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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Prutser, Jul 22, 2017.
The Motorworks unit looks exactly like the unit Rick Jones sells (Motorrad Elektrik)
I think the Boxer Supplies one looks like the 1st generation EI unit, but it's been a while since I've seen one. I had one; maybe I sent it to Stagehand? The Motorworks one is a later EI unit (same as the Motoren Israel one).
They all require the special module because it does the advance. Note that if you buy just a module (by itself) from Motoren Israel it's not the same as the one you get with the EI system they sell.
That’s the one I had on my bike, and we know how that went...
I've got them on my 3 G/,S's, the G/S has the original EI unit and works fine, the 2 GS's have the later Siemens unit with the HES fitted from the outside so it can be carried as a spare, (John Olive supplies the same unit but anodised red!
All 3 of my units get their advance and retard from the ICU electronically. from our research we think the later units may be made by Siemens we don't know about the early units except that they are occasionally troublesome. The later units appear to be better.
Believe it or not we don't all memorize everything you say. :) What happened?
Didn’t run well and was a bastard to get started. Took me ages of messing as the guy who installed it said the ignition was fine.
Then Prutser pointed out it was running shit and things clicked into place.
I think there is a problematic batch (or more then one) but I sold 20 new units and none of them gave problems with stalling. Bikes run better on them I noticed and heard.
I just ordered one today. I'll keep my OEM Bean Can as a spare and install the NEW one.
When it arrives, and I get it installed, I'll report back about how it performs.
So hmmm.... where did you are that in our fair country? May want one too...
Budd's BMW in Oakville, Ontario. BMW Motorad dealer. I just did a copy and paste of the images and the parts numbers from others earlier in this thread in an email, called the parts counter first, and then sent the follow-up email. I had a response an hour later with the price as well as a 2 week (anticipated) delivery from Germany. I find (at least for me) that alot the younger guys and girls at the BMW Motorad parts counters really know little about airheads. There is a little hand holding involved.
I enquired about this a while ago and my BMW dealer told me no stock - Germany. Maybe I should go and ask again
Siemens related to the Hall Trigger within the unit, not the total unit.
I just installed this new BMW beancan on my R100GS and experienced immediate problems. I should note that prior to installing the new beancan the bike was running perfectly with the original beancan. After I installed the new beancan the engine would surge at idle RPM and would occasionally cut out. During the test ride, the engine would occasionally stumble during acceleration from a stop. The engine also stalled a few times at stop lights. When I got back home I re-installed the old beancan, took the bike for a ride and everything worked perfectly again. The faulty unit is already packed up and being sent back to the dealer.
Thank you for your report. I will stick with rebuilding the original when it's needed. Actually I may buy and rebuild one to have on hand when it's needed. Appreciate your feedback.
I've just installed mine. My observations from the from the first 300 km. (Maybe 5 trips out)
I. Install was "plug and play". In your hand the armature seems to spin much easier than the OEM Beancan as you would expect.
2. Started right up. The new unit is EXTREMELY sensitive to small adjustments clockwise and counter clockwise (Advancing and retarding the ignition)
3. I think I have it 95% dialed in. Bike definitely seems to excelerate harder than before the install.
4. 80-110km smooth as a silkworms fart. 120kph very smooth. 130-140 slight vibration I THINK wasn't there before (Could be in my mind) I might try advancing the ignition (turning counterclockwise) ever so slightly.
All in all......I'm very happy.
At what rpm are you experiencing the vibration.
Thanks for the update, keep us posted on any other observations.
Having Problems I think are related to this NEW Bean Can.
It started with a slight surging at low revs. (Gradually getting more noticeable)
Yesterday I left for a weekend bike trip. It was super hot in Toronto, and the bike cut out on the 401 (about 20 minutes into the ride)- completely dead. While waiting for CAA. I tried it and it started. Moved it off the road.
Long story short.......I just rode 600 km and was lucky to get the bike back to the house. The bike cut out a second time 3 hours later without any notice at 100 kph and was completely dead. It would not fire AT ALL. Lots of battery Checked all fuses and everything was good. After it cooled awhile it fired right up. I continued on.
Battery is good.
I have the 450 watt Euro Electrics set up with an on Board Dash voltmeter. During the ride, even when the bike was running like absolute crap I am getting a very healthy 13.8 - 13.85 volts consistently @ 4,000 RPM.
During the ride the bike became worse and worse to ride at low RPMS, and would surge and "buck" from 50 - 75 kpm, like you would see someone who has a 1/2 hour experience riding. It was ridiculous. It got worse and worse and like I said, lucky to get home. I had to feather the clutch sometimes in 50 kph zones rather that "surge and buck" my way through. I felt like I was a novice rider on a horse rather than an experienced MC rider.
Weather temperate was COLD. Woke up to 7 c in the morning and the same issues grew gradually worse. (I am mentioning this as I rode the bike during the last two days in super hot and quite cold weather with no change. Only change for the worse.
It was only at about 95 - 100 kph where it was ride able.....and even then something wasn't right......like a very slight misfire......something happening.
I immediately checked;
1. Switched to a different petcock on the bike (the GS PD has two) no difference.
2. Fresh High test fuel on the trip.
3. Pulled the plugs, both the same and a nice brown/tan color. High tension spark leads leads (fairly new) have no issues
4. Pulled BING carb bases. The small holes on the bottom of the float bowls are free and clear. Float Bowls are spotless. Floats (recently replaced) move easily. New coak base gaskets recently installed.
5. Idled the bike. (Not running great). Sprayed highly volatile electrical contact cleaner at each carb connection - plastic intakes as well as the rubbers (recently NEW) and no change in RPM what so ever. I don't believe I have any air leaks.
6. At highway speed - pulled off the rubber Gas Tank vent tube for a few minutes and absolutely no difference (not a pinched vent tube. (I've had this before)
That's it for tonight.
Tomorrow I am pulling the NEW Bean Can off and installing the old Bean Can (it had no issues when removed and operated as it should)
I'll report back what the result is.
Sounds similar to what I experienced when a normal bean can gradually failed at the plug to the wire harness. Basically, there was intermittent contact and when I unplugged the bean can, the plug fell apart in my hand.
Confirmed. Its the new BMW Bean can.
I swapped out the new unit and put the original Bean Can back in (I had scribed with a Dental pick a reference line before removing it so I wouldn't have to mess with the timing).
Started right up. Took it for a test ride and noticed right away;
1. No stumbling or surging at all.
2. Pulls hard. I think its more how bad the other unit was as the old Bean Can now feels like I've had a performance upgrade.
3. Out for a short highway jaunt......pulls hard on acceleration. From 100 to 140 kph (for a very short blast) it pulls really well.
Now the big question is I'm taking the defective unit back to Budd's BMW and will see what they say. Apparently I have a one year 20k warranty on the part....
Will keep you posted.
I would strongly advise against buying this unit until there is some communication from BMW (somehow) that the problem has been fixed.