I'll try to post pics but it's the bottom piece at the ending triangle weld on both sides. And the bolts holding rack to subframe keep getting lost. BTW the subframe/pillion peg bolts were not locktited from the factory.
I believe the dealers are loctiting the subframe bolts here on pre delivery. So I was told by my dealer. Sounds like the rack bolts should be loctited as well.
Most definitely. And if side racks were installed they should use longer bolts not stock 25mm. I have 30mm in now.
Hi all, noob question. If I wire in a usb charger to the spare lead behind the headlight is that switched on the ignition? Also, Just got the bike and it's going alright. I've gone with the comfort seat bust still want some more room so am in the process of sorting out a custom. Other bike is a lot of fun, sounds mean stock, and has got nice pull across the rev range.
Hi Everybody, Has anybody had a complete electrical failure on Superdual? Maybe not complete... dashboard is dead, no ignition (it just stopped), can’t hear fuel pump. Starter is running, auxiliary plug is powered, so the battery is not dead...
Yes it's swithchable. With regards to the seat comfort which is standard now wasn't bad; I did some minor shaving (you need drywall sandpaper and staple gun with short staples to put it back. Add shipskeen or airmesh cover and it's as good as it gets no need for custom IMHO
Look for my posts above; on my bike it happens after overrevving. Turn ignition off/on comes back like nothing happened. The speculation is it's a tip over sensor; me thinks ECU bug. Working with factory guys trying to resolve this. Edit: on second thought have you checked fuses?
I added a Givi tank lock today. I had a plate for a Moto Guzzi but these bikes have that goofy angled plastic so I formed a piece of aluminum to contour to it and then screwed it to that black plastic. Came out pretty good. JB
I removed my centre stand which weighs 3.2kg. This brings my total weight saving too 14kg so far although I still have the pannier racks fitted. Here is my solution to oiling the chain and fixing punctures without a centre stand. It was purchased from a local adv rider at a cost of Aus $50
The guys with forks "problems" should just buy a te250/510 300mm cheap old fork and a new spring. It changed my rs650 offroad alot
This is a long shot, but has anyone managed to fit a shorter rear shock and is so who/what did you use. The koubalink isn't enough for me being a short ass.
@ratguzzi fitted koubalink but IMHO I would warn against any drastic rear lowering or at least lower forks for equal amount. Bike just wouldn't wanna turn if you alter geometry. I went through enough hairpins in Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, etc etc to know that. The other issue would be a kickstand it's so close to center line lowering would rend it useless. There is enough foam on the seat to shave to improve stand over clearance IMHO it's better to alter seat and lower pegs before doing link/shok.. probably cheaper too.
IMHO once you adjust compression/rebound to match rear shock they are not that bad I am having more issues with rear shock pumping up.
Unfortunately the koubalink isn't enough. I need it lowered 50mm and of course I would adjust the front to suit. The stand should be a simple cut and weld. I've already had the seat done and it's still as uncomfortable so I now have the comfort seat but this raises the height on the X model. I had a quote from technic suspension for re-doing the front and back $1750 ride in ride out. As far as I'm led to believe there is little point in doing the front as these are pit bike forks apart from reducing the height. P.s I'm currently limping as I missed my footing at traffic lights and had to lay the bike down and twisted my ankle.
I had my forks out and took them down to Suspensions R Us. They gave them back to me after resealing them and replacing the oil with the recommended 5 wt oil. Apart from that they would not or could not do anything else with them. I dont know if they can have a spring change to lower them.