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Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Aaron.S, Oct 21, 2016.
I have one too and love it
It's my second one. The zips started to go on the first one so I gave it to someone in Georgia. MSR gave me a good discount on the second so it ended up costing me about 230.
Back on the road again.
That was the longest break in the nicest place I've had on my journey out of anywhere.
I got contacted yesterday by a guy from Singapore and another from Scotland that had followed or heard about me.
They were both on a tour doing the loop from Vladivostok to Magadan. 15 days.
They wanted to meet up so I went and had a beer with them.
Tha tour costs 6500!
The tour company that just started up and this is their second tour.
The first one last month a guy got killed by hitting a truck head on.
I got to the ferry about 8am and they were all there.
The guy who was running it was Russian and really nice. We chatted for a while and he said if I needed anything their support vehicle would help me out.
I was listening to the briefing on the ferry and he was telling the group they were trying to get to the next ferry ( barge) by 7pm. If not they would camp and wait for the morning.
After hearing that I thought I was going to be in for a massive day.
Once over the otherside they took off and I went to the market, got extra gas and ate.
I caught them up after about a hour and passed them all then never saw them again.
I was sitting on 100k plus often on the gravel. The last hour before the ferry was slick and raining so back to 75.
The dust in the morning was insane.
If you got behind a truck you were screwed for a while. A couple times I nearly came to a complete stop as I couldn't see the ground in front of me.
I got to the barge at 2.20. Roughly 350k.
I only stopped for gas and even then ran in to pay.
It poured down on the barge and the last 40k into Khandyga.
It was hard to see with rain and mud on the visor and goggles . The gravel was thick and forming ruts which sucked!
The finger hurt all day but the stitches held and only a tiny bit of blood.
I'm kinda glad I gave it a couple days.
Well 6.15 am so I'm getting up to pack. Big day today so I'm going to make like a Russian and fuckofskie
Great update; thanks for this pics. I'm starting to see why Russians drink.
[QUOTE = "NoelJ, post: 38162123, member: 362926"] Отличное обновление; спасибо за это фото. Я начинаю понимать, почему россияне пьют. [/ QUOTE]
I'm Russian and I live in Russia but I don't drink any kind of alcohol even beer , so you shouldn't think that all Russians drink alcohol. Also my friends they are against that .
I don't; it was just a bad joke. That said, the Russians I know are very skilled drinkers, I'd go so far as to say they have it perfected. I think the stereotype comes from the statistics we see about how many early alcoholism deaths occur there, which isn't funny at all.
Russia is the largest country in the world and your pictures give us a glimpse of the vastness. Stay safe
Safe travel... thanks for sharing.
Another early start after a decent sleep but I had to wait at the gas station because it didn't open until 8.30.
550k to Ust-nera today.
It was cool and cloudy to start and then it just got cold and rained on me for a couple hours.
I stopped midway for gas and got caught by a group of local kids in a couple Vans touring around.
Selfies taken by all and they wanted to practice English so I got a bit held up( all good though) and so I decided to eat at the little cafe there.
The rain cleared and I had a good afternoon of top gear fun gravel roads with only a couple trucks to get around in by that stage dry dusty roads again.
There is one pass over to Ust-Nera and the sun came out so I even got to see a couple mountains.
Such a varied day weather wise and I rolled into town about 4.30.
It was a pretty big day considering the roads were all mud or gravel but I enjoyed it.
I'm starting to get a little sentimental when I see the road signs to Magadan with the numbers slowly getting smaller.
I keep thinking I only have that far to go and this continent will be finished and it will be a true round the world ( Portland to Magadan) inside of my rtw journey.
The bike just clicked 122000k.
I've decided to do a different route the day after tomorrow so today I have a shorter 400k day stopping in Susuman instead of pushing through to Yagodnoye.
( if open as it was closed a few days ago) will add a day.
Did you bypass the infamous Vitim bridge crossing?
Aaron - I’ve been enjoying your ride and report as a 350 EXCF owner. Had to laugh at seeing your bike on the ferry with the big GS’s and their $6500 tour. Just curious - what would you ballpark for your costs on this RTW? Could be useful info for those of us contemplating doing something similarly outrageous and awesome one day. Feel free to disregard if it’s too much of a pain to tabulate up.
I think you’re doing/have-done something rather significant with this trip in that you’ve shown these “dirt bikes” really are able to go much, much farther than people think (or are/were lead to believe by KTM and others). Ride on!
That's the BAM
I think I work up with my period. Just one of those days. The weather was supposed to be fine for days so I packed my rain pants away.
I shouldn't of.
I got a late start because I didn't realize about the time change.
Nothing was really workkng.
Ear plugs kept annoying me. Couldn't put my glove on without dropping it.
I came to a landslide that held me up which I wasn't that bothered about
The road in general wasn't that fun it was pretty potholed and hard.
I had heard there was a gas station at around the 300k mark but there wasn't.
I was riding from Ust-Nera to Susuman and it was a 390k gap.
My fuel light came on and I was hoping to have a last 40k of smooth road but it was the worst section of the lot.
I ran out of gas with 3k to go.
I had extra so no worries I just was curious how far I could get once my fuel light came on. 50k.
