New (to Me) 2000 Kawasaki W650

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by The Jerk, Oct 11, 2009.

  1. The Jerk

    The Jerk Bring us some fresh wine!

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    So part of this weekend's project was to remove the Kawasaki Clean Air (KCA) system from the bike. In more modern terms, this device is known as secondary air injection.

    The purpose of KCA is to inject extra air into the exhaust system just after the exhaust valves to help burn any unburned fuel that made it out of the cylinders. This has the effect of reducing the emission of unburned hydrocarbons as well as facilitating the conversion of carbon monoxide in the exhaust into carbon dioxide.

    This air injection is accomplished by means of a vacuum switch valve which is perched atop the valve cover. Vacuum is teed in to the carbs and a large hose carries filtered air from the airbox through the valve and to ports at the front of the cylinder head. Under the ports are reed valves which open in response to pressure fluctuations in the exhaust and admit fresh air to the exhaust to facilitate continued combustion. The reed valves admit air flow only one way so that exhaust gases can't be forced back upstream into the system.

    "This all sounds great" you say, "so why disable it?"

    First reason to disable it is that this system is responsible for the annoying popping you get through the exhaust on closed-throttle deceleration. The second reason is that if it stops functioning properly, it can cause driveability problems such as inability to obtain stable idle, greatly reduced engine power, or abnormal engine noise (these are all quoted from the W650 owner's manual). So being in favor of more simplicity and less complexity, I elected to remove the system.

    To Kawasaki's credit, this system is nicely designed as a totally passive system with no electrical or other moving parts. It works purely on vacuum and fluctuating air pressure. That said, removing it means one less thing to go wrong and helps clean up the look of the bike a bit as well.

    Not all W650s were fitted with this system, which means that parts are available from Kawasaki to convert the bike. Someone posted the following parts list somewhere and I'm sorry but I don't remember who to give credit to. You will need:

    Kawasaki p/n 11060-1886. You need 2 of these - gaskets (if you don't buy the shorter screws below, you'll need 4).
    Kawasaki p/n 11065-1135. You need two of these - these are the replacement injection port covers without the fittings for the air injection.
    Kawasaki p/n 92005-1017. One of these. This is a 3-way vacuum fitting to replace the 4-way fitting under the tank.
    Kawasaki p/n 92066-1389. One of these. This is the plug that fills the hole in the airbox for the pipe that runs to the KCA vacuum valve.
    Kawasaki p/n 92150-3775. Four of these. These are the bolts that secure the port covers to the cylinder head. They are 6x18 while the USA versions are 6x22.

    These are obviously non-US parts so I don't know if you can get them from a US Kawasaki dealer. I bought them from CMSNL in the Netherlands.

    EDIT:
    Part number searches on U.S. retailer websites have identified the following parts are available as U.S. parts - presumably they are used on other U.S. Kawasaki models:
    92150-3775 - bolts
    11060-1886 - gaskets
    92066-1389 - plug
    92005-1017 - vacuum T fitting

    So it looks like the only parts you have to buy with the Euro are the port covers.


    Removing the system is pretty straightforward. First, remove the seat, tank, and left side cover:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then on top of the valve cover, you see this guy:

    [​IMG]

    Disconnect the hoses that go from the vacuum switch valve to the ports at the head, to the 4-way vacuum tee, and to the pipe from the airbox.

    Pull the pipe straight up out of the airbox and then remove the grommet from the hole. Replace the grommet with the plug.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Remove the vacuum switch valve; nothing holds it in place.

    Remove the 4-way vacuum tee with hoses attached from the carbs. Take the hoses off the 4-way tee and put them on the 3-way tee, then reinstall.

    Get out your 5mm Allen socket and remove the two reed valve caps at the front of the cylinder head.

    [​IMG]

    Be aware when you remove everything, there are two gaskets per side - one on each side of the reed valve. The gaskets may stick to the caps or to the cylinder head. Make sure you have all the gaskets accounted for before you put stuff back together. You should have this:

    [​IMG]

    Now you are ready to reassemble with the new parts. Here is where I ran into a little snag. Whoever provided the parts list for this job neglected to mention that you need four shorter screws if you don't want to re-install the reed valves. The screw holes in the head are only so deep, and if you attempt to re-assemble without the reed valves, the screws will bottom out. Later research has shown that there is a different length screw used on the Japan-spec model without KCA. The part number for the correct screw has been added to the parts list above. Since I didn't have shorter screws and since I didn't have four gaskets, I used my two new gaskets and scrounged the best of the old gaskets for the other two. Then I put the whole thing back together with the reed valves in place but with the new blank caps. Like this:

    [​IMG]

    Torque those bolts to 12Nm only! Don't overtighten!

    That's pretty much it. Just slap the tank back on and you're good to go. This is the pile of crap that you have just removed from the bike:

    [​IMG]

    I also replaced the front brake pads with the EBC FA231HH pads. That job was so simple I didn't bother to take pics. Haven't gone for a ride yet on the new pads but I expect them to be an improvement based on my experience with them on my old Triumph Tiger.

    2015 EDIT: Addendum to this post here.
  2. Scrivens

    Scrivens Long timer

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    I made up some very thin alloy blanking plates which fit on the flat side of the reed valve and re-fitted the original cover unit. I put a large rubber stopper (end of a walking stick) over the end of the T-pipe and turned it in to towards the head. (The pipe spigot swivels.) I plugged the air box hole and removed the hoses, but the EFI on the W800 throws an error if the vacuum unit is disconnected so I plugged the openings and left it in the loom.
  3. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate Supporter

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    Very nice tutorial, TJ. Thanks!
  4. The Jerk

    The Jerk Bring us some fresh wine!

