New BMW G650X (merged) threadfest...

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by mr moto, Oct 9, 2006.

  1. matloik

    matloik kludge Supporter

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    My stalling started to get progressively worse -- it got to a point that it would stall once or twice on each start up. Yesterday I took the throttle body off, removed the idle actuator, and cleaned them both up. They needed a scrubbing. A post-cleaning test was good, didn't stall. And it fired up and idled strong without stalling this morning for my commute to work. I hate to say for sure it's been solved ... I'll report back if the stalling returns.
  2. Geoffster

    Geoffster Fool - Born This Way

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2008
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    Montecillo de Nieto, SMA, Guanajuato, MX
    My 2009 XCountry never suffered from this in 10k miles, but my 2007 XCountry began to do this @ ~4.5k miles. Mine never screeches but simply stops running. My "solution" has been to stop letting the bike warm up while I do my final gear-up, and start it when I'm actually ready to ride. Then I ride off after the bike has been running about 30 seconds.

    It'll go in for its 6k service in a couple of weeks and I'll ask lots of questions.
  3. Viv

    Viv Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2010
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    London
    I took the shock off. I didn't need to remove the wheel so it was a 10 minute job. As per Snooker's picture the end of the shock does appear to be a Rose joint. In my case it has some wear and so needs replacing as suspected.

    When I tried to removed the joint it moves a few rotations and then becomes very tight. Since the where the joint threads into is alloy I didn't want to cause any damage in attempting to remove it at this stage.

    I'll make a more positive effort later in the year when it is too cold to ride (for me) and so can take more time with it.

    Viv
  4. matloik

    matloik kludge Supporter

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    Well, unfortunately I'm reporting back on this sooner than I'd hoped. My thorough cleaning of the t-body and idle actuator did not help, and my symptoms have worsened -- I experienced a stall after starting off, upon clutching in to the first stop. Could my idle actuator have finally given out? Time to do some more reading up on this issue that I've ignored as my bike was fine until about 14K miles.
  5. The Jester

    The Jester Long timer

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    If I remember right, a less than perfect battery causes the lambda sensor to give a false reading so that the bike leans out the mixture too much which can cause stalling.
    Stick it on charge overnight and see if that helps. It might be worth checking to ensure your battery terminals are clean and firmly connected.
  6. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2005
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    I have a problem that neither I nor the Atlanta dealer can figure out. My 09 XCo runs like a champ. It always starts-up briskly and never skips a beat.

    The problem is that, intermittently, when I first turn-on the key, the display will go blank momentarily and a code will pop-up on the speedo readout that says A65. A split second later, the 888 comes up and it cycles-through normally and I hit the starter button and it starts just fine. All of the displays work fine except now everything stored in memory is set to zero, the clock, the odometeres, everything except the main odometer.
    A couple of days ago, the entire instrument pod stayed blank while I started and rode the bike 5 or 6 miles. Once I turned the switch off and on again, everything worked fine.

    I've checked the battery connections and they are tight. The dealer mechanic read the fault codes and says nothing shows up.

    Anybody know anything ? What does "A65" mean ??? HELP
  7. The Jester

    The Jester Long timer

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    Are you running an HID headlamp?

    When I had an HID on mine it did this the 1st time I switched on after installing the system and also if the bike had been switched to high beam when the bike was turned off. I assumed it was down to the current draw required to charge the ballast. It didn't discharge when left on low beam due to a diode in the wiring which allowed the bulb to operate on hi and low beam.

    When I removed the HID bulb the problem stopped and has not recurred. Don't know what the code means though.
  8. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    Ahhhh YES I did install HID. Hmmmm. Damn. You think the ballast is requiring too much drain to fire-off ?? I wonder if an Odyssey battery would help ?

    This does not occur every time but only sporatically.

    I wired-up a Centech board directly off the battery and triggered by a switched-power relay. The HID ballast is powered off the Centech. The old high beam bulb wire is used as the trigger to power the HID high beam solenoid. (H4 HID has one bulb that is shuttled in and out by a solenoid to effect high and low beam)

    I like the HID - lots.

