New Thumper: SWM Superdual 650

Maybe a long shot, but i changed the wheel bearings in the front, and it was way better... But i just don't think the SD is made for speeds above 130ish... Don't forget it's a dualsport.

My T will bobble too and found that if a seated farther back wold go away
I fitted a 21 inch fron and with that the wobbling disappeared

Mine was pretty stable up to 90-95mph (140-150kmh) with Nelson Riggs soft bags. I'd say check rear bearings and wheel alignment.. tires could cause it too.

Weird problem:

When i turn the key and all the lights go on, and i hear the fuelpump buzz, everything seems fine.
Then i pull the clutch and press the ignition button, and NOTHING... no sound no click, just nothing.

When i keep the starterbutton pressed for a few seconds it suddenly fires up without a problem.
This doesn't happen all the time, sometimes the problem doesn't happen and it starts right away, but sometimes i turn the ignition off and try again, and after pushing the button a couple of times it fires up without a problem.

Sometimes it takes 2 seconds, sometimes 10 seconds.

Any idea's why this is happening??

Sorry for the weird english but i am at work an don't have allot of time...

grtz

There is cycle that has to be completed before start
Make sure the pump has stop before hitting the start

My Triumph is the same way,10 seconds is too much do

The locknut under the positive wire on the starter on my bike was loose causing a similar problem. Removed the positive wire at the starter, tightened the nut, put the wire back on, tightened the positive wire retaining nut and everything has worked fine since.

yeah i am aware of that, i always wait for the bike to become quiet and the count to 9 is finished.
Thnx tho!

thnx for the tip, i will look into it tonight when i get back home! is there a chance you have a picture of those wires? cause i am not the best at wiring and stuff!

I'll try and get a picture tonight.

Was prepping my sons Superdual for him to do a ride tomorrow (he lives in an apartment where bikes get stolen a lot, so it lives in my garage with my bikes) and did a quick check from front to back of bolts etc. Left hand lower sub frame bolt was sheared. I went to check tension and the bolt just spun. Was only using a 1/4 drive ratchet. It is rusty on the break, so been that way for a while, or since I pressure washed it last at least. So I partially stripped it down, disconnected the mufflers from the sub frame and removed the other lower bolt, lifted the rear of the sub frame to expose the bolt holes in the frame, and set about drilling it out.

Had it almost sorted, but couldn't get an ezy out to turn it. Looked like red locktite in there. Didn't want to break my little ezy out, so I drilled it out larger, and snapped the drill off in it. Managed to get most of the drill bit out, ended up spitting chips, drilled it and tapped it to M10 x 1.25. Went to bolt shop and got some new bolts in M10 x 1.25. Decided to not do the right side, just the left. Reassembled, put everything back together and snapped off the right side. With a 1/4 drive stubby ratchet. I literally just nipped it up snug and it popped. No effort at all. The dealer said he'd changed all these bolts because the standard ones are made of cheese. Hmmmmmmm.

Stripped it, drilled it...this one don't want to drill. No matter what I do it wont drill. End up finally getting a hole deep enough for the big ezy out, get that into it, start turning, it's coming...slowly...slowly....snap. There's a chunk of very solidly lodged ezy out in the bolt that's in the hole. Of course I can't reach any of it.

Tools bouncing off walls.

So....now I'm stripping it down to the frame to try and clean the holes out somehow. I've had it apart before a few times, but for the life of me can't remember how to disconnect the fuel hose. The connector is at the bottom at the throttle body. Anyone know how it comes apart? I think I already fucked it with my big fat fingers and my bad attitude.

I really liked the Superdual at first. But now....

@Snowy both of my OEM bolts snapped similarly from fatigue I have the picture in this thread a year+ ago. This is just a weak spot on this bike. I think you can get slightly longer ones put there and it is probably not a bad idea to replace them from time to time.

My X-Country has similar problem it lost 3 out of 4 subframe bolts (they have 2 at the top mount point!) and I had a kickstand and left peg fall off in similar fashion my riding buddy ended up holding bike while I was working on it. Luckily ATV/MX shop was along BDR route so I only rode a few miles with left peg in the bag.

Still like the bike, both of them.

While you are at it check upper shock mount it is also a weak spot mine cracked and needed a welder.

EDIT:

Here is an explanation of what is going on:

What a nightmare. Sorry to hear!

The fuel hose disconnects via a quick coupler. Just squeeze in the tabs from both sides. I’ve had trouble with it too. May need to help it a bit with a flat head driver.

Good luck!

To make it easier to remove the fuel hose from the injector and the two electrical connections l slide the tank forward so the tank is removed from the rear rubber grommet mounts and sit the tank back down with a 50mm spacer under the tank at the front. The fuel pump connector can be removed from the top and there is more room for my big mitt to hold the tabs in on the fuel connector at the injector.

Same here. It definitely improves access to move the tank upwards and forward.

@MotoSly
To check the positive terminal at the starter motor. Remove the negative wiring (black coloured) from the battery. This will prevent accidental shorts.

The terminal in question is on top of the starter motor with the rubber boot covering it looking from the right hand side of the bike located behind the engine and on top of the gearbox (shiny round black item in the picture).



With the rubber boot slid back you can see the terminal with the positive wire retained with a nut.
Hold the terminal/wire to prevent it turning and remove the top nut.
The wire can be removed.
Check how tight the bottom nut is keeping in mind this is just a 6mm bolt so could be easily broken if over tightened. I only nipped this nut up gently.
Replace the positive wire back onto the terminal and again hold the wire/terminal to stop it turning while you do the top nut up.
Holding the wire/terminal while undoing or doing the retaining nut up helps prevent the terminal from rotating.
Reinstall the negative wire at the battery.



I hope this fixes your problem.
It may also pay to check the any earths relating to the starter as well. I removed the black paint under the earth terminal at the starter retaining bolt as well.

I bought Rox 2" bar risers and it turns out the clutch cable is a little tight in standard configuration, i.e. impedes full right turns. I've read that some people had issues with the throttle cable, but that one seems to have enough slack. What's the easiest (and not coming back to bite me...) fix to gain a couple of centimeters of slack? Can I reroute it somewhere under the tank? I was also thinking about rerouting it from under the triple crown, i.e. straight from the steering tube up to the handle bar.

Awesome, thank you for the bearing tip.


What Steering Stabilizer are you using?

I installed the same risers last summer, i did indeed reroute the clutch cable! Ik kan try and make a video about it today. The throttle cable does indeed have enough slack.

I don't use a stabilizer. Still thinking about getting one tho.