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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by tangerine, Jan 15, 2015.
Really? Can you give me a link to that datasheet?
I'm curious too b/c despite LED headlight upgrade I wasn't able to power 38W grips and 90W vest on full power.
Somewhere I read about 170 W (Polo Website, only german datasheet available ---> https://www.polo-motorrad.de/de/mot...2017.html#p=1&limit=30&order=position&dir=asc).
Did you upgrade a LED Headlight? If yes, which one? I don't know whih size would fit without major modifications and in Germany you need special tested devices (e-signature)...... :-(
I have received the information directly from the factory. I think I asked them via Facebook or email.
Here is the email:
giorno 20 lug 2018, alle ore 16:04, Information <firstname.lastname@example.org> ha scritto:
grazie per la sua richiesta e attenzione verso la nostra azienda.
Il generatore ha capacità per sostenere servizi supplementari oltre a quelli già presenti sulla moto , ha una capacità di 350 w.
thx for this information. But why the hell is that data nowhere else available? I mean, for focused riders who plan to upgrade their machines, information like that are realy important.
Kind regards from Germany
it is a senseless SWM trade policy. it is the only thing I strongly criticize of this industry.
Makes me wonder at what rpms those 350w arrive.. even with LED headlight bulb and auxiliary lights off it could not power 38w grips and 90w vest without voltage dropping below 12.7; this is cruising at 60mph.
Is it possible there is a bad connection somewhere?
Unlikely. However the voltmeter is built-in in grips running off connector so don't know what exact voltage was on battery.
They certainly fitted big ass battery ytx14
You have probably mentioned this cyclopathic but dont recall, is your battery going flat when operating what you mentioned above?
I didn't dare to try and get strangled in the middle of high desert. As soon as I saw voltage drop I turned off fog lights and reduced heat on vest to keep in 12.9-13.1 range.
I'm planning to LED parking and license plate lights but that will free 5-10w at most. I also haven't measured the actual draw; 38 and 90w are published data
Edit: I would like to resolve this to make Lithium battery switch possible.
The low voltage at your meter may be just the wiring to the meter and or accessories themselves. Really need to check the voltage at the battery.
Dont think I'll be riding with you anytime soon. The thought of getting strangled just doesn't appeal to me.
Remind me; is the connector behind headlight on main fuse together with everything or it's on fog light circuit? I checked on that at some point but memory fails me at the moment. The volts I am getting is what comes at the connector.
Not to worry mate riding with me pretty safe if you break frame I will find you a good welder.
Sounds like you are with safe limits, I reckon at the battery terminals without the expected voltage drop to the grips the battery will be happy
I'm not sure. The only thing I run of the bike acc circuit is the power outlet I use to run the GPS. I have run a separate power wire from the battery with its own fuse to run the standard headlight and driving lights all running of their own relays.
I'd do this for anything drawing more than a couple of amps.
For anyone interested I've just finished making a couple of new driving lights for the SD.
Set them up last night. So far I'm happy. Need a good night ride to see what they are really like.
Here's some reviews:
I had some fanless but they don't put that much light and reflectors in our headlights are very picky about accurate filament location so they worked pretty bad.. just got a new set Cougar x-small for replacement.
I don't like the idea of having a fan, all previous LED failure was attributed to fan fail but it seems that the tech isn't there yet and 4 year insurance was only $6 I suspect I will use it at some point.
And as it was pointed out we need H4/9003 bulb good luck.
I have considered that but don't really want to add another failure point and the space under the seat is limited. But maybe it's a good idea SWM has only few circuits so everything is running off the same circuit
congratulations for the excellent work done here
Found some pictures this is how bike was loaded when frame broke:
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