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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by tangerine, Jan 15, 2015.
Yes, the timing chain. Is that the part you were referring to?
certainly. is of the distribution chain that was being discussed. specifically of its duration in time ...
I was just letting you know the part number you mentioned was off a bit.
Contact dealer, importer and let them know.
Progressive is using KBB for listing and if KBB still doesn't listing that's entirely on importer shoulders. I have contacted them and made them aware back in June if it isn't fixed by now it's their fault.
No, its not an "issue" of clutch. Its a normal behaviour of clutch when its cold, especially if its +250cc. Its about oil, clutch itself, starting motor power or battery power etc.. but its a very common thing on bikes. The reason of famous "starting motor failures(burn!)" on DR800 was understood that ppl starts engine on 1st gear with pulling the clutch. Since clutch cannot disengage the gearbox enough when its cold (even if u pull clutch fully), the force causes the starting motor to burned after some times. It happens easier with the bigger CC engines and bigger/stronger clutch mechanism and 600 cc in not small at all in this manner.
Nice info about manufacturer... BTW I believe Husqy 610 had a design issue which cause chain to wear earlier. I can't explain how but I believe the quality of chain was not the problem. What I would like to add; I just read (couple of days ago) a PR7 on a RTW with 70k miles on and working properly other then need of gasket replacement. 70k miles man, com'on!! I wouldn't think to change the cam chain @20.000 km, no way...
That may be but I did have loss of fluid to the point you couldn't move bike in gear when it was cold
Hello i just bought a new superdual x. and i would like to set it lighter. Where can i get one of those pipe?? so i just take of one of the final exhaust??
Regards from Spain.
So I have that screeching lunching sound when changing from neutral to 1st after the start.. is it the clutch rivets?
but with the loss of hydraulic clutch oil how did it end? are you using Johnson & Johnson oil in the clutch pump?
Clutch is fine now doesn't feel like there's any air in the system. Looks like loss was through the cover not tight enough and the cover on front brake MC needs to be tightened up as well.
With regards to original question it is not clutch wear as clutch doesn't slip and works fine while moving
EDIT' found cafehusky thread on washers:
I'd be interested to see what your clutch hub spring washers were like on a strip down as I was told the washer issue on the Husky had been fixed on the SWM.
You seem to be having more issues than the rest of us put together cyclopathic.
My first 1000km service required the oil strainer to be replaced and a new fork seal.
The connection of the horn failed also, but that's not a huge deal.
Fuel consumption wasn't great for the first 1000, but there was quite a few twisty and / or dirt roads.
9300mi and it will be at least another 1600mi before I get to dealer. Hope it will hold up.
Some guy on FB did a trip from Ásia to europe , 30000k, dont think he Changed the Chain (gonna ask)
Anybody having issues with the display module? My trip1/STP1/AVS1 is showing “0” even after resetting and removing bike battery. Any ideas on how to resolve this?
Also, anyone know of any online sites in the US to order SWM parts and accessories?
Yes, i have the same issue. My deealer will replace it Düring the winter time...
Never used the trip1/STP1/AVS1 as I could not work out what it all did.
I figured out the STP1. It’s a basic stopwatch.
Anybody know the dimensions for the valve shims? I read on the cafehusky site that the older Husky TE/SM-630 bikes take the standard Japanese bike shims. I was thinking of ordering a kit for the next time I do the valve check.