So.. Tomorrow came quickly, and the ragged crew (Steve, John, Martin and me) that had formed over the weekend was ready for the long haul up the Dempster, destination Tuktoyaktuk. Or atleast we thought we were ready, I believe none of us had any idea what lay ahead. A roughly 900km (600m) unpaved one way street, and from what we heard impasseble when wet. The weather forecast looked promising for the next couple of days, with only a slight chance of rain. I had stocked up on food for at least five days, figuring I'd need five days up and down. First day, to Eagle Plains, second day to Inuvik, third day up to Tuk and back to Inuvik, etc.. But you know things go, something with best laid plans ... We all topped off our tanks and canisters at the Klondike/Dempster junction and turned our wheels north to Eagle Plains, 370km further. The 16 liter tank on Little Red should in theory get me there, but to be safe I did some dumpsterdiving the day before and found a 2 liter can of chemical toiler cleaner. Washed it out and filled it up with gas. First stop was the Tombstone Interpretive Centre, after a quick look around we were on our way again. The road so far was perfectly smooth, the views were awesome and we were making good time. Although our bikes were very different we still rode together at the same speed most of the time. Holding a good distance on the dusty bits, and slowing down or stopping every now and then for everyone to catch up. It's not a race.. getting there and back safe, that was the idea. Although sometimes the road begged for a little racing, but thinking about how long it would take for help to get there made us slow right down. Our lunchstop on the halfway point to Eagle Plains. Notice how I stashed the makeshift thin plastic gas canister in my topcase, that would come back to bite me later on. Onwards.. we all agreed 80km/h was a decent speed, so that's what we did most of the day. Apart for a few sections with rocks, the road was as smooth as a paved road thanks to the continues work of the maintenance crews. Arriving at Eagly Plains this guy proved the point too, if a fully loaded street bike on street tires can do it, anyone can. After setting up camp we ran to the restaurant for a well deserved meal and to get away from the endless amount of mosquitos. We weren't the only ones heading up the Dempster that day, but we luckily made it without issues. I think two or three other guys weren't so lucky and had to be airlifted out. Warning us once again that even on a perfect day like this one, things can go south quickly. Darren (@outdoorsman) told us he had a nasty off in one of the wet sections under maintenance, but was fortunately able to ride on. In the morning the mozzies were out in full swing, and even a protective head net was useless. They will find a way in, or through.. Best remedy is to just ride! And riding we planned to do, the weather forecast showed rain for the following days. So the plan was to ride from Eagle Plains all the way up to Tuktoyaktuk and back down as far as we could. With 24 hours of daylight our biggest hurdle would be fatigue. Steve (@squiffynimrod) blasting past! A big milestone along the Dempster is the Arctic Circle sign 30 minutes north of Eagle Plains. Again stunning scenery, there really is nothing around for hundreds of miles! The sign is also just past the halfway point on the route to Tuk. Another milestone was entering the Northwest Territories. I always try to divide a long ride into smaller sections, makes it manageable for me atleast. First get to the Arctic Circle sign, then another hour to the NWT-border sign, then a bit further to the first ferry and Fort McPherson. Everything was going exceptionally well, the bikes were fine, the weather was fine, the road was fine. John was leading, with me and Martin following closely and Steve was not far behind. We were just about to pull over for a break when a woman in an oncoming truck began waving frantically. Weird I thought, why is she so enthusiastic to see acouple of motorcycles here. John and I pulled over and looked back to see were Martin and Steve were. Seeing a silver BMW on the side of the road, the woman waving to us suddenly made sense. Oh fuck.. ''Steve's down'' I yelled to John. We raced back and there he was laying on the ground, not moving. ''Steve, Steve, are you awake?'' I had no idea what to do, I was hoping for him to be okay. it took a couple of moments to catch his breath but then came the''I'm okay''. Can you move your fingers, and feet? By now the lovely people that had warned us in the first place had pulled out a chair and slowly Steve came back, fortunately he was very sore but otherwise alright. Looking at the skidmarks on the gravel, he somehow highsided after the rear came around and was thrown clean off the bike at considerable speed. We righted the bike and dragged it back onto the embankment, assessing the damage. Which there was a fair amount of, it still ran though. We strapped and ducktaped everything together as best as we could, it had to do. We lacked enough full to turn around to Eagle Plains so the four of us first had to continue to Fort McPherson to refuel and reassess. Remember that 2 liter canister in my topcase, when I went for the ducktape I found out it had sprung a leak and literally everything was ruined. Five days worth of food, my raingear, shoes, all sorts of things, drenched in gasoline. Not the brightest of ideas I must admit. When we arrived at Fort McPherson it was clear that Steve couldn't continue, now the adrenaline had worn off the pain was coming. He would ride back to Eagle Plains accompanied by Martin. John initially said he would ride back with them too, but when I said that I would continue to Tuk alone he wouldn't let me. I was stubborn enough to do the whole thing alone, but riding with John was a much better experience. We all fueled up, and then said goodbye. Good luck guys, and see you in Dawson City! Thus it was only John and me left for the ride to Tuk. Around 5pm we rolled into Inuvik, grabbed some food at the grocery store and had a fantastic meal at Alestine's (or the yellow schoolbus). It had been a long tiring day, and my original plan was to set up camp in Inuvik and take one whole day to ride to Tuk. John insisted we'd continue to Tuk to beat the rain, and since we had full bellies and all the daylight in the world we rode on. Those last 150km to Tuk must be of the gnarliest stretches of road on the planet, so much loose gravel, imagine just one thick layer of small loose rocks.. John was having a hard time too and there were many times I was certain he was going down only to save it at the last moment. I probably had an equal amount of 'oh shit' moments.. But, in the end.. we were there. Well, that was after I dropped the bike midcorner riding into town. The long haul to Tuktoyaktuk was complete, we rode to the Arctic Ocean. There's not much around in Tuktoyaktuk, and prior to finishing the last stretch of road from Inuvik to Tuk in 2017 the town was only accessible by means of an ice-road in winter times. This far north, the nature is very impressive though. It really feels like you are on top of the world. Since rain was imminent the next day, we decided to ride as far as we could while the conditions were still good. That meant we rode well into the evening, back past Inuvik and after a 720km (450m) day, we finally pitched our tents at 1am. With the sun of course still shining bright.. We were knackered, but what a day it was!