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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by tangerine, Jan 15, 2015.
I rode it there; there was no alternative
Remember we had discussion on tire pressures? This is the sticker off my bike
It seems like, as per my experiences, its brilliantly written reverse, off road should be 1 bar for front in general and 1.2~1.5 bar for rear.
On road, 22 psi for front and 29 psi for rear was written on my DRZ.
And in general, for the same bike, for the off road conditions its recommended lower pressures. So basically it seem reverse
Theres a fair amount of movement of the rear tail light/number plate light assembly. If you have the pannier frame on your bike its not to hard to remove this play.
I made a small boss up about 20mm long, slightly tapered where it sits against the number plate holder to allow it to point down slightly so its square with the pannier brackets cross bar. The diameter was enough so a length of car heater hose would slip over.
A hole was drilled in the appropriate place in the number plate holder so the boss was central to everything.
Pictures will explain it better.
The boss fitted up.
And with the short length of heater hose fitted.
This has been fitted for awhile with no adverse affects.
You are much more diligent than me; I just drilled a couple holes and zip-tied it; one on each side. Wasn't taking chances loosing it somewhere down the road
Did someone try a bigger rear sprocket for the slower technical sections? Original rear sprocket is 40 teeths, on the TE 630 Husky it's 43. I am not sure it would make sense to just add 3 teeth. Is there a 45 teeths available.????
Why don't you lower the bike with the Koubalink parts? (HL1 and HL2) they are made for Husqvarna TE630, but they are adaptable on SWM SD.
I wend down one tooth on the CS sprocket on my 630, as 6th is still even very tall
I’ll do that, down one tooth on the front sprocket
Did someone try to reduce the turning radius?
IIRC guys in RS650R thread did; ground stops
removing 1 tooth on the pinion is equivalent to increasing about three on the rear crown ...... remember it
Yes, that's right, but removing 1 tooth on the front doesn't necessarily mean changing the chain, whereas 3 more teeth on the rear crown means a new chain...
Remember that the 650SD doesn't have the wide gearbox of the 630TE. It has the narrow gearbox of the 630SM.
6th is quite short on the SD.
check first with
Still bike (at least T) geared quite tall you don't need 6th until you hit 45mph/72kmh and bike doesn't come alive in 6th until you are 80-90mph. And shift point from 1->2 is 17mph
@OP get Arrow map it fixes low RPM fueling and makes low speed smoother.. that and 14t front.
I didn't know that detail, thanks
Actually, 72 kmh seems quite slow enough to shift to 6th gear. What is your expectation ?
That may be but IMHO the bike doesn't have enough pep in 6th until you hit 110-120km and you need to slip clutch below 12mph/20kmh.. both signs of geared too high.