New Thumper: SWM Superdual 650

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by tangerine, Jan 15, 2015.

  1. dexterbeef

    dexterbeef Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
    13
    Footpeg choices??

    I am looking to drop the pegs on a 2018 SD X to increase seat to pegs distance and improve knee angle for my ageing body.... 25mm is what I would like, but not sure yet what will be optimum :-) Any other bike's pegs that are almost there and needing a modest tweak is fine. I have a farm workshop and big hammer to make difficult items FIT!

    I've had a trawl back and used the search function, but not really gained any great insights and the same from a trawl around the internet! There were some aftermarket items made for the Husky 630, but they seem to have disappeared now.

    Looking for Europe/UK really, as carriage from Oz will be prohibitive! But why can I get heavy cast metal item from China delivered in 10-14 days for bugger all?? :dunno
    Richarde1605 likes this.
  2. mrsdnf

    mrsdnf Long timer

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    1,079
    Location:
    Lost between the Dandenongs and Yarra Valley
    I've just made a couple of brackets up to drop the footpegs 20mm and back 5mm. I should not have moved them back as it interferes with the side stand spring attachment pivoting mount. Dropping straight down to 25mm would be ok dexterbeef.
    The only thing is you cannot lower the gear lever to suit. I could not even bend my aluminium lever in the vice with a two foot shifter on it. I have no idea how well the aluminium would weld but its not to bad in the standard position.
    The brake lever needs work though as you cannot get it low enough to comfortably use. I'd love to pull the push rod of the master cylinder and modify it but haven't worked out how to remove it. It does have a cam rotating bush to lower the lever but its not enough (for me anyway) to get it low enough.

    [​IMG]

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    The comfort seat has been cut buck about 70mm to give more cockpit room but still needs an Airhawk on it for any sort of comfort for my soft ass.[​IMG]

    The screen has an extension added to help stop buffeting. This works a real treat.

    [​IMG]

    Had an oil leak fro the Banjo bolt on the top rear left hand side of the head. This was tightened carefully not that it felt loose so will have to keep an eye on it. If its still leaks I'll anneal the copper washers.

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  3. CapeG650X

    CapeG650X Been here awhile

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    Kalgoorlie
    Modify std pegs or Fastway pegs will get you some rear/down movement. 20190117_104714.jpg
    dexterbeef, cyclopathic and Rotax655 like this.
  4. mrsdnf

    mrsdnf Long timer

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    The brake lever position cam can be seen at the bottom centre of CapeG650X's picture.
  5. CapeG650X

    CapeG650X Been here awhile

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    Kalgoorlie
    To get lever lower i flipped cam over and drilled a new hole closer to the edge. I also just cut off about 5mm of thread from plunger to allow adjustment. Screenshot_2019-04-14-20-23-55.jpeg
    dexterbeef likes this.
  6. mrsdnf

    mrsdnf Long timer

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    How is the plunger removed from the master cylinder CapeG650X?
  7. DBM

    DBM Let's Just Ride!!

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    Floriduh
    If this were my bike, I would buy a new seal and put a light coat of Permatex on both sides after a good cleaning of all surfaces. Let the repair set up for 48 hours before adding fuel. End of problem.
  8. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    That would work but how about replacing fuel filter afterwards? The team 55 roses had filter clogged and even pump failed on the way to Mongolia. Applying sealant pretty much rules out roadside repair.
  9. dexterbeef

    dexterbeef Adventurer

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    Dec 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    mrsdnf, thank you for the detailed and really useful mods you have made on your bike.

    The peg lowering bracket looks relatively easy to do and looks neat as well :-) On the gear lever, I have found over the years that a steel lever from something will usually fit on the splined shaft, and if steel, it can be adjusted with heat or a cut and weld job... Proper farm engineering!!!

    On the brake lever, I was wondering about simply fabricating a new tip...

    IKWYM about the seat, what a stinker! I will have more foam put in the front to lift it, as well as the trusty Airhawk! I do like the cutaway you had done at the back, which has the advantage of retaining the seat cover though.
  10. dexterbeef

    dexterbeef Adventurer

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    "That would work but how about replacing fuel filter afterwards? The team 55 roses had filter clogged and even pump failed on the way to Mongolia. Applying sealant pretty much rules out roadside repair."

    Inline filter. I used one of these on my AJP PR5 as it has filter problems on the tank filter. I also have cheap, disposable units on my Honda Falcon as it seemed the right thing to do with operating it in a shitty environment!! One blocked jet was enough....
  11. mrsdnf

    mrsdnf Long timer

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    The brake lever is sorted. Under the rubber boot on the master cylinder is a circlip retaining the pushrod. When this circlip is removed the piston falls free of the cylinder if you are not careful.
    Bleeding the brake system after took awhile.
    dexterbeef likes this.
  12. DavAmb

    DavAmb Adventurer

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    Apr 10, 2015
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    I got a reply to my FB message to SWM M/C Aus, wanting to know who the dealer was, so I passed this info on, but then nothing more for a couple of days. By the end of last weekend I'd had enough and I sent them another message saying so and telling them I don't want the bike any more and I want a full refund. The dealer had had the bike for 5 weeks straight by that time. Yesterday I got this response from them:

    Hi David,
    We have contacted your dealer and contacted SWM spare parts on your behalf. We have requested a timeline for the arrival of the fuel tank and they advised expected arrival is later this week or early next week.


