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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by tangerine, Jan 15, 2015.
I think it's pretty standard and to accommodate for possibly slightly larger tire
So did planned changes: dropped weight ~10kg, shaved seat, modded kickstand. It's like a different bike now but you still need to watch for bike falling over at stops
Got around to service bike today. So far casualties: lost 2 bolts holding rear/side racks. OEM are 8x25 we replaced them with 8x30. They fit with side carriers and lock washers.. watch for those.
Bled air (there was none). Adjustment on forks was completely out both on damping and rebound. Thought one was broken no it was backed out too much. No wonder guy who tried my bike complained for forks being harsh and to me they felt like there's not enough rebound you get that after hit bouncing feel.
What settings are you running forks at? How many clicks on compression and rebound?
I just had my forks at a suspension specialist and they had the same opinion as a post eaarlier in that they are not worth doing anything to. I dont think they could remove the dampening valves.
The weight oil in them was supposed to be 5 wt. It measured 7.5 wt.
My bodys not what it used to be so had 5 wt put in.
I've just put a cable tie on one fork tube to see how much suspension is being used as mine are real hard and have tons of stiction. Maybe an alignment problem. Just haven't had time to play.
I'm no suspension expert but the forks to me are the worst part of the bike.
New rack installed.
I took mine to a suspension guy yesterday and he reckons the rear shock spring is hard as opposed to most bikes which are too soft.
I'm compressing the rear sag by 50mm (66kg rider)when I sit on the bike and it should be closer to 100mm.
He was reluctant to mess about with the spring to reduce the seat height though and couldn't gaurentee it wouldn't leak after a rebuild and he comes highly recommended from the dirt bike community here.
They use Motul 5w which is heavier than some 7.5w. Here is the chart:
BTW from article I read somewhere the weight of oil doesn't matter that much for shim stacks only beginning of the stroke.. just saying.
Just beware that when you lower kickstand will be a problem.
Also rear travel is 220mm so sag should be 66mm 100 is too much
So I played with fork setting abit yesterday; in completely backed out state the perceived harshness definitely comes not from forks being overdamped but the lack of damping/rebound which causes wheel to oscillate after the hit and being perceived as harsh.
Put damping at the middle at 8 clicks it was much better; need to do the same with rebound and then take it from there
So I have played with settings and 7 clicks on damping and 10 on rebound is working for me; generally 6-8 damping and 10-12 on rebound is close to the best you can get out from this fork. Settings are tested on Ukrainian cobblestone which some would argue are worse than your typical black diamond trails :LoL
Gave my forks (and the rest of the bike) some punishment down the Acheron Way last weekend. At the moment the dirt part of the road varies from being quite decent to corrugated with some deep square holes.
By my re-conning the forks should have bottomed a few times the speed the holes were hit.
The cable tie on the fork shows at least 50mm of travel not being used.
Bike only had me on it at the time and I weigh just over 100 kg's in my riding gear.
Found shop and got extension welded to kickstand foot in Ukraine; guys charged me 300 UAH which is $12 USD. Not exactly right angle but much better than was.
What thickness material did you end up getting welded on?
Whatever they had; about the same thickness as foot on kickstand. Shop specializes in welding aluminum suspension control arms which are easily get shattered on Ukrainian roads so piece came either from control arm or engine pan.
Have you lifted bike on center stand and extended fork completely before taking picture?
Yes. Fork was fully extended on centre stand when the picture was taken.
Just been for a ride down the same road from the opposite direction and pretty much the same result.
Pretty chilly around here now.
My instrument panel/bike went dead.. 3rd time now. Happened after overrevving I suspect there is a bug in ECU program.
Already eliminated battery contacts and don't think it's ignition switch; anyone had similar experiences?
So the whole bike was dead? No power anywhere?
Yes. All electric power is dead (not sure about fog lights) to bring it back you have to turn ignition off/on.
Happened today again while passing
IMHO the fact that you are not using full travel is not necessary a bad thing as long as suspension is working reasonably well. Most likely the spring rate was selected with load in mind.
I just had a wonderful day in Ukraine rode what they call roads which were in worse shape than your typical Jeep trail or anything I have seen on Dalton. Ended up finding a guy to weld rear rack after a day. Don't know if I have used all travel but suspension was working good enough.. maybe not on the same level as ESA on GSA.
On a side note I'm impressed with Tourance Next; for the 90/10 tire I rode sh!t I couldn't walk.