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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by tangerine, Jan 15, 2015.
Typical dumb Moose. Will fix tonight on the pc.
Edit. Fixed link.
So you say with these you made 60,000 miles on front brake pad?? (and 30 at rear)
These are incredible numbers...
I do appreciate this thread. I haven't seen my new SD X since I left it at home 2 weeks ago but have a stock of oil filters now, a Koubalink ordered, comfort seat ordered, O2 eliminator ordered and confirmed with a dealer near where I live (he became a SWM dealer after I ordered my bike from AF1) that he has the Arrow map and will load it for me when I return. Plus I am going to try a laminar lip to see if that helps. On my return from Texas, I added black tape on top of the headlight assembly to get rid of the glare. I do appreciate all of this info you guys have shared.
Alot of highway miles but yes rear lasted as much as OEMs
Is rear axle nut 25mm?
According to the user manual the rear axle adjusters are 22 Nm and the rear axle 142Nm.
Another item for the list is the headlight protector from Where's Zed:
Though currently out of stock it would seem.
Had my first test ride of the Superdual yesterday, it was the pre x and t 2017 model. (no ABS, fast idle lever etc), and i was impressed.
I imagine there is some improvement in the 2018 models but the bike I rode seriously pulled hard, I got to 80kph very quickly off the lights and had to check myself more than once. As expected the riding position wasn't Micky mouse, but i expect this to get better with the comfort seat, luckily I'm able to get both my feet comfortably on the ground when stationary too. The foot controls weren't exactly where i would like them, but it didn't help I was wearing my trusty vans while riding instead of boots. I did some test starts of the bike and it still seemed to be plagued with the starting issued reported earlier on. It also felt incredibly light, it wasn't full of fuel but filtering and low speed riding was a piece of piss.
All in all I was pretty happy with it. Very easy to ride.
I think I'll be making an order in the near future.
Did you put all the stuff on the front connector? I thought that the heated gripps might be too much for the connector. But if not I would be very happy so I can install mine
Yes everything is on that connector but I haven't tested under full load not sure which fuse it's on. Grips are relatively low consumption ~40W/3A
So after riding 2 days with full load ~400mi here's my thoughts on SD as pack mule: if you carry heavy load this bike is not for you.
45-55lbs or 20-24kg tops (including bags/cases) if you pushing 100lbs you will have major problems. No it's not hanging; hanging is fine. However kickstand becomes major liability: ground contact poii's too close to centerline, soft suspension could end up at different height; it will either catch up on the ground when you try to extend it or bike would tip over if ground slopes to the left. And not just tip over rear will lift front wheel like fulcrum.
There's almost no margin for error a little ground imperfection and you just can't get off the bike. On top of that passenger peg gets in the way of hooking that little wire loop especially for someone like me short who has to hook it with boot toe lags and can not do heel and attempt to unload suspension.
While bike is perfectly rideable loaded, stopping and getting off could be problematic.. just saying.
Now this wasn't a problem on empty bike
I found hopping on and off from the right hand side easier with a load on the back. As you put your right foot on the right foot peg pull the bike to the right to take the weight of the stand and swing you left leg over.
I've had no issues with the bike falling off the stand.
You probably not carrying 100lbs and not 29" inseam but yeah alot of time right side seems the way to go. Problem is that it's hard to find a 100% flat piece of real estate here even after getting off I had to hold on to the bike to prevent it falling to the left. And getting on it back while keeping it from falling was a major circus act.
Not withstanding the simple fact that to unload suspension to put stand down I need to be flat footed on right side which brings all the hooking problems and the leading edge in stand foot triangle will dig into pavement on attempt. You basically need to lean bike right to get stand pass through lowest point but because it's so close to center line the lean angle could be pretty extreme.
All I can say is it's a bad stand design. I'm going to Bulgaria to drop as much weight as possible and then look into shaving seat and lowering pegs. Perhaps modifying stand if I find place to weld aluminum.
BTW so far I only found 8, 10, 12 and 13mm sockets needed.. also 25mm? for rear axle. What size is oil drain plug?
I'll have to have a look tonight for the drain plug size.
Rear axle is 27mm. I wonder if you have the side stand from the T model on you bike? I'll measure that tonight as well if I remember.
Do you have access to a workshop to remove the locknut from the rear brake pushrod if you go to lowered pegs?
12mm allen key for front axle nut.
Hi everyone, I've found myself bit of a conundrum. Background; In the land of Victoria, Australia we have a restriction on the first 3 years of your motorcycle licence which, among other things, limits bike selection to a specific the power to weight ratio. I'm currently over half way in this restriction period.
My conundrum is that whilst I am able to get my hands on a Superdual under my current licence, it will be restricted to 35kw. This restriction is both mechanical (on the throttle body) and a part of the ecu map. Both of these can be reversed post my restriction, however I will also have to get the bike re-stamped as a full power bike ($$$$). Given this is the case, what are thoughts around getting perusing the SD or maybe looking at an alternate (thinking a new DR650).
Just seeking opinions.
So it's 27? I'll get that and drop universal Gator socket which weights a metric ton. I haven't looked at the lowering pegs yet just know something needs to be done to be able to get off the bike.
If you get a dr650, chances are you will be derestricting it and riding in non lams mode because they feel horrible stock . This will be highly illegal and without any documentation / re stamping of the bike. So no different to , say, having a non swm mechanic remapping your swm and you accidentally forgetting to fit the mechanical throttle stop afterwards. All highly illegal and in the event of an accident you could potentially find the tac inspecting the bike. So clearly these things are only options for competition use.
To be completely honest, by the time you no longer need lams there will be plenty of other bikes tempting your loyalty, and hopefully another learner desperate to buy your swm in lams mode.
@ cyclopathic. Just read your stand issue again and it sounds like your bike is really loaded up with the rear suspension adjusted on the soft side. I dont really have an answer for your problem.
On the oil change side of things you will need the following.
4mm allen key to remove skid plate.
There are two drain points on the bottom of the transmission. One needs a 10mm allen key and the other a 12mm socket. A short 100mm extension on the socket would be needed.
The screen on the left hand side and oil filter cover need a 8mm socket. Again the 100mm extension will be handy to get to the screen cover bolts.
Thanks AT, defiantly no intention of taking off the restriction, been stitched up on insurance once before with a rental car, so have no intention of voiding my insurance on an illegally unrestricted bike.
I think I'll still get the SD, Just a bugger I'm not allowed to muck around with it too much, and really it's only 7kw shy of the full blown model.