Then I found the only hotel and no parking so bike is outside and I'm on the 5th floor no lift and far corner away from my bike.
Room wasn't cheap considering it didn't have a shower and no hot water in the sink. About 25.
Town doesn't have any data for phones you can only make calls. Crazy huh. It wasn't that small a town.
I ate some shit food and went to bed about 9 thinking I need to sort my attitude out and at least I will have a early start in the morning.
I'll leave that post at that and you can call me a whiney bitch.
The next post is better trust me.
That's a kiwifruit from NZ. Ha
Depends where you are and how scum you want your accommodation to be.
Fuel, food accommodation are your 3 costs for the day. Booze is a sneaky but can add up fourth if you like it like me.
Roughly I went with 20 for each per day.
Bike maintenance is a decent chunk on top.
That's why people who know go slow. I'm not great at that. If you find somewhere cheap by a beach to stay camping stay a extra day or so and then you don't have fuel cost for that day. Time can be your biggest enemy when trying to cut down on daily expenses. Some I've met might stay a week and not move if it's 10 dollars a night to camp. Then it's just food and beer.
I get bored and want to move on.
I got a really early start and I was at the gas station by 6am.
I filled up my gas bag as well and I had that 40k of shit road ahead of me because from Susuman I had decided to take the Tenkinskaya route to Magadan which is less used than the final road of bones road but I needed to backtrack.
I also heard the tenkinskaya had better scenery as well.
When I got to the turn off there were a couple signs and I thought it might mean it was closed.
I heard the road had washed out about a week ago but since I didn't have cell service in Susuman I couldn't check.
What to do?
Fuck I turned around and rode that horrible 40k back to the gas station.
I showed someone the photo of the sign and they said okay. It is open.
So I turned around and you guessed it rode back to the turn off. Now it was 7.30am leaving the gas station.
I started riding and then about 50k in (roughly 585k to Magadan from the turn off) I came to a intersection and there was a barrier and a red sign which I know meant closed.
Damn was I really going to have to ride 100k back to the gas station just to start the 600k plus to Magadan.
F that I decided I would risk it.
Maybe it's just shut for cars.
I rode around the barrier into the unknown.
After about a hour I still hadn't seen anyone and I was getting a little concerned. I was calculating when my point of no return would be with gas but I think was pretty good having extra gave me about a 500k range.
Then I saw a landcruiser and I stopped. Two Russian guys got out and after a bit of sign language etc and I made out there were 3 obstacles but there were ways around them.
I kept going and came to the first one. No worries a little water crossing to the side of the wash out. The second was easy someone had put a couple tress in the hole to ride over.
Then the third. The whole road washed out.
I walked to the left through trees and some swamp/creek but didn't see any signs that anyone had by-passed it.
I spent about 20 mins thinking and looking around and I thought I found a possible route but to get back up to the road I didn't like my chances and I would have to take my bags off and drag it up a few feet because I didn't think I was going to make it.
Not worth getting stuck alone I thought so I started to head the about 160k back to Susuman thinking my day was done.
Then about 2 k on the way back the guys in the landcruiser came along I stopped and they waved me to follow them.
They showed me a 4x4 track that was the work around that I couldn't see.
From there the bike was on autopilot and I just flew doing 100 to 120kmh at times when the road would let me.
I heard there was a hotel at the 385k mark where people stay but screw that it looked like a dive of a village and I was feeling in the zone so I just hammered it to Magadan.
I felt like that day in Mongolia where I just couldn't crash.
I made one mistake when trying to get my camel back hose sorted and nearly overshot a corner off
a bank but that was about it.
The last 80k was pavement into Magadan and I couldn't stop smiling and patting the tank on the bike saying good girl.
Sounds silly but it really was quite an emotional last 80k thinking about what I've gone through to get here.
Massive day though after my 80k screw up I did nearly 700 and 600 of that was all unpaved dirt,gravel and mud.
So there you have it.
I made it to Magadan and I got to smell the sea breeze again.
Great set of updates @Aaron.S! Really glad to hear the finger isn't bothering you that badly, imagine it's a pia every time you need to take your gloves off or deal with anything on your left hand. How is it operating the clutch?
Really sweet shot of your bike with the sun on it in your first update, and yeah - funny to see your bike amidst all those big bikes. That's a big chunk of change to plunk down for a tour, likely doesn't include getting there and back either. Can't imagine having someone killed while doing that, woof.
Hope you're able to leave the hotel in that 2nd town in the mirror and the next one is much better. Nothing wrong about complaining during travels, it's not all rainbows and effin' unicorns.
Keep the knobby side down man, crazy to think you left PDX so long ago and now you're close to Magadan.
PS - nice pic of the kiwi...lol.
what a great day!
Yeah, you probably would have noticed that pot hole though if you'd still been fooling with your hose.
F*cking awesome @Aaron.S! Dude, how cool to notch that one in your belt. And even better that you overcame a fair amount of adversity in that last leg to make it there; especially the washed out road with the hidden 4x4 track. So cool those guys showed you a way around and you were able to hammer down and make it.
Quite the contrast in scenery with you next to the water compared to the other places you've stayed along the way.
Congrats man, can't wait to read what comes next
Good job. Beats hell what you can do if you just don't give up.