New Owners - Stupid Questions Thread

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by HighFive, Nov 22, 2010.

  1. shuswap1

    shuswap1 Long timer

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    Need a different dealer, that's ridiculous! Learn to do it yourself, if that works for you....as it does for me.:-)
    transcend_traveller likes this.
  2. transcend_traveller

    transcend_traveller GSpusi

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    South PA
    Recently I noticed something unusual with this guide strap. it is rubbing on top of the triple tree. i checked the microfiche and the drawing has a screw (item #3) to hold the strap (item #4). I checked the bike again and sure enough there is a tapped hole on the bottom of the triple tree. I checked with the dealer and he said my model does not have the screw. Can anyone please confirm this? i have a 2010 F650GS.
    bowden2.jpg bowden1.jpg
  3. transcend_traveller

    transcend_traveller GSpusi

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    Thanks. i have been slowly trying to learn and do everything myself. So far i did all the accessory installation, fluid and tire changes myself. @JimVonBaden had a tech workshop in April where some folks helped me change the suspension fluid. Next up are brake fluid and fuel filter change. Hopefully next tech day i will learn to adjust the valve clearances.
    mandatedmotorvation and shuswap1 like this.
  4. bmwroadsterca

    bmwroadsterca RadioFlyer

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    Your bike definitely has that screw. My wife has the same bike. I have had to remove that screw to do some work on it so I know it well. Your dealer is mistaken.

    Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
    transcend_traveller likes this.
  5. transcend_traveller

    transcend_traveller GSpusi

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    Thanks. looks like it has fallen off then :uhoh
  6. 413Sean

    413Sean Been here awhile

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    New gs owner, longtime Beemer rider here. Question is the clunking from the front brake rotors while riding on the gravel and fire trails. I see that it has bobbins holding on the front rotors(same as my r1100rt). Exactly how much is too much slop on them? Mine is a 2010 f800gs 24k on it, just bought it in wenesday afternoon and put about 3 tanks of fuel threw it. Very nice scooter, minus the stock seat just like all beemers......
  7. 413Sean

    413Sean Been here awhile

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    Oh ya mine as well introduce myself to this crowd with a pic 20180830_193714.jpg 20180901_174232.jpg
    Tigershark48 and XT Traveler like this.
  8. The Maz

    The Maz Clueless and lost

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    By the looks of the picture, you have risers on and the screw might have been removed to make the cables work. Had to do that on my f800gsa to accommodate the risers. Are you the first owner?
    JRWooden likes this.
  9. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    Good catch Maz I think you could be on to something there ....!
  10. Rob Rough Rider

    Rob Rough Rider Adventurer

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    I have a f650gs twin 2011 and when I ride bumpy dirt roads and a little off the beaten path the coolant squirter out of the small hole on the top of the overflow tank catch the wind and ends up all over me is that normal. Check level before rides seems to in range
  11. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    No - not normal ... but has happened to me. It is almost always caused by air trapped in the cooling system. It is difficult to properly "bleed" the air out of cooling system on these bikes.
    It takes a special touch....

    Here is a very clever post on the issue:
    Post 11: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13698738#post13698738

    And while your mileage may vary here is my re-write of the above post with some notes based on my experience:
    If it works for you, and I ever meet you ... you buy the first round :freaky Here goes:

    Successfully bleeding the cooling system of the BMW F650/F800 twins
    (Extracted from an ADVRider post by Joel Wisman – service mgr @ Gateway BMW)

    The factory method does not always work for getting the air out of the cooling system and the bike does not self bleed at all. After 2 service bulletins describing different methods of bleeding, BMW finally said "too hell with it" and made a special tool to do the job that costs a ton. We now have that special tool, but before we got it, I came up with a method that has always worked for me.

    Side note: The hose from the catch reservoir comes off the BOTTOM
    So if you just disconnect it like you would on most vehicles it will drain its contents out onto the floor, your pants, the bike... whatever… be careful ;-)
    In the shop manual they recommend pinching the hose shut with a clamp.

    What I did was bleed the air off at the water pump BEFORE removing the cap which also released any pressure. Then when I removed the rad cap I let the res drain into the rad for less mess in the parking lot. Don't want to upset anyone.

    1: Point the bike on light downhill slope if available and PERFORM THE FOLLOWING PROCESS ON THE SIDE STAND (not the center stand)
    SLOWLY fill the radiator until it is FULL TO THE TIPPY-FRIGG’N- TOP
    leave cap off Also, leave catch tank empty until near the end of this process.

