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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by tangerine, Jan 15, 2015.
Tell more please Mr. Moose.
Been giving the SD a bit of attention so I can get on the road with it. Working on a couple of mods:
Due to a limit to my amount of knee bend, I need to sit further back on the seat to get comfortable and operate the gearshift easily. So it was off with the seat, remove all but the front dozen or so staples and attack the dreaded "coccyx hump" with surform and sandpaper. Then I made up a shaped piece of foam from an old foam camp mattress - one of those useless cm-thick blue foam jobbies - to raise the "bum hollow" to something close to flat. Had to make a laminate of 3 separate layers adhered together with contact adhesive but it did the job. Flash-off the crumbs with a cigarette lighter flame for a nice smooth edge. Bit of talcum powder at the front leading edge and I was able to slip it in on top of the reshaped foam base. Took a couple of iterations to get it to accommodate my bony arse, but ended up with something acceptable. (I'll grab some proper HD seat foam during the week and do it all again with the right stuff.) I used bulldog clips to stretch and hold the vinyl in place for the trials but I'll staple it on when I'm happy with the results.
Next I rotated the bars back to improve reach when sitting further back. Might have to look into risers to help here. Will see how it goes. Seemed ok standing on the pegs without excessive knee bend.
I wanted to drop the gearshift a spline or two, but I noticed it hits the frame already on the toe-down upshift! I think I can put a bolt thru where the lever's knob currently is and drop that to under the whole lever. Will have to experiment a bit methinks; I'd like to now raise the lever one spline!
Made up a plastic cowl for my old car GPS and fitted that above the dash. Also my GoPro next to it - dunno why, never been into fang movies, but ya never know.
Finally, always been annoyed with trying to use the key with gloves on. Take some power conduit, cut a 4 or 5cm length and square off both ends. Heat up with hot air gun and semi-flatten. Jam key into flattened end while plastic is still... er... plastic and flatten some more. Put some black heatshrink over it all as I only had white conduit. Drill a hole down the far end and put on keyring. Voila!
You've sorted a few things there, nice work.
I will be interested in a post-long ride review of the seat changes. I'm in two minds on that one.
All I did today was make a camel toe...
Fitted pro taper adventure bars (the lower option but higher than most other bends) to mine, works for me.
As far as I could find out, the Forks use a 2 chamber system. So you only changed the oil of the outer chamber.
And yes, seems like the service manual is just copy+paste from the TE630... . Too bad actually. First of all they use the weirdest forks they could find out there and then they don't even try to make it servicable...
(generally speaking the manual from the Husky is really good, because it's like 3 times longer and much more detailed :)
When draining them, I pumped the outer tube and the spring/rod thingy until oil stopped coming out and there was no resistance. Not sure if oil still gets trapped somewhere?
Doesn't matter now, both forks are weeping, so I'll need to pull them apart and service them properly.
Should be educational...
Oh no...I'M sorry to hear that.
There are videolinks some pages before, of how two service Fastace forks. Maybe they are helpful for you.
It would be really interesting to see how the ones on the Superdual acutally work/look. I think you would do the community a great service if you took some photos of the process! :)
...meanwhile I just placed my first spareparts order and I'm about to do the 5000km oil/valve service (1000km service has been done at the dealership when it had onla ~500k on and I'm pretty sure they didn't check the valves)
You would have to ring them to find out more as I wasn't interested when they were talking about it.
Will do. Got a Wilbers remote reservoir shock for my XRx from them and thought they were good dudes to deal with. Have also been pestering Andreani to see if they make a cartridge kit for the Fastace forks, but nil response from them so far - not great customer relations there.
Maybe they will do something but it appears anything with the 600 motor in the SWM range has disappeared. They were the only ones fitted with the Fastace forks as far as I'm aware.
No worries, I will take lots of photos. Have seen a few videos now of similar forks, reckon I've got the concept.
Valve clearance it easy enough to do.
Remove the 4 way coolant hose assembly to give yourself plenty of room.
What gives? Had a look on their website and although there were pics of the SD, as you say - there was nothing in the lineup. No 600 and no adv offering. Strange.
Finally got a response from Andreani (after sending a query in Italian) and they have nothing cartridge-wise for the Fastache forks.
Looking forward to what you uncover with your investigations RVT.
So... My bike wouldn't start again.
Tested the battery and it was a but low at 9.3volt
So i wanted to bumpstart it to be sure.
Here's what i did:
Clamp on the +
Clamp on the -
The minus gave me sparks so i pulled it off.
Turned the ignition, and nothing. No lights no sounds, nothing.
Fuses all seem to be good.
I pulld out the ecu to smell for burn, but i didn't smell anything.
Oh, and battery still gives the same number.
The negative will spark if its not a good contact. Current is flowing through the cables as soon as you make contact with the clamp. With a battery reading 9.3 volts I'd say it will need replacing. Could well be a dead cell.
Is anyone willing to disconnect his ecu and than turn the ignition... Just to see if the dash and or lights work?
Cause mine doesn't.. that way i can rule out the ecu maybe...
Is it 9.3V when not cranking? If so, deal with that first before worrying about the ecu.
As Mrsdnf said, the battery terminal will spark when you first connect jumper leads. Just don't mix up polarity.
Do you have a battery charger?
Nope, i did not mix them :)
I orderd a new battery that will arive tomorrow.
And it's 9.3 with the bike turned off.
I don't have a charger.
Just a quick update on my bike as its just shy of 25,000 Km.
After the head was machined at around 21,000 Km the coolant level in the radiators has not dropped below full. The first time since new which suggests the head was warped from the factory. It also starts better than it ever has as well.
Chain and sprockets have just been replaced. The chain was worn out. The back sprocket showed very little wear. Must be good steel.
A warning to all about the filter screen behind the clutch cover. Mine was replaced with the warranty recall screen. I dont recall when it was put in by the dealer, somewhere around 10.000Km I'd guess.
At 2500 Km it looks like this. Dodged a bullet by it not disintegrating.
The filter screen is a big NONO from SWM. Even the new ones have cracks and loose bits. It's a big shame.
Just started the valve check, but cant get the fuel line off the throttle body? Is there a hack?
EDIT: never mind, just needed lunch and a 2nd pair of helpinghands
...and that oil screen looks not good. I wonder if it would be better to not have one in there at all....
Its the one behind the clutch cover that causes the problems right? not the on on the left side?