NORWAY- Prague, Tallinn, Nordkapp, fiords, Oslo

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Doogle, May 13, 2019.

  1. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    6-11-2019 Honningsvag, Norway Nordkapp Vandrerhje Hostel $61 263 miles

    It was 38 degrees when I left Inari. I almost needed my heated vest. But I didn't want to waste time hooking up the wiring. Almost no rain today. But I rode through a couple snow showers. They didn't last long and didn't make the road slippery. But visibility was tough for a while. Most of the day I was riding next to lakes.

    Last night I looked up the size of the fuel tank. It's 14.7 liters. 12.5 liters is the most I've put in so far. There have been plenty of gas stations so far. So, with 2 of the 6 level indicators still lit, I decided to keep going. Maybe 1 less stop and 1 less receipt to give my wife. Suddenly 1 more light goes out. And there aren't many cars on the road. When the empty light starts flashing, the odometer goes to zero. It indicates how far you traveled since going on reserve. I went over 60 kilometers. I pulled into a self service station. It wouldn't accept my credit cards. The next station had out of service on the handles. I went inside for help. A man came out and said only 1 premium pump had fuel. I put in 15.1 liters. I always want to know how much a tank really holds. There aren't many vehicles that I haven't run out of gas.

    I didn't realize when I got to the Norway border. I didn't see a sign. I saw a sign that said "nothing to declare". And another sign that may have said toll. No gate and nobody to stop me. Maybe I'll get another ticket.
    Riding in Norway
    View attachment 1728130

    Yesterday I booked 2 nights at this hostel. It's about 20 miles from Nordkapp. I'll go tomorrow. The receptionist asked if that was my destination. Then she looked at a paper and said it should be open. What ??? She said it can be dangerous with high winds and snow. And it was closed yesterday. There was a picture on the wall, of 2 big trucks laying on their sides in some snow. I assumed it was taken around here.
    My hostel
    2019-06-12  Honningsvag , Norway  1_1560353680204_23.JPG

    They have 2 free washers and dryers here. I managed to use a washer before quiet time. Clothes are drying in my room on the radiator.
    #41
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  2. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    6-12-2019 Honningsvag, Norway Nordkapp Vandrerhje Hostel $61 41 miles

    I went to bed at 1130 pm and finally to sleep at1am. I woke up at 430 with a stiff neck from my ear to below my shoulder blade. I may have slept a little more after that. But I got up and took a very hot shower at 630. It may have helped some. It was difficult getting dressed for breakfast. It's only 20 miles to Nordkapp from here. With 3 bad ailments at the same time I thought riding may be more dangerous than I wanted. I could only turn my head about 20 degrees to the left. The receptionist told me to go to the doctor. And that a motorcyclist had to be air lifted after a wreck yesterday. I walked towards downtown about 1 mile then came back to the hostel. I passed these racks of drying fish.
    2019-06-12  Honningsvag , Norway  3_1560353658024_11.JPG


    I decided to ride rather than stay another night. There were 12 bikes here when I left. Now just my lonely bike.
    2019-06-12  Honningsvag , Norway  5_1560353669293_17.JPG

    I had no great expectations about Nordkapp. It was just a destination I wanted to see. It's an alpine area with snow in many places. Not much when I got closer to the sea.
    2019-06-12 Nordkapp, Norway   5_1560353643074_3.JPG

    The globe that has become the focal point was erected 30 some years ago. People can identify with that landmark. It cost $34 to pass a gate. I was there about a half hour.
    The globe
    2019-06-12 Nordkapp, Norway   1_1560353653759_8.JPG

    2019-06-12 Nordkapp, Norway   17_1560353638893_1.JPG

    2019-06-12 Nordkapp, Norway   11_1560353678488_22.JPG


    Yesterday I had breakfast in Inari. Last night I didn't want to get back on the bike to look for a restaurant. So on my way back fromNordkapp I was going to stop and eat. I saw very few places. I stopped at a bar that had food. I may never get a Christmas present again. I had rein deer. And I loved it. That and a "Mack" draft beer cost $35. The alcohol driving limit in Norway and many other European countries, is .02.

    Then I went to a pharmacy. I bought what ever the pharmacist said may help me. It's been 3 hours since I took the first pills and my neck is almost pain free.

    Tomorrow I will ride south- of course. I don't know where yet. I'll look at my list later this evening.
    #42
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  3. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    Geologically, a fjord or fiord is a long, narrow inlet with steep sides or cliffs. Most of the water I passed appeared to be lakes to me. But I am from Ohio.
    #43
  4. norseXL

    norseXL Northman

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    Location:
    By a fjord, pining...
    Looks a lot like seaweed on the shores to me...
    #44
  5. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    I went to Grand Canyon 20 years ago and it was closed. A prisoner had escaped.

