New Scotts Damper Mounting for KTM

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Tim, May 10, 2004.

  1. QMan

    QMan prof. dirt mover

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    I've been looking into the same setup for a few weeks now (must be christmas :D ) but got a question concerning the weld on... Is it hard to do? Doesn't it screw the frame and is it VERY rigid?
    It seems to me that this 'weld on' thing is rather frigid... or am I wrong here.

    I thought the KTM Sommer raising kit was 69 euros?

    Hmm... pictures of that weld-on requested plz... :D

    Oh one more thing the clamp MIGHT work (non-weld kit) if you got enough space on top of the frame... but usually this isn't the case due to steering lock in the way and not so clean welding :p
    So don't bother, you WILL need a weld-on kit, shame tho.
    Check the Rallye's they have a special KTM factory steering head plate with intergrated raisers and damper mounting...

    BTW KTiM, did you had to extend the cables or did it work with the original ones?

    Q
    #21
  2. Tim

    Tim Long timer

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    rapiti, as far as I can remember the kit uses the stock bar clamps and just consists of the damper mounting, risers and longer bolts. The damper mount is (I think) flat on the bottom but it is (as you can see in some of the pix above) milled on the top.
    #22
  3. Mack

    Mack Gone, but never forgotten. RIP, Mack...

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    QMAN, IMHO, the weld on tower installation is pretty straight forward, I felt the prep was the biggest hassle, just trying to be carefull around the wiring, etc. with my high speed grinder when I took the frame down to bare metal. My tower is very rigid, it is welded to the frame gusset just behind the steering head.
    #23
  4. Renazco

    Renazco Formerly AKA Boejangles

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    PM'ed ya..
    #24
  5. Renazco

    Renazco Formerly AKA Boejangles

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    I'll let Mack chime in on the photo..
    [​IMG]
    #25
  6. Tim

    Tim Long timer

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    OK Mack, what's the new piece of bling on the left? :evil
    #26
  7. Mack

    Mack Gone, but never forgotten. RIP, Mack...

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    Man, can't a guy get a little sleep?

    The pic is of the Sommer alloy damper mount bridge, the steel risers, and the longer bolts. I included the damper, so people could see the steped lever on mine, a straight (non-steped) lever is available as well, not sure which is correct, it may not matter in most applications, as long as the lever clears everything on a full sweep, and the tower height is set accordingly.

    (The round stem nut and damper mount in the upper left hand corner is a VFR 800 damper mount, that I just tossed in as another mount example. The stock stem nut is replaced with this one, and then the damper mount clamps to the circumference of the new stem nut!)
    #27
  8. rapiti

    rapiti IOR Veteran

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    Thanks all! So with freight, and less damper, we're looking at USD ~$100, right? What other bling (thanks Tim!) should be on the list from Sommer that we can't get stateside? Don't say full Akra or Sebring! :D Blue paint, so it can come surface freight?! :rofl

    I hope I found the right thread this time. And Mack, rather than bitching about night shift sleep patterns, better 'splain them trick-looking bits if you are going to post them! James, I would still like to see your photos if someone will host them.

    So as I weigh my Christmas budget, can I ask about total cost for the Fastway conversion in THIS thread? :hide
    #28
  9. Mack

    Mack Gone, but never forgotten. RIP, Mack...

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    The Fastway pegs run around $100, (approx) and the 2004 OEM alloy peg hanger and pin will run $56 (this is after the 15%KTMtalk discount)

    Between the high total cost, and the fact that my install was not plug and play, (Lots of grinding involved in getting the F3 bushings to fit properly) I would not recomend this mod, unless you really need the legroom.

    To be fair, if I had the Fastway pegs on the Duke when I went down, I seriously doubt I would have broken my leg! Still debating if I should put a set on the Duke, but I think I will go with the Rally pegs.
    #29
  10. rapiti

    rapiti IOR Veteran

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    Is the '04 LH peg hanger different from original only on the end where the peg fastens? Are you talking anything more than 1" of drop? And don't answer this last if you don't want to, but how would the Fastways have saved your leg?

    I am happy to whip out the Makita & torch to combine some pegs into homojomo Rallye peg wannabes. That was the ONE thing I wanted to pick up in France last Summer! The only day we were near a big KTM dealer was on a Monday! :nod The good news is; I was so thoroughly in vacation mode, I had forgotten what day it was :thumb

    Glad to hear you are recovering! Did your buddy ever buy an F-28? Another neighbor is getting the itch :wink:
    #30
  11. Mack

    Mack Gone, but never forgotten. RIP, Mack...

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    The interface issue with our early L/H steel peg hanger is entirely in the footpeg end, the steel part we have is male, which goes inside the female tangs of the pegs our bastardised LC4 only left peg. The newer alloy peg hanger is female, allowing the L/H Fastway peg to mount, or the later RFS/EXC pegs as are mounted on the 2004 up ADV's and 625's. When the Fastway F3 pegs have the bushings installed in the low position, the drop is 3/4" inch back, and 3/4" inch down. (The alloy peghanger does not resolve the issue of not being able to lower the shifter a tooth either, and IHMO, this will be even more of an issue when the Fastways are mounted in the low position.) Creeper, my dealer tells me that Moose does not make a LC4 replacement lever??

