my speed every minute) bike speedo was constantly fluctuating around 40, sometimes as low as 30 or as high as 50.

    Does anyone know what could cause this? I had the front wheel off, so I must've done something, but there is no visible issue that I can see with the sensor.
  20. mtntrails

    mtntrails Life is Short...

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    803
    Location:
    Mount Airy, MD
    Uller and others who have had an R/R failure...

    My 2010 690R is currently stored off-site in Las Vegas. I have very limited wrenching ability there and I don't think the local dealer would be willing to install and rewire for the better R/R.

    Given this scenario, it sounds like it would it be a good idea to keep a spare OEM R/R on the bike for long trips. What are your thoughts on this? Overkill?