Northern Europe June/July 2019 with BMW Motorrad Days.

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Odd Arne, Sep 1, 2019.

  1. Odd Arne

    Odd Arne Polarbear Supporter

    Oct 14, 2012
    Årjäng, Sweden
    As I like to travel alone, I call these trips I do every summer "The Introvert rides again".

    This summer, my wife again granted me two weeks leave to go on a motorbike trip.

    Normally I avoid continental Europe in July and August, for two reasons. Firstly, it's often very hot, between 30 and 40 C is not pleasant in outfit bought for Scandinavian climate, and secondly, it is when most europeans have their summer holidays, making many places very crowded.

    But since one of the objectives of the trip was to attend BMW Motorrad Days in Garmish-Partenkirchen, then I had no choice as to when to go.

    On the route, I will drive through Harz, Kyffhäuser, Kesselbergstrasse that are all well known to MC-riders, I will stay at Bratwursthotel in Germany and a hotel with VW-collection in Poland. Stay tuned!

    Day 1, June 30:

    Just transportation from my Home in Årjäng, Sweden (S) to Oslo, Norway (N) where I will board the ferry Colorline M/S Color Magic to take me to Kiel, Germany (D).

    A lot of bikes to board, and one lady with a "manual" bike:

    My cabin, a "Color Suite".
    Whoever came up with the idea that travelling with motorbike shall be uncomfortable?

    The trip of tha day, as recorded by BMW Connected:
    Screenshot_20190630-165015.png Screenshot_20190630-164956.png
    View form my cabin:
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  2. Odd Arne

    Odd Arne Polarbear Supporter

    Oct 14, 2012
    Årjäng, Sweden
    The Introvert rides again, Day 2, July 1. :

    Kiel (D) to Stolberg in Harz (D):

    A day that was relatively eventless. Riding a GSA, the Autobahn is not first choice, so I stick to the Bundesstrassen. They are much more scenic and nice, but it slows one down considerably. Speed limit is 100 km/h, but they go straight through every town and village, one every 7-8 kilometers, and often through farmland with farmers driving tractors. In addition there is a lot of roadwork and detours (umleitung) and even the occasional accident, so it may test your patience sometimes

    For instance, when I was 9 kilometers from my hotel, the road was blocked for roadwork, and I got an umleitung for about 40 km. This being in the Harz-area this would normally be nice riding with curvy roads on nice asphalt, but I was tired after 400km in around +28C so I was unable to fully enjoy the nice road.

    But then I arrive in Stolberg. What a place. This town (that once was former East-Germany (DDR) have survived two world wars and 40 years of communism. Neither acts of war, (it's in a narrow valley where bombs could not reach), nor communistic architects, did anything to change it and it is still authentic with the fachwerk houses.

    DEP Kiel 1013.
    ARR Stolberg im Harz ca 1820.
    Covered distance 409 km.

    DSC_1268.JPG DSC_1267.JPG DSC_1266.JPG DSC_1265.JPG DSC_1264.JPG DSC_1263.JPG DSC_1262.JPG DSC_1261.JPG DSC_1260.JPG DSC_1273.JPG DSC_1272.JPG DSC_1271.JPG Screenshot_20190701-194921.png Screenshot_20190701-194835.png Screenshot_20190701-194817.png
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  3. Odd Arne

    Odd Arne Polarbear Supporter

    Oct 14, 2012
    Årjäng, Sweden
    The Introvert rides again.
    Day 3, July 2. :

    I'm not going very far today. I have booked a room at a very special hotel, more about that later.
    But as I said, travelling on the German Bundesstrassen isn't very fast. But so much more to see.

    My BMW Navigator and I are not always the best of friends. I think it is difficult, it sometimes chooses illogical routes. But today it was all on my sides. I have set it to avoid Autobahn, and so it does. And today it took me to some fantastic curvy roads. After I left the Harz-area, with it's nice MC-roads, it took me over Kyffhäuser-hill. I had never heard about it before, but later I learned that the road over Kyffhaüser is well known to MC-riders. Then I went through Weimar and after that Ilmtal which is also a stretch of roads that follow the terrain. After that came Thüringer Wald with valleys and hills so high they almost deserves to be called mountains.

    One disadvantage of setting the navigator to avoid Autobahn, is that it will lead you straight through city centers instead of the motorway around, and most often you realize too late. So it took me straight through the centers of Weimar and Nürnberg that both seems to be after some kind of world record in showing red lights in every street crossing. Very nice in +28C!

    DSC_1278.JPG DSC_1276.JPG
    Kyffhaüser Strasse:
    DSC_1275.JPG DSC_1274.JPG

    Anyway, after Nürnberg it was just a short ride to Rittersbach where I would find my hotel for the night. The Bratwurst Hotel!

    Now there are theme-hotels and there are theme-hotels. This one really makes the most of it. A few years ago (butcher, sausagemaker) Metzger Klaus Böbel decided to build a new metzgerei. In the old building he opened a hotel witch is dedicated to the (sausage) Bratwurst. Mr. Böbel is a man with professional pride, humour and self Irony, as one can easily see in the pictures.