    I had three breaks in my left leg, the major injury I sustained was a spiral fracture to my left distal tibia, it was pretty bad, I have a 18" IM Nail (IM= inside the bone) in my Tibia now. I had on full gear with CE armor, but sadly the bike snapped so hard to the right, that my left leg was knocked off the peg, and touched down with a good foot plant just as the bike snapped back into my left leg. I don't really feel the Duke II needs a damper, but in this rare case, a slimey Texas low water crossing, I think one would have helped, but even more so if my foot had not been knocked off the peg, and I had just lowsided and gone down with the bike, I feel the armor would have let me walk away without any inury, excepting my pride that is. (Hope that all makes sense, I find it a bit hard to explain.)

    Rob still has his F24, I don't think he is actively shopping for an F28, as he seemed pretty discouraged over the asking prices, but I am pretty sure he is keeping an eye out for a good deal.
    #31
  12. rapiti

    rapiti IOR Veteran

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    A plant. Footpeg grip. I see. Thank you for explaining.
    #32
  13. d0gWateR

    d0gWateR Goat Stuntaz DSMC

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    Thanks for bumping this thread back up near the top. I was just searching for this exact thread and couldn't find it through the damn search engine. I have the standard "spacers" from Touratech, but feel the bars are still too low while standing.

    My need for a damper and the info and this thread are the 1-2 punch for this aplication. Thanks again advriders!

    Cheers!
    [​IMG]
    #33
  14. Stobie

    Stobie Mr. Motivated Supporter

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    Mack, you're about to talk me out of the Fastways. I was mainly going with the Fastways to save that 3/4" in the bar risers. Seated leg room is no problem, it's standing room I'm after (6'4"). I already have the bracket ordered from Munn (on perpetual backorder right now), but you, Velocibiker, and Kirkmoon have all cited what a PITA it is to get it working. Are we talking TONS of grinding?
    #34
  15. Mack

    Mack Gone, but never forgotten. RIP, Mack...

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    Not so much tons, but I wanted a good fit that would last, and did not want to take too much off, so it is basically detail work, and a pretty expensive total bill for the hanger, pin, and pegs. I expect I will be pretty happy once I am actually using mine offroad.
    #35
  16. Tim

    Tim Long timer

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    Mack, would the current ('04) LC4 pegs be a better choice than the Rallye pegs? Although I haven't compared them side by side the LC4 items look wider than the Rallye ones. I guess the only problem would be that you would need the hangers to go with them.
    #36
  17. Mack

    Mack Gone, but never forgotten. RIP, Mack...

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    I would say go for the Rallye pegs, OR the Fastways if you need the additional legroom. If one did not have to purchase the 04up L/H peghanger to install the 04up pegs, I would agree with getting the *pegs you mention, rather then the Rallye pegs but the *RFS pegs are not improved enough to warrant the increased cost of their installation, IMHO.

    *I am not positive as we don't have online parts fiches stateside for the 04up ADV's, but I think the 04 ADV pegs are the same as the RFS pegs, and if not they are very similar in design. (Why do I always digress so.......)



    2005 New Years Resolution: To aspire to lesser levels of digression in my verbose pontifications. ie: talk less
    #37
  18. Mack

    Mack Gone, but never forgotten. RIP, Mack...

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    O' and Tim since that island of yours is crawling with cash, just Let me know when you want me to order the Fastway F3 pegs for you. :lol3 (And please take good care of that Africa Twin.) :wink:
    #38
  19. Tim

    Tim Long timer

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    Trying not to spend too much more on the 640. I'm pretty happy with it as it is now, but I do see one of these in my future :evil (at the moment not for at least another year)

    [​IMG]

    The At is sitting here waiting for you. This is exactly how it looks at the moment.

    [​IMG]
    #39
  20. Mack

    Mack Gone, but never forgotten. RIP, Mack...

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    Tim, it looks like a perfect fit!

    The rest of you, here is a link to an installation of a top bar clamp Scotts damper mount. The installation is on a Duke II, but this is the same as for our LC4's. Nothing really new, but this shows were the tower is welded, etc.

    http://teamincomplete.com/projects/duke/ktmdukeiisteerin.html

    For those buying dampers second hand, over eBay, etc. Be aware Scotts recomends that the dirtbike damper be used, rather then the roadbike damper. (The dirtbike damper only dampens away from center, the roadbike damper dampens both ways.) I am not positive, but I believe this is to allow quicker steering on the dirtbikes. You can identify a roadbike damper buy looking at the top of the damper, at the front of the plate, between the top plate retension screws there will be an engraved "R" IMHO, this is not a major deal, I have been running my roadbike damper from my VFR800 on my 640 ADV, and it has worked fine, IMO, much better to have this damper then no damper at all. I would bet money that on a 350lbs D/S it is not the issue it would be on a lightweight bike used for MX riding, but I am guessing on this. I noticed on the Scotts site, that there illustrated parts list shows the different metering needles, I may just see if I can swap the road needle for the dirt needle when I next refresh the dampers internals.

    4015-01 Needle only (1) (Dirt Bike) $15.95
    4015-02 Needle only (1) (Road Bike)

    http://scottsonline.com/indexmain.html
    #40