Try jamming a flat blade screw driver between the nut and the airbox surface and apply upward pressure while turning the nut, This pulls the bolthead against the inside of the airbox and may hold it well enough to get the nut off,
Might have to do that. When I apply a socket to the bolt to turn it, I can hear the nut inside clicking turning with it. Cheers. Not too sure. The nut is inside the airbox. The bolt is the bit that I can get to with a socket. I've had another look and I don't see how I could get a flat scredriver onto the nut.
then put it under the bolt head. you are trying to pull the other end tight against the airbox to keep it from turning.
Hehehe damn air boxes, i used a electric screwdriver to rotate the bolt so fast it melted the plastic and came off
Hello, i live in France and i'm about to buy a 650 superdual x to a friend, 20 000 km (about 12,500 miles), This bike seems almost perfect for me on the paper, and after a test ride, i have several questions about it : 1- At 12500 miles should I have the distribution replaced? Any idea of the price ? I can't find informations about it. 2- I'm looking for a solution to lower the bike, i have heard the Koubalinks lowering kit from the 630 TE may be adapted ( https://www.koubalinks.com/husqvarna/sm-te ) someone have any info on this ? 3- I would like to replace the very heavy luggage rack with a small one made of aluminium or plastic, any ideas where we can we find that (in EU if possible) ? 4- How to modify the position of the handlebars? during the test, my arms were very bent, 5- Can we improve the steering stop to improve the steering angle? 6- Do you have any other known problems or ideas to improve this bike? I did my best to gather as much as info as i can before posting here, t but I don't understand English very well Thank you in advance for your answers, looking forward to meeting a foreign traveler in France
As the bike cant be ridden for pleasure where I live at the moment I decided to check and re grease the head stem bearings. After 19000 Km the bearings still had plenty of grease on the rollers and no signs of contamination was evident. The bearings themselves were made in Japan.
Bonjour Moutonnoir, Avez-vous utilisé un service de traduction pour votre message? Si oui, alors certains des mots que vous avez utilisés ne se sont pas bien traduits. PM moi et je vais essayer de répondre à vos préoccupations Woody aka Andre'
Good to know Mrsdnf! So far, I am very happy with the way the SDX has been put together. I have only two bitches about the bike, the poor fuel mapping from the factory, (now fixed with a TPS reset and O2 delete). And, the fork oil, which is on the to-do list. All bikes have little things that aren't 100%, but I am quite impressed with it for now.
The filter/strainer on the fuel pump is not available as a separate item. I pulled the fuel pump out to check this filter/strainer. Mine was spotless. I dont know whether I've been lucky with fuel or the filter lets a lot of crud through. Saying that I have been using a fuel additive which I know nothing about but according to the manufacturer they reckon its the best thing out since sliced bread. Whether that has made a difference I dont know. The inside of the tank was spotless with no sign of contamination or rust. I took a few rough measurements of the filter to try and find an aftermarket item.
The internal diameter of the mount appeared to be about 20mm. I could not get an accurate measurement. The strainer/filter has two layers.
A couple of measurements of the fuel pump. Looking at the above picture it appears that the round item with two diameters (the middle piece) could be a filter. This is also not available as a separate item.
I never rode my bike with the standard map so cant comment. Others have commented that the poor mapping was fixed with the Arrow map installed with the standard mufflers still fitted. I agree that the forks are probably the worst thing on the bike. The standard oil is supposed to be 5wt. I had my oil replaced along with the seals which are now SKF with Motul 5wt oil. I believe that the amount of oil was changed from standard but cannot remember how much. They are a lot better now than what they were standard. After modifying this bike to suit my needs I would not hesitate in buying another one if I had to. Its not overburdened with electronic oo's ah's and has the basics to what our laws allow. Even the ABS can be turned of from the rear only or both front and rear. The wheel bearings are all good, chains and sprockets wearing well and it has never let me down anywhere. Now just need to be able to get out and ride it again. If this Virus keeps going on I may even have to disassemble the rear suspension links and swing arm pivot out for a look see and lube just for something to do.
1. No idea on price. I guess it depends a lot on condition and servicing. 2. From memory there is a post in this thread somewhere about changing the links. 3. The rack is heavy. TE 630 racks may fit. 4. The handlebar clamps can be turned around 180 degrees to gain a little more room. 5. ? 6. Most of the problems appear to be one of things. The main one would be the lower subframe cap screws coming loose. These should be replaced with quality items, Loctited in place and correctly torqued up.
1st shot is from a Kemco? brand fuel pump kit i bought as a spare off ebay. The other 2 shots are from a previous post years ago where someone found a matching fuel filter. I found one at Repco in Oz, it was about 18mths ago so cant remember details to well.
[QUOTE = "mrsdnf, post: 39753617, membro: 432216"] Un paio di misurazioni della pompa del carburante. Guardando l'immagine qui sopra sembra che l'oggetto tondo con due diametri (il pezzo centrale) potrebbe essere un filtro. Anche questo non è disponibile come articolo separato. [/ QUOTE] Il filtro può essere sostituito con un Purflux EP58
Thats good info and find there CapeG650X. Good to know that it can be changed and an alternate available. Purflux EP58