    A few years ago I went to Australia. Ayers Rock was closed.

    Finding a closed gas station is always annoying.
    #45
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  6. a100man

    a100man Adventurer

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    So ailments and exorbitant beer prices aside - how are you enjoying it?
    #46
  7. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    The body usually repairs itself. Not quickly enough though. I drink a beer in every day country I go to. Sometimes more. I planned on spending most of my time in western Norway. I have great expectations. I always enjoy my trips.
    #47
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  8. MichaelJ

    MichaelJ Long timer Supporter

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    One would hope so. Otherwise one would need to stop making trips. Unless one was a masochist, in which case...
    #48
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  9. Chickenstrip

    Chickenstrip Long timer

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    Wow, Honningsvag is very remote! Are you carrying backup gas with you?

    Enjoying your report. Thanks!
    #49
  10. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    6-13-2019 Nordmannvik, Norway Hytte cottage $34
    254 miles
    I was on the road by 9am. It was sunny and about 50 degrees. There are a lot of tunnels in Norway. Today I went through a couple that were 4 miles long. And they are much colder inside. So far they have had decent lighting. I rode a few hours and considered stopping at Alta. It was a very nice town. But I thought it was too early to stop. And it has been quite scenic riding.
    2019-06-13 South of Alta,Norway 13_1560449984126_7.JPG

    2019-06-13 South of Alta,Norway 3_1560449976287_2.JPG

    I stopped to take a picture of some reindeer. They don't mind cars driving pass. But they're on the move as soon as someone stops. They were into the trees before I could get a picture.
    2019-06-13 South of Alta,Norway 5_1560450001242_18.JPG


    I stopped to take a picture of the water and mountains. There were 2 bikes stopped a ways farther. I walked off the shoulder of the road about 50 feet to take my pictures.
    2019-06-13 South of Alta,Norway 8_1560450009028_23.JPG

    When I returned to my bike, one of the motorcyclist motioned me down. I rode down to where they were, off the road at a picnic table. They commented about my Polish license plate. They were from Poland. They were fixing coffee and soup and offered my some. Okay.
    2019-06-13 South of Alta,Norway 10_1560449999287_17.JPG

    They are going the same direction I am and asked if I wanted to ride with them. Okay again.
    We were up and down in elevation and had some great views.
    2019-06-13 South of Alta,Norway 15_1560450016434_28.JPG

    Later we stopped at a hytte. Some hyttes are free huts or buildings to sleep in. The one we are staying in cost about $34 each. But it is nice. I get one of the two bedrooms. Mariu gets the other. Maciej will sleep on the couch. Mariu rode somewhere and brought back some food. Bread, hotdogs, and potato chips. We must be related. So far they are covering my cost since the hytte doesn't take credit cards and I haven't found an ATM to get cash. I offered my euros. But they said tomorrow would be fine.
    Our cabin.
    2019-06-13 South of Alta,Norway 27_1560449988486_10.JPG

    2019-06-13 South of Alta,Norway 18_1560449978142_3.JPG

    2019-06-13 South of Alta,Norway 21_1560450015060_27.JPG
    #50
  11. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    6-14-2019 Ballangen,Norway Ballangen Campground $45/each 239 miles

    This morning after breakfast, I rode about 1 mile down a side road to a place Mariu and Maciej saw last night. It was a German military fortification built during WWII.
    2019-06-14 9_1560548637317_7.JPG

    2019-06-14 1_1560548635407_6.JPG

    My bike parked at the bottom of the hill the big guns were mounted.
    2019-06-14 15_1560548633818_5.JPG

    Then we were on the road at 11am. We rode 2 ferries that cost about $10. We were almost last getting on both. And it was a squeeze for the last couple cars.
    2019-06-14 16_1560548660643_21.JPG

    2019-06-14 18_1560548647627_14.JPG


    We rode through Narvik before stopping here in Ballangen. I think we over shot. We are heading the Loften Islands tomorrow.

    We are in a campground. But we are in a nice cabin.
    2019-06-14 20_1560548630997_3.JPG
    2019-06-14 24_1560548643236_11.JPG
    #51
  12. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    6-15-2019 Svolvaer, Norway Berg Apartments $97 167 miles

    Mariu made breakfast again. I'll hate to part ways with him. Kick stands were up at 10am. We did back track 2 hours as punishment for not routing more carefully. We stopped at a road side marker where the Poland and Norway armies fought the Germans.
    2019-06-15  Svolvaer, Norway 1_1560632553400_7.JPG

    We stopped for a herd of reindeer blocking the road. Reindeer are the same as caribou. These don't look like the ones I've seen in Alaska. So I guess there are different types of caribou.
    2019-06-15  Svolvaer, Norway 3_1560632555221_8.JPG

    2019-06-15  Svolvaer, Norway 5_1560632560465_11.JPG

    2019-06-15  Svolvaer, Norway 6_1560632545611_3.JPG


    Maciej took his boots off and walked out to this island. I kept my feet warm.
    2019-06-15  Svolvaer, Norway 9_1560632559001_10.JPG

    We stopped for gas in Svolvaer. I found a hotel. They have less time to get home. So they rode farther south on the Lofoten Islands and planned to tent camp. Svolvaer is a cute small town. I'll probably stay here tomorrow also. I walked into downtown to get something to eat. After waiting too long in 2 different places I went to a grocery store and bought food. There is a kitchen area across from my room. At home, if someone wanted to order an $18 hamburger and a $5 Coke, they would get better service.

