New Thumper: SWM Superdual 650

Yeah, the slight lag between input from your rt hand to response from the bike. Seems it's a common issue looking through here. Having not ridden another one, maybe it was even worse before the remap.
Starting hasn't been a problem, I have stuck a 220CCA Li battery in - though it can understandably be a pig if you're not in N.
Maybe I'll have a look at the valve clearance. It's got 25000km on it, who knows when they were last checked.
But I still wonder if the O2 sensor is having an impact on the fuelling at low throttle., +/- the TPS too. Dunno.

Being a SH bike a full service sounds like a good idea. What battery did you put in?

Yeah you're right, once I'm done with a few things I'll take it to my local fella and see what he can find to fiddle with.

Battery is an SSB LH5L-BS replacing a Yuasa YTX14-BS. Has more CCA but all the Li manufacturers seem a bit cagey on aH figures. I reckon it's somewhere around 6aH, so I'm losing about half compared to the old Lead acid. But there's no drain on it, no heated grips etc etc so shouldn't be an issue. When the battery first turned up I was like wtf? Is this a cardboard display model? - they're so light. As long as you know their limitations, I reckon Li is OK and the price is better these days ($180 delivered)

Barretts turned up this morning - still got a bit of low end lag with them on, but a little better - only now I've noticed a slight surge & delay in return to idle. Still might have a look at the lambda/TPS see what difference it makes. ECU says 02/18 on it so I'm assuming it's Euro4 with the TPS? Haven't had a look yet.

Last few bikes were Africa Twin, Wee-Strom, Duke Scrambler, DR & WR250. So far I reckon the SDX is like the bastard son of the AT & the DR. Certainly top-heavier than I expected, I'm 180cm and if it tips more than about 10degrees I reckon it's going down., but it's got a shit-ton of grunt and is surprisingly good on road. Have to see how she goes on the dirt.

Im in Cairns and have an SD with Arrow map and std cans, it has great throttle response. Also have an RS with single Arrow pipe and map, throttle not so good up to 3000rpm. If you're close by next week im happy to catch up and test them out.

I wouldn't do it; TPS calibration is part of map flash there's no point messing with it if flash was done. As for oxygen sensor ECU is working in open loop mode when you apply throttle; it takes a few seconds after your hand stops to switch to close loop/use of sensor.. removing it will have no effect on throttle response will just increase fuel consumption.

Here in states where ethanol content varies alot I would also worry about overheating engine.. when fuel prices were $4/gal and E85 was at $3 some station owners figured they can make a quick buck by dumping E85 into regular; I suspect it became E30+ at that point. I ended up overheating engine and needing new oil rings on bike fitted with open loop system from factory.. just saying.

Sounds like leaving it alone is the way to go - tbh I think the issue is probably just me coming straight off a WR250 to this and expecting it to be as light & responsive low down.
Thanks for the offer Cape650, whereabouts you at? I'm just in the process of moving Southside, so I might take you up on that once I get sorted.

From what I understand they tame throttle alot on Superdual comparing to RS650R as a part of adventurizing bike. It's a good setup for highway and fire roads but I wish there was a second map switch to make it more responsive.. maybe put a quick throttle if you are riding in woods?

Putting Superdual on diet:
- sealing rims and ditching tubes ~6lbs
- lithium battery 8lbs
- replacing exhaust cans with chinese akros (1.3kg vs 4.5kg, saving 3.2kg/7lbs each) 14lbs
- right side heat shield replace by exhaust wrap.. (in hands it felt almost as heavy as exhaust) TBD

Total ~28lbs or 12.5kg

I suppose passenger pegs but I like to keep my options.

This sounds good, do you have a link to those Aliprovics?

And what do set are you going to use for the rims?

I have used 3M tape to seal rims on other bikes, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WVNWNA4/

Beware that you won't be able to run super-low pressures without tubes..

As for exhausts I got those on AliExpress they're available from many suppliers, eBay, amazon, etc and run $35-50 USD, you want the ones with V-shaped exhaust port and the longer ones. Unfortunately they have arrived after I left the country and I wasn't able to get back to bike due to pandemic. They require to weld spring tabs so you need to find a welder setup to weld stainless.

Here is an example but they have longer version of same pipe they come in 3 sizes:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074CVHHGC/

Thnx for the info!
Maybe i will order them and hope they are not extremely loud! And will hold while doing adv trips.

I am a bit iffy about the rim seals.
And i do like to tubes, cause if it's a small hole you can just fix it. And if it's really f*cked up, you can always put in a new tube.

Rim seal as good as cast wheels my XCo haven't been touched a couple months no loss of pressure. Just make sure to install and cutdown tape properly and I still have a rim strip to additionally secure it.

As for patching tubes my bike is for RTW and I use heavy long lasting tires like Mitas Dakar they're bitch to dismount.. plugging hole is alot easier. If it fails or tire de-beads I carry a spare tube you just need to remove valve and install it. And since bike is loaded there's no point in running less than 12-15psi in front and 20 in rear so chances of popping tire off or spinning aren't high especially on tires that hard.

If you have X and ride off-road consider tubliss system it still saves 1.5-2lbs per wheel. I would still tape the rims even with tubliss, for flexibility.

As for exhausts keep dbkiller in and loctite screw people had lost it

@cyclopathic - Have you mapped your bike to run an after market can? I'm also interest in replacing the existing with some cheaper units (Interim measure before upgrading system).

No. My bike is in storage in Kazakhstan and the dealer I spoke to back last fall in Osh, Kyrgyzstan (14-16hr ride.. the second closest in Balkans, Zagreb many thousands away) haven't had setup yet to apply arrow map. Exhausts and other parts are in there waiting for CV to go away.

I'm not overly concerned to run aftermarket exhaust with stock map it was running rich the spark arrestors on exhaust cans were all black and it ran better when air box got disconnected. I'm not sure if there are any differences btw EU and US models, exhausts, mapping, etc.

Update: my dealer finally got me a new fuel level sensor. The new distributor had just gotten a container full of parts, but this wasn’t among them, so it had to be ordered separately from Italy. Took 6 weeks, some frustration around less than stellar communication, and many squeaky wheel calls and messages from me. When it finally arrived, I was quite surprised to see that the new unit looked identical to the old leaky one-down to the date stamp on it. Seems unlikely they sent me the old, discontinued model. Rather, I think I must have had the updated unit in my bike already, and it still leaked. I did notice upon removing it that the bolts were quite loose, which may well have been part of the problem. Not sure if they left the factory like that or vibrated loose during use. In any case, I now added loctite and torqued them to 6 Nm per service bulletin. My advice: When you take the tank off for any reason, check the torque on these bolts. It might save you a lot of trouble.

Thanks for the update MM2020.

Hi guys,have a new front wheel for the T model in case you need one

Hello all,
Do you know if after market exhausts from TE630 RS650R (FMF, arrow etc) fit on the Superdual?
Thanks

If you are asking about full system not likely the space which pipe is routed through is occupied by ABS unit and by preload adjuster.

The easiest/cheapest upgrade route is to get universal slip-ons and replace stock cans.

Hey Kocyk, did you ever find a way to fix this? Also curious what steering stabilizer you used?