    2: Open the TWO bleed screws & bleed till air stops coming out, then retighten.
    * at water pump – screw with the copper sealing washer
    * T30 cap screw ~2” above starter motor on the left cylinder

    3: Fill radiator back to the tippy top and replace radiator cap.

    4: Start bike and idle for a few minutes, open bleed screw at the water pump for a few seconds and retighten.

    5: Rev engine to 4,000 rpm or so and rock bike slowly from side to side with rpms high, then hold straight or center stand and open bleed screw for a few more seconds - coolant will be HOT – be careful!

    6: Shut off bike and allow to cool down (at least 30 minutes, carefully open radiator cap and fill to tippy top, replace radiator cap.

    7: Start bike and allow to idle till cooling fan comes on.

    GOOD RESULT: If it took a long time for the fan to come on, and the entire radiator is too hot to touch for very long from behind, and the fan is blowing off a lot of heat, go ride, everything is working!

    BAD RESULT: If the cooling fan comes on pretty quick, the back of the radiator is not too hot to touch continuously everywhere, and the fan is not blowing off a lot of hot air but rather just warm air from the hot motor and exhaust surfaces …

    You failed, repeat steps above.
    transcend_traveller likes this.
  12. BigBaltic

    BigBaltic Adventurer

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    Jul 18, 2018
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    Chicago
    How involved is it to replace the rear brake fluid? Mine is super dirty, I basically got a new-old-stock bike (2016 MY, 260 miles on it in July 2018) and the fluid is super dark. Don't really feel like paying for someone to do it if I can do it myself.
  13. shuswap1

    shuswap1 Long timer

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    It's easy-Peasy, in my experience with the wife's F7 and mine. If the reservoir is clean itself, then I just suck out the old fluid and replace, being careful not to get any air bubbles entrained. In my case the reservoirs were both lined with a white-ish film, so they were removed and cleaned as part of the procedure. After filling the reservoir I had the wife operate the brake while I bled the system, re-filling the res BEFORE it got too low and sucked in air. Took 2 - 4 fillings to get new fluid coming from the caliper.
    Cleanliness is absolutely essential, as is a well-trained brake operator.

    As reference, my old 2003 DRZ has its original fluid and it still looks pretty good. Brakes still work beautifully, too. I might change it some day, we'll see, hate to mess with something that works perfectly now.
  14. cgguy09

    cgguy09 Scientiæ Cedit Mare

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    Hey team,
    Truly a stupid question: I have the 2014 F800GSA with the touratech upper crash bars. When doing maintenance, it's a bitch to get the tupperware off, mostly because there are 500 bolts holding the difference pieces together and connecting them to the frame. The crash bars make it all the harder.

    My questions are: (1) When you do maintenance, are you guys removing the crash bars?
    (2) Is there an easy way to remove the plastics?

    I'm asking because I'm getting ready to do the valve check and coolant flush and I want to remove all that plastics before that happens.

    I am admittedly missing my 1150, much easier to work on the engine (Although, I won't discuss the hours I spent getting in & out of the battery)

    -cFogs
  15. Biff's R

    Biff's R Hill William

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    I have an electric tire pump that worked wonderfully on my R1150R, but on the 800GS the accessory outlet keeps shutting off if i need to pump up the tires. Is there another pump I should use, or is the outlet not rated for something like that?
  16. The Maz

    The Maz Clueless and lost

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    Not rated for that.
    I put a pigtail off my battery for that specific use. I also use the pigtail for mr battery tender.
    Biff's R and ChicoProf like this.
  17. bmwroadsterca

    bmwroadsterca RadioFlyer

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    Lanark County near Ottawa ON
    Don't forget to put a fuse in line to the new socket. Most people put the second socket wired direct to the battery on the opposite side of the ignition switch from the factory outlet.

    Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
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  18. Biff's R

    Biff's R Hill William

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    I'll run a SAE plug out to the opposite side of the on that is run for the Gherbing jacket. Thanks
  19. JRWooden

    JRWooden Homeless motorcycle vagabond ... and ... loving it

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    I found an 6" adapter cord that goes from male-gerbing to female-SAE so that I didn't have to wire in another harness set.
  20. Biff's R

    Biff's R Hill William

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    That's a great idea, thanks.