New (to Me) 2000 Kawasaki W650

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by The Jerk, Oct 11, 2009.

  1. Caesars_ghost

    Caesars_ghost Air Cooled.

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    Another awesome write up. Thanks!
  2. abhiram

    abhiram Been here awhile

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    Dope writeup!
    Btw, those handlebar vibrations you mentioned at first, are they less now?

    My bike has similar symptoms, but I am yet to check if there is any play in the forks. So curious :hmmmmm
  3. acap650

    acap650 acap650

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    Great and thorough technical step by step by The Jerk. Have you ever considered writing tech manuals? (Maybe that's what you do-I haven't read all your posts or bio)

    You said if either of the bearings or races are bad replace both, I take that to mean replace the complete bearing - two races and rollers. I do not think it is always necessary to replace both bearings since in my experience only the lower bearing which supports all the weight of the front tends to develop a notch. If there are other defects, rust, pitting etc. on both, then by all means replace both.

    I have done this on a BMW F650GS twin, a bike which tends to notch head bearings prematurely (mine was notched at 12K miles). On this bike there were notch lines on the lower bearing races but the upper bearing looked new so only the lower bearing was replaced. BMW has a novel method for preloading the bearings that involves three steps and requires a torque wrench, easy because bearing preload is done with a 10mm allen bolt. With only the lower clamps torqued and the front wheel installed, initially torque adjuster bolt to 25nm, rotate wheel left to right three times, back off bolt 60 degrees, then apply final torque of 10nm. I do this at every oil change.

    On my W650 all I ever did was check and adjust so that the front wheel, off the ground, would barely fall right and left. At 30K miles bearings were still smooth with no center notch. Some have drilled and tapped the steering head for a grease fitting. That would entail filling the entire space between the bearings with grease. That seems like overkill to me and would result in seeping grease in hot weather and stiffness in the cold.
  4. Sniperx

    Sniperx Long timer

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    Oil leak...

    Anyone ever change the oil tube orings? I think it’s leaking from there. From reading the service manual....it’s quite involved. Any ideas?


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  5. The Jerk

    The Jerk Bring us some fresh wine!

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    I should have been more clear; what I meant by that was that when replacing a bearing, one should replaced both the bearing and its corresponding race. Some people try to take the easy way out by replacing just the easy part (the bearing) while leaving in the old race because it's difficult to swap out.

    Your point about the lower bearing usually getting the worst of it is well-taken; however if I had to go through the trouble of replacing one of the bearings, while I was in there I'd do both. If you must replaced, be sure to source good quality bearings. I think you can still get the OEM ones from Kawasaki though bearings are generally standard sizes. I found the OEM ones to be Koyo brand made in Japan. Other good quality bearing manufacturers are FAG and SKF.
  6. The Jerk

    The Jerk Bring us some fresh wine!

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    Yes, seems to be. I took it for a short test ride in the 50-60 mph range where I was having issues before. There was no sign of the vibration there. Another symptom I had experienced was a head shake when decelerating through about 40-30 mph if the bars were held very loosely. I haven't ridden since because I was waiting for a replacement upper fork clamp bolt to arrive. Need to do a longer ride to be sure.
    abhiram likes this.
  7. The Jerk

    The Jerk Bring us some fresh wine!

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    Looking at the manual it doesn't look THAT bad - looking at the "bevel gear case removal" procedure starting on page 4-45. As long as you are just looking to replace the o-rings and not doing any further disassembly of the bevel gear system.

    It appears you can do the job without disturbing any of the cam gear backlash settings which would be the big concern.

    You would want to have all the parts you need on hand - it appears there are 4 o-rings for the bevel drive shaft and it appears there are additional o-rings within the bevel gear case, as well as a gasket for the bevel gear case. Also you have to replace the e-clip and snap ring with new parts.

    There are two additional o-rings on the parts diagram but it's not clear to me that you can get to them without further disassembly of the bevel gear drive. Those are 92055-1593. So I guess the question is whether it's one of the upper or lower o-rings that are leaking or whether it's one of the 4 in the shaft cover. If the latter, that looks pretty doable. If the former, that might be more of a challenge. I can't tell from the manual, but perhaps you would be able to get to and replace those other 2 o-rings once the cam gear driveshaft is out and the bevel gear case is off the engine.

    Parts you would need to do the 4 o-rings in the driveshaft cover:

    92055-1617 - o-ring, x4
    92033-1307 - snap ring, x1
    92033-1306 - snap ring, x1
    11060-1890 - gasket between bevel gear case & crankcase, x1
    670D1507 - o-rings in bevel gear case, x2
  8. Sniperx

    Sniperx Long timer

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    Thanks for the reply, but I’m talking about the oil feed and return tubes that go through the head at the rear of the cylinder. I think I’ve got to take the cam off to do it....


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  9. The Jerk

    The Jerk Bring us some fresh wine!

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    Oh man I totally misread that one. Oh well there's a parts list for anyone with a leaky bevel drive tube :lol3

    That said, taking the cam off isn't so hard.
  10. TBilly

    TBilly Billy

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    Still not sure on the Colour scheme here....?

    Attached Files:

  11. mattsz

    mattsz moto-gurdyist

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    I was gonna say, "it's grey." But I'm guessing that's not what you meant...

    aside: how did you attach those files - they appear to be stored in an advrider location called "attachments," which I wasn't aware was available...
  12. Sniperx

    Sniperx Long timer

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    Does the yahoo page even work anymore? I can’t join or see anything. Why is anyone using that antique anyway....


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  13. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate Supporter

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    Works fine for me . . . but then I'm a Luddite . . . .
  14. millenbop

    millenbop Adventurer

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    I'm too young to use it.
  15. millenbop

    millenbop Adventurer

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    I like the colour scheme, it's understated. (Personally, I'd get rid of a lot of the extra accessories though).
  16. BravoFox

    BravoFox Twin With a Kick

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    Ahem...
    It's not the color scheme which is the problem man, it's the windshield and top case and TV screens-like mirrors that just kill all the W beautiful lines and proportions. She looks like a family piece of junk as seen on the roads of many third world countries... :fpalm
  17. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

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    I'm too old to use it.
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  18. Caesars_ghost

    Caesars_ghost Air Cooled.

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    ...pretty sure that’s an insult to third world pieces of junk. I’d take a ratty two stroke 125 over those mirrors, any day.
  19. BlunderBolt

    BlunderBolt Been here awhile

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    It has at tasteful turn signals. Smaller than stock but not so small as to be tastefully unsafe.
  20. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate Supporter

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    Some of us use our bikes as tools, not merely toys. Though one could be a wee bit more tasteful in their selection of tool boxes . . . . I got lucky and found some well-used Craven's here in ADVrider.

    I often use mine to commute to the MSF range. Lunch and coffee on one side, rain gear on the other, and the teaching bag in the top case. And I've used the little dear for demos in the MSF Advanced Course.