    My room tonight
    2019-06-15  Svolvaer, Norway 11_1560632551885_6.JPG
    #52
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  13. DCrider

    DCrider Live from THE Hill

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    Great trip, my wife is Polish so a ride report with mention of Poles always grabs my attention. I guess no regrets at this point for not packing camping gear?
    #53
  14. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    I have been camping. The camping here doesn't require camping gear. I need to look up their definition of camping. I'll post pictures of my camp site for tonight and tomorrow night, later.
    #54
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  15. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    6-16-2019 Toften,Norway Toftenes Sjøhuscamping $77 102 miles

    I wanted to stay in this room another night. But at 1030am it was already booked. So I looked on Bookings.com for a place off the beaten path. I chose Toften. It is off the beaten path and another day of back tracking-50 miles this time.RRiding towards Toften.
    2019-06-16 Toften, Norway 1_1560706758039_6.JPG

    2019-06-16 Toften, Norway 3_1560706755738_5.JPG

    I start to question my decision after not passing a car for 10 minutes. I know my chain and sprocket are starting to wear. But they will be good for some time.

    I stopped in a small town when I thought I was close. It took a couple loops around before I found a person to ask. I would need to back track 2 miles. It was difficult to see down over a hill. The owner said he is the 4th generation owner.
    2019-06-16 Toften, Norway 7_1560706765841_10.JPG

    2019-06-16 Toften, Norway 9_1560706763441_9.JPG


    It's a good size room with a nice view.
    2019-06-16 Toften, Norway 10_1560706750443_2.JPG

    2019-06-16 Toften, Norway 11_1560706748051_1.JPG

    I decided to sign up for 2 nights. I need a day of nothing to see if my back pain gets better. My rib pain has steadily improved and not much issue. The back-difficult getting out of bed. It improves greatly after a hot shower and walking around a while. In the evening after laying down a while, it's touchy again. I'll go to a doctor when I get to a bigger town if it isn't better next week.

    They have a nice restaurant here. I just had pork chops and a $10 beer. I don't think my pork chops were pig.
    2019-06-16 Toften, Norway 14_1560706760162_7.JPG

    Outside seating.
    2019-06-16 Toften, Norway 15_1560706761626_8.JPG
    #55
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  16. Saso

    Saso Happily sporting the DRD4 gene Supporter

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    Just caught up with you - wonderful RR! Thanks for sharing your journey.
    #56
  17. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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    I too have back problems, now get out of the Other side of the bed ,after puiling it out Twice(?) On the regular side.
    #57
  18. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    I had my back operated on many decades ago. This is unrelated, Doctor Doogle thinks. After a shorter riding day yesterday and lots of sleep, I feel better. Today is the first significant improvement in 2 weeks. My plan was a do nothing day. If I feel this way again tomorrow, I think I might not need a second opinion from a licensed doctor.
    #58
  19. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    2019-06-17 Toften, Norway again. Same great room. 19 miles

    After a good night's sleep I rode in to Alsvag-3 miles. They have 1 small store. I kept going another 6 miles to Myre. Wow. 2 gas stations. I found the grocery store-Rema 1000. They are everywhere in Norway. I'm as worthless in a grocery store and kitchen as my wife is in the garage. Here's my $35 worth of shopping. Other than the $4/can of beer, food costs in the grocery are reasonable.
    2019-06-17 Toften, Norway  & Myre4_1560783038339_2.JPG

    I took a couple pictures on the way back, because that was all the riding I planned for the day. This is a rest day for my back.
    2019-06-17 Toften, Norway  & Myre2_1560783040969_4.JPG

    2019-06-17 Toften, Norway  & Myre3_1560783039524_3.JPG

    2019-06-17 Toften, Norway  & Myre1_1560783036222_1.JPG

    I bought some muscle relaxers. 3 bottles of beer."Fatol" beer. If I don't post tomorrow, it was or I don't have WiFi.
    #59
  20. norseXL

    norseXL Northman

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    By a fjord, pining...
    Fatøl is draught beer, the word øl is the same as ale, fat is a cask.
    Those beers you bought is a decent lager, but the brands Aass or Dahls are better...
    #60