(no longer) Utter Tiger 955i n00b

Discussion in 'Triumph Tigers' started by Duckworth, Apr 24, 2016.

  1. Dyn Blin

    Dyn Blin Irn Bru Lover

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    Sure. Any wire from that loom will see some kind of voltage drop. Between the routing, potential for (even lightly) corroded connectors, age and gauge of wiring, it could account for such a reading. I'd trim that wire, too

    One you find the connection for the volt meter, it would be quick to check for any drop, but while you're in there, might as well reconnect the voltmeter to the battery directly.
    #81
  2. Duckworth

    Duckworth Taking the high road

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    When I got home from work, as an experiment I popped the voltmeter out of the dash and touched the leads directly to the battery. It reads an entire volt higher there. I'm guessing this thing is wired to a headlight or some other high draw thing that's making it read low.
    #82
  3. Pastaman

    Pastaman Been here awhile

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    That's good new!
    #83
  4. Duckworth

    Duckworth Taking the high road

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    I'm trying to figure out where to attach it. If I attach directly to the battery, or to the back of the powerlet plug, it's on all the time. Not sure if I want that.

    What is the usual location for wiring in the voltmeter on these bikes?
    #84
  5. Dyn Blin

    Dyn Blin Irn Bru Lover

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    If quiescent draw is an issue, you might consider one of these: http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php .

    No affiliation, although I have purchased a couple from him and his service is top-notch- and he's a Scotsman. It draws 1 MA in darkness. If you keep your bike on a tender, there's no issue (and the tiger accessory port is a great location to do so). If you're riding, the load is so low you'll never see issues (tops out at 8ma)

    Alternatively, you could tie it into a switched circuit as close as possible to the battery, and minimize the drop.

    Edit-IIRC, fuse #4 & #8 control switch circuits for brake and instrument panel illumination.
    #85
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  6. Duckworth

    Duckworth Taking the high road

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    For now I wired the volt meter directly to the battery, but with a fuse up near the instrument panel that I can pop out easily if I want to shut it off. This will do until I can figure out how to arrange something with a relay. I didn't want to hack into the wiring.

    *ETA:

    I left the volt meter on all night to see what would happen. No voltage drop, since it uses so little power. I imagine I can leave it on if I'm riding the bike regularly, but will unhook it or use a tender if the bike is going to sit for extended periods.

    The real good news was today's test ride running errands around town. 13 volts at idle, 14.2 when on the move! :clap
    #86
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  7. cjmadura

    cjmadura Been here awhile

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    Hey I remember our back and forths - good to see your posts. The Tiger was a lot of fun while it lasted, as well as reliable as a rock.
    I have to admit the K1300S is the most impressive bike I have ever owned, from the build quality to the innovative designs to the ridiculous performance. Keep in mind I'm not a BMW-Homer, as I don't like most of BMW's offerings, but this bike is something else.......and I LOVE the one-year-only paint scheme, Lupine Blue as opposed to Caspian Blue :D.
    #87
  8. Pastaman

    Pastaman Been here awhile

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    Installed the Heed crashbars yesterday. May have spent more time removing the packaging around the bars than installing them :D
    Instructions are clear enough.
    Below are some infos I was looking for because I did not have the right keys:
    -OEM engine mount bolts: Torx T55 and 17 mm nut.
    -Heed engine mount bolts provided: Hex allen HW10 and 19 mm nut.

    You better have long & thin fingers and the right wrench because the nuts behind the radiator are a pain. Installed one side after the other, keeping the bolts a bit loose, everything went fine and I tighten everything only at the end. In the service manual the torque for the engine mount bolts is 80 Nm so this what I used for the new bolts. Not easy to do the torqueing while holding the nut in the back but feasible. The OEM engine bolt on the left side had an extra 4-5 mm spacer/washer compared to the right. Did not put it back with the new bolt.

    Result: perfect fit, great look (no the black paint was not scratched, just bugs!), my knees are far from the bars (a good 10 cms). At that price I have t say I'm impressed by the finish and quality. Ultimate test is to drop the bike but I'll wait for that :-)

    Two bonuses I see with these bars: a great frame to place a homemade oil radiator guard + aftermarket side bags (have to do some shopping to see what would fit)



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    #88
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  9. Duckworth

    Duckworth Taking the high road

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    Those Heed bars are awesome! Very substantial looking. Much better than the ones on mine (whatever they are), though they are better than none.
    #89
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  10. Pastaman

    Pastaman Been here awhile

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    For sure, some is better than none! At 280$ CAN (shipment included) this is a great & useful investment.
    #90
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  11. wah64apache

    wah64apache Older Than Dirt

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    Where did you get them? Also, I run Aerostich Tank Paniers (Large), have been for 20 years. Two sizes available, beautifully designed, multi adjustable, wear like iron. Not cheap, but worth the money in convenience, centralization of weight and ease of use.
    Cheers, Frank
    #91
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  12. damurph

    damurph Cold Adventurer

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    They are made in Poland. Ship worldwide. I put a set on my Girlie last fall. They remain untested and I am ok with that.
    #92
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  13. wah64apache

    wah64apache Older Than Dirt

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    I'm with you on that damurph. Thanks, cheers, frank
    #93
  14. Pastaman

    Pastaman Been here awhile

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    Great design & nice looking tank panniers!
    #94
  15. Duckworth

    Duckworth Taking the high road

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    So as I mentioned in an earlier post, my voltmeter which is now wired directly to the battery is on full-time. After some observation, it seems to go down about 1/10th of a volt every 2 or 3 days if not ridden. That's acceptable. I don't think I'll bother with a relay. If it sits longer, I will pop out the inline fuse I was smart enough to install up near the dash.
    #95
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  16. Kiwi Mo

    Kiwi Mo Long timer

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    I have one of these and cant speak highly enough of them.
    Oxford Oximiser.
    #96
  17. Duckworth

    Duckworth Taking the high road

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    After some miles and some experimenting, I've decided that the MRA Vario windshield on my Tiger sucks (for me). Turbulence and noise no matter how I adjust it. Putting on lower, smaller mirrors helped a bit but I want smoother, quieter air.
    #97
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  18. Kiwi Mo

    Kiwi Mo Long timer

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    I went down the road you are on with my 955i shield.
    One day I took it off completely - what a relief from the buffeting.
    I ended up refitting it later and cut it down to about 40mm above the black shading on the oem screen.
    Air - yes, but it was clear unmolested air.
    You could make a module out of some corrugated cardboard, fit it to the bike and go for a ride with a large pair if scissors and gradually cut it down to suit yourself. Then when you have the optimum for you attack the screen and whack off. I put some masking tape on both sides. Marked the cut line. Then cut it off with my jig-saw with a fine metal blade. Finish off with some sandpaper wrapped around a small block of wood.
    #98
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  19. Duckworth

    Duckworth Taking the high road

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    I read where some folks completely removed the spoiler from the Vario screen and got good results, so that's my next step.
    #99
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  20. wah64apache

    wah64apache Older Than Dirt

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    I have the Cee Bailey +8" with winglets, stock mirrors and hand guards, large tank bag and Tank panniers. I'm 6'. I can see over it. Get some bugs on the crown of my helmet but very few on my shield in a days riding. Nolan N104 Evo helmet. No Buffetting at all. Run saddle bags and large tail bag mounted to act as a back support. Works well for gas mileage, get 48 pushing medium hard. Cheers, Frank