    Rittersbach where the hotel is situated is a small town of about 20 houses. There are absolutely nothing else to do there for a tourist, than enjoy the bratwurst and beer. There wasn't even mobile telephone coverage! Who would have thought that in the middle of Germany? Fortunately the hotel had perfectly working WiFi.

    DEP Stolberg im Harz: 0948
    ARR Rittersbach: 1800
    Distance covered: 359km

    DSC_1280.JPG DSC_1279.JPG

    My hotelroom with Bratwurst Wallpaper:

    A bratwurst hanging from the ceiling for a late snack.

    A Bratwurst cushion:

    Something to sit on, in the shape of canned Bratwurst:

    View from the hotel room window:


    Meat hooks for your clothes:

    Soap bar in the bathroom:
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    Filet knife as signs to guide you around the hotel:

    The host, Hr. Böbel in the reception:

    The restaurant. There was (almost) only wurst in some kind on the menu:

    Screenshot_20190702-204943.png Screenshot_20190702-204927.png
  4. Odd Arne

    Odd Arne Polarbear Supporter

    Oct 14, 2012
    Årjäng, Sweden
    The Introvert rides again.
    Day 4, July 3.:

    Today I'm heading for Garmisch-Partenkirchen where I will stay for a few days for the BMW Motorrad Days. But first I will be enjoying a ride in Bavaria.

    After the breakfast at Bratwursthotel, (guess what was for breakfast), I took off in a day with much more pleasant temperatures than the previous days. It did get up to +28C this day as well, but most of the day it stayed around +22.

    For a while my route followed the touristic route "Romantische Strasse" that take you through beautiful towns and villages, in some it appears as if time stopped one or two hundred years ago.

    Most of the day was spent on roads in the pleasant foothills of northern Bavaria. South of München the landscape changes an one enters the Alps. And I really enjoy riding in the Alps!

    The navigator was set to take me to Kochel am See, where the legendary Kesselbergstrasse starts (or ends, depending on which direction, of course :-) ) The road is very popular for motorbikes, so popular that the local population and authorities have had enough of excessive speeding and loud HD's with open pipes, so they have closed the road for motorbikes in the weekend, restricted speed limit to 60 km/h and patrol frequently by police. But today is wednesday, so at least its open. A lot of motorbikes and cars on the road!

    After Kessebergstrasse it's only about 40km to my hotel.

    DEP Rittersbach: 0950
    ARR Garmisch-Partenkirchen: 1600
    Distance covered: 287 km

    Breakfast in Bratwursthotel, notice the slice of bratwurst to decorate the coffee mug!:

    The foothills in northern Bayern



    Landscape gets a little bit more photogenic in the alps:


    And I arrive at the hotel, Hotel Staudacherhof. Chosen because (besides being a very nice hotel) it's 10 minutes walk til city center and 15 minutes walk to Hausberg where BMW Motorrad Days take place. And here I'm gonna stay for the next 4 days:

    Attached Files:

  5. Odd Arne

    Odd Arne Polarbear Supporter

    Oct 14, 2012
    Årjäng, Sweden
    The Introvert rides again!
    Day 5, July 4. :

    It's still one more day until BMW Motorrad Days opens. The town is already filling up with BMW motorcycles of all kinds. Around 40.000 visitors are expected. Obviously, those who have arrived think the same as me - let's use this fine day before everything begins, and go for a ride in this magnificent landscape.

    After breakfast I mount my bike and take off. From Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Ga-Pa) I head north towards Oberammergau (where the christmas song "Silent Night" supposedly originates from). Just before Oberammergau I turn left for Ettal. Ettal is a valley, or kind of mountain pass. Not very demanding roads, but a narrow valley surrounded by high mountains. It ends at Plansee.





    At Plansee I turn left towards Tannheim and then the 6 km long serpentine road dow to Bad Hindelang.

    Tannheim Valley

    View over Bad Hindelang. In the distant valley to the left is Oberstdorf.
    Lunch break in Bad Hindelang

    After lunch I turn back and follow the same route I came for a while. But instead of going back in Ettal, I head for Elmen in Lechtal, where I turn on to a mountain pass that is new to me; Hahntennjoch. Narrow roads, lots of twists and turns on the west side of the summit at 2000 m above sea level. On the east side, going down, the road is wider and not that twisty. The pass road ends in Imst in Austria.

    The serpentines east of Bad Hindelang:

    Hahntennjoch Pass:

    A group of British riders I followed for a while:
    DSC_1323.JPG DSC_1322.JPG

    Coming down in the valley at Imst, the temperatures had reached +30C. It could have been time for a short break, but it's to hot. It's cooler to keep going, so I turn northbound for Fernpass. Fernpass is another well known pass for MC-riders. I've never rode it before, and after Hochtennjoch it was kind of an anticlimax. The roads are too wide, the turns are too "kind" and there is a lot of traffic with cars and trucks. But it has a spectacular view of Zugspitze, the highest mountain in Germany. I didn't take a picture of it here, though. After Fernpass it is only a short strech back to Ga-Pa and the hotel.

    Screenshot_20190704-171041.png Screenshot_20190704-171023.png

    DEP Hotell Staudacerhof 0945.
    ARR Hotell Staudacherhof 1546.
    Distance covered 239 km.
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