    I am thinking now about either a stronger battery or and time-delay circuit to allow starting of the engine before the Centech relay is tripped. With the motor running, maybe this initial power drain can be handled.
  9. MTBiker78

    MTBiker78 ENDURO Wanabee

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2008
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    Poland
    Anyone knows that swedish rider? Im looking for a contact :wink:
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  10. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    Oct 1, 2007
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    Chambers Bay, WA
    Leafman--I switched out my HID's for VisionX LED's, but when I had my HID's I had no problems like you describe. I had a pair of 50-watters and an Odyssey battery with a relay and a fused panel similar to your Centech setup. One big difference? My HID's had a dedicated on/off switch. In other words, no power to the lights until I manually switched them on. Can't you just make sure your headlight switch is on "low beam" before you hit the starter?
  11. Alcanara

    Alcanara 's not me occifer

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2007
    Oddometer:
    122
    Location:
    Harrogate (UK) and Murcia (Spain) Trail Heaven
    I had the starting problems.... just would not hold a tick over.... this was Spain so not connected with the cold. I also had the A65 code (I asked the same question on here some time ago and got no replies). Then finally my battery would not turn the engine over and then would not hold a charge.

    Replaced the battery and no problems since .... My wife's F650CS is showing the same symptoms and just suddenly stops.... the battery is also failing so a pattern is beginning to form here... especially as quite a few on here have said all was fine after fitting a new battery.

    There is clearly something on the FI electronics that needs a healthy signal/feed from the battery.... Electrickery is very much my weak point.. so can someone please solve this... it is driving people nuts.

    Hope this helps

    stuart:clap :clap
  12. The Jester

    The Jester Long timer

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    Purely speculative as I could do with raising some cash.

    I have a set of X-co wheels I bought for my X-ch so I could run 1 set with road tyres and another set with dirt. As most of my dirt riding is on a trials bike at the moment I am wondering about selling on the X-co wheels. I shipped a set of wheels across the atlantic about 4 years ago and it worked out about £30; with inflation allow £50 to Oz, US or Canada, £20 within Europe, but it may be less. Not much point in shipping worn tyres but I can include discs and a cush hub.

    Haven't though about a price yet, just testing the water. Any interest?
  13. Johnnyboxer

    Johnnyboxer Long timer

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    Yorkshire, UK

    PM sent about the wheels:D
  14. matloik

    matloik kludge Supporter

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    I'll post a cross-thread link regarding this, over to where I think these "issues" discussions should probably take place. It's good news in my case.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=14312831#post14312831
  15. snooker

    snooker AttitudeIsEverything

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    That stalling is a serious problem and should not happen and is much worse than my slight one! Does it only happen when engine is cold? Does it happen if you keep the motor revved as you pull in the clutch? I mean pull it in while the rpm's are high and then keep it revved? ... OR is it when you slow down so the rpm's are low and it depends on the idle circuit to be working (which is not)?

    Now if it is NOT a low rpm problem, but it just dies at higher rpm's, read this post about an ignition switch assembly / bad solder joint issue...

    If you have a good Yuasa battery (free warranty fix as OEM ones were crap) that is charged well... this may rule out electrical...
    So then just clean the idle actuator and throttle body like matloik and muckpee are saying and report back. Don't give up, the EFI is awesome!

    Now the god awful screech - does it sound like it is coming from the clutch area? Or could it somehow be the idle actuator mechanism (plate?) binding?
  16. Lankbrown

    Lankbrown No Pain No Gain

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2008
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    Location:
    Melbourne,OZ
    Located the rub point. The wiring rubs agains the rear mount in the air box area(previous thread). Works fine now.
  17. olyflyer

    olyflyer Long timer

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    Jun 26, 2006
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    Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia
    hey is anybody chasing pillion foot pegs as I took mine off as I don't need them pm me if ya interested, they are in Texas but I'll be in Mexico in a day or so see if we can work out a price
  18. satur9

    satur9 angry black guy

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    Mar 7, 2009
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    hfil
    i got oddessy battery had hid on a swtich with relay straight to battery still did the going blank thing. im running vision x leds now as well
  19. Ogre_fl

    Ogre_fl Long timer

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    Cook Bayou, FL
    PM sent
  20. Johnnyboxer

    Johnnyboxer Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2003
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    1,283
    Location:
    Yorkshire, UK
    In case anyone missed it:D

    Last time I removed the wheels, to clean everything properly............I noticed that the BMW OEM Alloy front and rear wheel spacers were becoming worn and deep grooves had started to form, in only 4300 miles

    So in order to prevent a spacer collapse and thus bearing failure or wheel failure :eek1 , I researched the issue and found out that it was not uncommon and our friend Stephan in Germany had made some from stainless steel, I ordered some:thumb

    http://www.scheffelmeier-metall.de/

    He makes them in non ABS or ABS versions and cost was Euro44 shipped to my door in England

    Fitting took all of 10 mins this morning and we're good to go:thumb

    Old ones:eek1 :eek1 (see the deep grooving)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Shiny new hard stainless ones.............:thumb

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