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    So this is odd, but in a good way:

    Took first ride tonight after removing the air injection system. Noticed that the bike was idling about 100-200 rpm higher at each point of the warm-up cycle than it was with the KCA connected. Also noticed a subtle but perceptible improvement in idle smoothness.

    Waited until it fully warmed up to readjust the idle. At full temp, it was idling about 300 rpm higher than it used to at full temp. I readjusted it with the knob.

    Knowing how the KCA works, it seems like it should no effect on idle speed at all ie injecting air into the exhaust after the exhaust valve seems like it should have no real effect on anything. But here we are. I made no other adjustments or modifications to the engine save removing the KCA.

    Anybody have any thoughts as to why that is?

    Also this was the first ride with the new EBC HH front brake pads. They haven't even bedded in yet and already I can feel a big difference. The initial bite is better and the lever feels firm where the stock pads felt a bit mushy. I can already recommend this upgrade.
  5. Bar None

    Bar None Long timer Supporter

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    I removed SAI pretty much the same way you did and did not notice any difference in idle speed,etc. Maybe you fixed a minor air leak by removing all the plumbing?
  6. The Jerk

    The Jerk Bring us some fresh wine!

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    Yeah that's the only thing I can come up with too.
  7. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

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    Alright, so I received the cables and seat today and got to work on the shorter throttle cables. I had a hell of a time removing the throttle cables from the little bracket down near the carburetors. I had to pull as hard as I could to get them out of the retainer bracket. Once I got the new throttle cables threaded in, something didn't feel right. The throttle was not smooth and snappy. It felt rough like they were binding somehow. My girlfriend and I who were doing the job together decided to take it all apart again and give it a go tomorrow. Hopefully the clutch/brake line will be a smoother job. Any tips for the throttle cables?

    I also found that the 7/8" to 1" handle bar reducers/shims weren't thick enough to hold the bars securely. I had to use 3 half-circle shims on each clamp to get it to hold tight. I'll have to purchase another set of 4 to tackle the clutch/brake brackets.
  8. rxkea

    rxkea Adventurer

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    [​IMG][​IMG]



    Dual purpose tyres, sump guard, s/steel high exhausts, small tail light, shorty alloy guards, /7 BMW headlight, longer rear shocks,low bars.
    Its fun and looks a bit less like Grandads bike.
  9. Scrivens

    Scrivens Long timer

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    Route the cables first and make sure they (ie the whole cable, not the inner cable) can be pulled backwards and forwards freely where they have been run, then connect the inners to the throttle, bolt it back up, turn it a few times to check the inners move smoothly and to get any twists out the inners and lastly connect the inners to the carb lever. Check you haven't pushed the rubber grip end into the edge of the switch block as well as that will stop the throttle moving cleanly.
  10. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Transient

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    Sounds nice, but as they say, it didn't happen without pictures. :D

    Photos please.
  11. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

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    Cool, thanks. I'll try that method this evening and report back. I went into the job thinking it was going to be fairly easy due to "the jerk's" photo guide on page 20. Sadly, I spent a good long while and got nowhere.
  12. Bar None

    Bar None Long timer Supporter

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    Yep, that's the law around here.:D
  13. hockeygoon

    hockeygoon Been here awhile

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    I put BT45s on, but I can't recall whether they were H or V. I'll take a look tonight when I get home. This one change made such an improvement in the bike, it was like I changed bikes. Ride improved, handling was better, stopping vastly improved.
  14. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

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    When you guys removed your throttle cables from the carbs, did you find that you had to pull very hard to get the cables out of the retainer bracket? I felt like I had to pull way too hard to the point that I might damage something.
  15. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

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    Also, for you guys who are using 7/8" handlebars. When you shimmed them, did 7/8" to 1" shims work for you? I picked up these off of amazon and they did not work:

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00844HFNE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

    There was way too much play in the bars still. I ended up putting 3 half circles on either side of the bar clamps and that worked, but now I don't have enough to finish the job.
  16. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate Supporter

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    I bought my shims from a local bicycle shop, who ordered them from Quality Bicycle Parts, a wholesaler. They are called "Problem Solvers" and come in several sizes. IIRC, mine were sized for BMX clamps. They're knurled, like the ones in your link, but the knurling was much more prominent--and they've never slipped. Again, IIRC, they came in about 1" lengths, so had to hacksaw them to length. Two packages did both clamps and both brake/clutch perches.

    Here's the link to Quality Bicycle Parts website. http://www.qbp.com/ Unfortunately my network at work won't let me pull up the catalog browser, but maybe you'll have better luck. But since they're a wholesaler, you'll have to go to your local bike shop to order, if you wish.
  17. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

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    Do these look like the ones you picked up?

    http://www.amazon.com/Problem-Solvers-Handlebar-25-4mm-length/dp/B001F2Y2RO

    Thanks so much for the tips!
  18. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate Supporter

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    Looks like Amazon did you proud! Those are the shims I used. (Now, how to keep the local shops in business . . . )?
  19. zwish

    zwish Adventurer

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    Hah! I always hit up the local bike shops first. I'm an avid cyclist as well as motorcyclist. Definitely better at working on bicycles! Thanks again for the info.
  20. The Jerk

    The Jerk Bring us some fresh wine!

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    It should not be any real chore to pull the cables out of the bracket unless there is some major corrosion between the bracket and the metal sleeve around the cable. I can't remember exactly because it was a long time ago, but I can't remember if you need to remove the cable ends from the throttle on the carbs before you can remove the cables/sleeves from the bracket. In other words I don't remember which step comes first.

    Try removing the cable ends from the throttle linkage on the carbs first, then removing the cables from the bracket.

    EDIT: I just re-read my post back on page 20 and you do indeed have to remove the cables from the throttle linkage before you can get them out of the bracket.