    Not exactly sure how to interpret this. Does it mean that the dealer has not actually done anything? That SWM Aus actually put the tank order in? I've asked for clarification, but nothing back so far.
    Over the weekend I also emailed SWM in Italy. Maybe that's what's sparked the response on FB as I also got an email response from the importer Mojo:

    Good Morning Dave
    Thankyou for your enquiry regarding your SWM fuel Tank.
    Can you please advise the workshop that you have been dealing with and I will provide you with an expected arrival date of your fuel tank.
    Normally SWM order take 2-3 weeks to arrive once ordered.
    Regards...


    So they're saying only a couple of weeks to get the replacement tank. WTF has the dealer been doing for 5 fucking weeks???
    dexterbeef likes this.
  13. AMGrrr

    AMGrrr Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2019
    Oddometer:
    62
    Location:
    Melb Australia
    Thought I'd share my latest adventure with the Superdual.

    Went camping on the weekend and did mostly highway km's to get there. Cruising down the freeway was fantastic.

    Had some interesting issues when taking it for a spin up 4wd tracks. I've replaced the radiator cap with one with a temp gauge on it. It's rated at 1.3bar. On one of the first hills I noticed the temp was about 130deg C. Shortly after that it started bubbling coolant out of the expansion tank near my left foot.

    Shortly after that I noticed that the temp was above 150 deg. I gather this was because the level had dropped so the coolant wasn't touching the temp sensor on the bottom of the radiator cap and this was steam temp. Stopped the bike and angled it to the right and the temp came down (fluid touching the sensor). Limped it back to camp and put about half liter of water in it. It was fine traveling down the freeway to home.

    Got home, removed all of the coolant using high pressure air and replaced it with Evans Waterless Coolant.

    I'll report back when I've had a chance to take it out again.

    Cheers.
    The_Precious_Juice likes this.
  14. Alsbaitco

    Alsbaitco Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2015
    Oddometer:
    10
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I have successfully got a wide ratio gearset into my PR7 (SWM 650 engine) after one failed attempt - thought I could just buy the 3 parts (5th and 6th drive gear is one part) and swap them in. Well, somebody has made a few changes since Husky owned the factory. The gear shafts now have 14 splines instead of 12 (which makes the countershaft sprocket different too) and also they turned the standard 25 mm spline outer diameter down to 24.5 mm inside the gearbox, so even the freewheeling gears had 0.5 mm clearance to the shaft. I put the bike back together again unchanged and did more research. Ended up buying about half the TE630 gearbox bits including both shafts, a couple of additional gears, splined thrust washers and a bush.

    Pulled it down again and this time success! My bike had 15/42 sprockets originally on 18" wheels. To get the same 6th ratio I needed 15/48, but Supersprox didn't have a 48 at the time so I got a 47. Now it is slightly taller in 6th (5000 rpm = 67 mph or 108 km/h) but 2nd is now about half way between the old 1st and 2nd. It just feels like a proper spread of gears now, and doesn't feel too tall in the tight stuff. I would love to say it is awesome (which it is) but it is just what you would expect so feels perfectly normal instead of annoying the hell out me.

    SWM have published ratios for the RS650R and 2018 SDX as being the wide ratio set, but this appears to be false. It is easy to tell - just ride in 5th at 5000 rpm and change to 6th. If the revs drop to 4600, it is the SM ratios. If they drop to 4200, it is the TE ratios. SWM have changed the part numbers for the 5th and 6th gears in their parts list, but until there is evidence the gear teeth numbers have changed, I don't believe it. I still see that tiny 38T back sprocket on the 2018 SDX which it would have difficulty pulling on the TE ratios.

    Maybe I got the only one - Bwahahaha

    (Might have to join the AJP PR7 Australia group to view)
    Colebatch, mrsdnf and porterrad like this.
  15. Alsbaitco

    Alsbaitco Adventurer

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  16. Syanur

    Syanur Been here awhile

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    189
    As a result if I understood correctly your bike is making 108 km/h at 6th gear on 5000 rpm !?? And you were trying to have a wide ratio gearbox... Old TE630 was able to 127 km/h at 5000 rpm by stock(and SMS630 110 km/h).

    And I remembered that SWM said they decided to use only old husqy SMS gearbox ratio, which one was close ratio, for all models. I think this was revealed when AJP asked them to get wide ratio gearbox for PR7.

    But good effort that you put, congratulation. In this forum someone tried this "wide ratio" modify before and faced with the same problems about different gearbox parts than before. I dont understand why did SWM do this...
  17. Alsbaitco

    Alsbaitco Adventurer

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    Nov 24, 2015
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    Brisbane
    Yes, I would also have 121km/h (gps accurate) at 5000 rpm if I ran the original 42T rear sprocket, but I have 47T for off-road. I wanted a lower 1st gear. You can put whatever sprockets you choose, the problem was the lack of range from 1st to 6th.

    Standard PR7 does 105km/h at 5000 rpm
    porterrad and cyclopathic like this.
  18. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    Dec 23, 2007
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    Can anyone measure and post seat size (width/length)? Thanks!
  19. AMGrrr

    AMGrrr Adventurer

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    Location:
    Melb Australia
    20190427_190738.jpg 20190427_190651.jpg
    Installed bark busters. Anyone else have issues with the brake lever touching it?
  20. AMGrrr

    AMGrrr Adventurer

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    Feb 25, 2019
    Oddometer:
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    Melb Australia
    ... or aftermarket levers? I've had a look but can't find any. Anyone point me in the right direction, product and/or part numbers?